New Construction Pool - filling now...

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grkero

Silver Supporter
Mar 30, 2024
15
Sacramento, CA
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I just completed my first pool as owner/builder. I started in the fall and took my time. Weather in Northern California was a bit messy but we've had a great few weeks so decided to get this done. I'm running a 1.5" fire hose through some carbon and sediment filters giving me about 40 GPM so it should be done today for about 26,000 gallons.

My fill water is around 6.8 pH and Total Alkalinity 50. I plan to make my first correction with bringing both up with Sodium Bicarbonate. I ordered my TF-Pro test kit a little late so I am still waiting on that. I have a Taylor kit right now but I need to go pick something up for Calcium Hardness. Crossing my fingers for a smooth start up with the equipment.

unnamed3.jpg

Equipment pad did not turn out like I originally planned. I think overall it'll be ok. I just ended up relocating the filter and blocked my suction side valves a little bit. But I can still reach them without stepping over anything.
unnamed4.jpg
 
grkero said:
I just completed my first pool as owner/builder. I started in the fall and took my time. Weather in Northern California was a bit messy but we've had a great few weeks so decided to get this done. I'm running a 1.5" fire hose through some carbon and sediment filters giving me about 40 GPM so it should be done today for about 26,000 gallons.

My fill water is around 6.8 pH and Total Alkalinity 50. I plan to make my first correction with bringing both up with Sodium Bicarbonate. I ordered my TF-Pro test kit a little late so I am still waiting on that. I have a Taylor kit right now but I need to go pick something up for Calcium Hardness. Crossing my fingers for a smooth start up with the equipment.

View attachment 624667

Equipment pad did not turn out like I originally planned. I think overall it'll be ok. I just ended up relocating the filter and blocked my suction side valves a little bit. But I can still reach them without stepping over anything.
View attachment 624668
Click to expand...
Fill up the pool and leave the TA and pH alone. The TA is fine at 50ppm as long as it doesn’t go lower