Waterway Oasis blowing fuses

[Option]

Hello, I noticed my pool sweep was not running this morning and when I checked the equipment, the Waterway Oasis controller was dead (not even any light from the LEDs on the circuit board). I flipped the breaker which didn't help so I checked the 2A fuse located between the transformer and the circuit board. It looked like it might have been blown so I swapped it for another 2A fuse (Time Delay like the original) and when I flipped the power back on, it immediately blew the new fuse. I'm guessing it might be a bad board or transformer but I was wondering if anyone here had any other ideas or suggestions for anything else I could try to further diagnose the issue. Any help would be greatly appreaciated.

 

[Jimrahbe]

O,

What does the controller operate?? Disconnect whatever it controls and see if the fuse still pops... If the fuse no longer pops than most likely what is being controlled is the problem.

If the fuse still pops with the load disconnected then...

If the transformer plugs into the main card, just unplug it and see if the fuse still pops.. If it does, then the transformer is most likely bad, if it does not pop, then most likely the board is bad..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[1poolman1]

Hello, I noticed my pool sweep was not running this morning and when I checked the equipment, the Waterway Oasis controller was dead (not even any light from the LEDs on the circuit board). I flipped the breaker which didn't help so I checked the 2A fuse located between the transformer and the circuit board. It looked like it might have been blown so I swapped it for another 2A fuse (Time Delay like the original) and when I flipped the power back on, it immediately blew the new fuse. I'm guessing it might be a bad board or transformer but I was wondering if anyone here had any other ideas or suggestions for anything else I could try to further diagnose the issue. Any help would be greatly appreaciated.

Disconnect the valve actuators. When that fuse blows it is usually because of a bad actuator or shorted cord on one of them.

 

[Option]

O,

What does the controller operate?? Disconnect whatever it controls and see if the fuse still pops... If the fuse no longer pops than most likely what is being controlled is the problem.

If the fuse still pops with the load disconnected then...

If the transformer plugs into the main card, just unplug it and see if the fuse still pops.. If it does, then the transformer is most likely bad, if it does not pop, then most likely the board is bad..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you!

I disconnected everything from the board except the air temp sensor (because I overlooked it) and the transformer. The new fuse blew again once power was restored.

I need to find a store with more fuses now but in the mean time, I think I'm misunderstanding something about your next recommendation. The fuse is on the board so if I disconnect the transformer, how will the board get any power to potentially blow the fuse? Doesn't the power for the board come from the transformer?

Thanks again for your help!

 

[Option]

Disconnect the valve actuators. When that fuse blows it is usually because of a bad actuator or shorted cord on one of them.

Thanks for the suggestion. I disconnected nearly everything from the board and a new fuse blew again (see above for more details).

 

[Jimrahbe]

The fuse is on the board so if I disconnect the transformer, how will the board get any power to potentially blow the fuse?

O,

Sorry, I did not realize that the fuse was on the board...

Jim R.

 

[Option]

O,

Sorry, I did not realize that the fuse was on the board...

Jim R.

No worries. So we now know the issue is either the transformer or the board itself? I was able to find the transformer for sale online so I might give that a try. I don't think Waterway sells replacement boards so if its not the transformer then I'll probably have to buy a whole new Oasis unit.

 

[Jimrahbe]

O,

It is most likely NOT the Transformer.. But if it is cheap, it would be worth a try..

If you have a voltmeter, you can test the output.. Not sure what voltage it should be, but you might be able to tell by looking at the side of the transformer. I suspect it would be in the 12 to 24 volts AC range.

Documentation for your specific unit might tell you.

It appears that there are various controller models. What specific controller do you have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Option]

Thanks for the suggestion of testing the transformer. I do have a multimeter and based on this attached pic, it looks to me like it should be putting out 24 volts?

I think there is only one Oasis pool controller but the have different part numbers depending on what additional external equipment is included (wifi modem, actuators etc). I believe the part number for mine is 770-1004-PSW and I've attached the instructions/install manual if that helps.

 

[Jimrahbe]

O,

With the fuse removed or blown, test between the Blue and Yellow wires and you should get about 28 volts AC (no load...) Do not test each wire to ground, that is not how a transformer works.. Low voltage should not cause the fuse to blow, so unless you get like 50 volts or more, the transformer is good.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Option]

O,

With the fuse removed or blown, test between the Blue and Yellow wires and you should get about 28 volts AC (no load...) Do not test each wire to ground, that is not how a transformer works.. Low voltage should not cause the fuse to blow, so unless you get like 50 volts or more, the transformer is good.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for the instructions on how to test the transformer (not something I've ever needed to do before). The multimeter showed 27.5 with the fuse removed so it sounds like the issue is most likely the board.

I emailed Waterway in the off chance they could do anything for me and they're sending me a new fuse. I don't imagine the original fuse was anything special but I looked up the designation printed on the fuse (bel 3sb 2a 250v) and found the specs. To my untrained eye, it seems the same as the 2A 250V 25"x1.25" time delay fuses I bought to replace it but do you see anything that makes their fuse special?

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.belfuse.com/resources/datasheets/circuitprotection/ds-cp-3sb-3sbp-series.pdf

 

[Jimrahbe]

do you see anything that makes their fuse special?

O,

Not really...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Jimrahbe]

O,

So... I have never even heard of a Waterway Oasis Controller...

I looked at the manual and am impressed... It looks like it can do the same thing that my EasyTouch can do for about $1,000 bucks.. It 'appears' it can even control IntelliFlo pumps.. Nothing about having a SWCG, but even so.. I like it..

I'll keep this in mind when someone is looking for a low cost automation system.

You might want to PM Tom... @ogdento as he 'might' be able to fix your bad board.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[1poolman1]

O,

So... I have never even heard of a Waterway Oasis Controller...

I looked at the manual and am impressed... It looks like it can do the same thing that my EasyTouch can do for about $1,000 bucks.. It 'appears' it can even control IntelliFlo pumps.. Nothing about having a SWCG, but even so.. I like it..

I'll keep this in mind when someone is looking for a low cost automation system.

You might want to PM Tom... @ogdento as he 'might' be able to fix your bad board.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Having installed about 20 of these systems, all WiFi controlled, I have been very impressed with their capabilities for the cost. They have worked with every major brand of VSP, going all the way back to Pentair's original. Will work with the Nidec Neptune motor, and Century EVO with Century Connect.
The only issue I have had is that they don't do well with a lot of rain. Waterway has always been good about replacing parts under warranty. Otherwise. parts are hard to get. The WiFI antenna needs to have a small amount of silicone sealant run around the top of the antenna or it will leak and be ruined. A lot of water on the cabinet will ruin the display/interface. A little silicone there helps as well, or I have fabricated a small cover to divert rainwater on a couple.
They are a little slow, not reacting as fast as a Jandy or Pentair system, but are solid workhorses.

 

[Option]

O,

So... I have never even heard of a Waterway Oasis Controller...

I looked at the manual and am impressed... It looks like it can do the same thing that my EasyTouch can do for about $1,000 bucks.. It 'appears' it can even control IntelliFlo pumps.. Nothing about having a SWCG, but even so.. I like it..

I'll keep this in mind when someone is looking for a low cost automation system.

You might want to PM Tom... @ogdento as he 'might' be able to fix your bad board.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks! I'll reach out to Tom to see if there's anything he can do.

Yeah, I originally bought the Oasis when I had solar installed since its the only one I could find that could fully control the speed of my Waterway VSP pump (in 1% increments). There are a few quirks with the system that were disappointing (below) but I've been pretty happy overall. That may change if I have to shell out for a whole new system haha

1) The screen died after 6 years and is about $400 to replace. Now, a year later, the whole unit it dead. Maybe that's normal for modern pool automation but it seems like a lot of issues for a 7 year old system that's kept in the shade and under a roof overhang so there's minimal rain exposure (if any).

2) Wifi needs a dedicated 2.4 GHz band to setup. My router does both 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz but after days of troubleshooting with Waterway, we finally got it to work after I bought a cheap 2.4 GHz wifi extender and connected the Oasis to that.

3) If power is cut to the system and restored during a time when the VSP and booster pump should be running, the booster pump will turn on immediately while the VSP is still booting up and there is no option to input a delay for the booster pump. There is a VSP priming setting in the system but it doesn't delay the booster pump activation. This also occurs when exiting service mode during a time when the booster is scheduled to be on and is also an issue with freeze protection since the system turns on both pumps when that's triggered. I put in a switch between the controler and booster pump so I can manually shut off power to the booster when necessary.

4) If the solar heats the pool to the desire temperature, it closes the actuator to the solar panels but does not reduce the speed of the VSP. There appears to be an option for this in the Oasis menus but I've confirmed with Waterway that it does not work. I understand this is a feature included with the other mainstream brands.

 

[Option]

Having installed about 20 of these systems, all WiFi controlled, I have been very impressed with their capabilities for the cost. They have worked with every major brand of VSP, going all the way back to Pentair's original. Will work with the Nidec Neptune motor, and Century EVO with Century Connect.
The only issue I have had is that they don't do well with a lot of rain. Waterway has always been good about replacing parts under warranty. Otherwise. parts are hard to get. The WiFI antenna needs to have a small amount of silicone sealant run around the top of the antenna or it will leak and be ruined. A lot of water on the cabinet will ruin the display/interface. A little silicone there helps as well, or I have fabricated a small cover to divert rainwater on a couple.
They are a little slow, not reacting as fast as a Jandy or Pentair system, but are solid workhorses.

That's interesting to know about the rain issue. My unit is under a roof overhang so it stays pretty dry but if I can get it working again, I'll see about fabricating some kind of cover for it.

 

[Option]

So I was able to get a new board from Oasis (part# 775-0020 for anyone in the same situation who might be reading this later) and my controller is working again.

One thing I did notice when wiring it back up is that the installer ran a wire from one of the pool pump relay inputs to power the circuit board but the installation instructions show a dedicated line running from the circuit breaker to the board. Does anyone know if that is something that could be problematic for the circuit board? If that is something that could have caused the board to malfunction prematurely, I'd obviously like to know so I can get that rectified.

(in case it helps, I included the diagram from the install manual with the correct power line highlighted in yellow and the installer's wire added in blue)

 

[ajw22]

Is your pump circuit breaker GFCI as required by the NEC for safety?

That blue wire should not work with a GFCI CB.

You should install a GFCI CB and put the power to the panel in a dedicated circuit. You do not want to lose the panel if the pump trips the CB.

 

[1poolman1]

So I was able to get a new board from Oasis (part# 775-0020 for anyone in the same situation who might be reading this later) and my controller is working again.

One thing I did notice when wiring it back up is that the installer ran a wire from one of the pool pump relay inputs to power the circuit board but the installation instructions show a dedicated line running from the circuit breaker to the board. Does anyone know if that is something that could be problematic for the circuit board? If that is something that could have caused the board to malfunction prematurely, I'd obviously like to know so I can get that rectified.

(in case it helps, I included the diagram from the install manual with the correct power line highlighted in yellow and the installer's wire added in blue)

The transformer should have its own 120V supply breaker and the other wire going to the neutral. You should not "piggyback" off one side of the pump breaker or relay. If you had a GFCI breaker, as should be installed, it would continue to trip with an un-balanced load.

 

[Option]

Thank you both for your replies. I'm pretty sure none of my breakers are GCFI which would explain why that piggyback shortcut wasn't tripping the breaker. I'm not sure if my panel has room to add another breaker for a dedicated line to the panel but I do have a 120V line running to a GCFI receptacle (with some LED rope lights plugged in) and the pool light. Would it be better to power the board with that circuit until I can get a new dedicated breaker added?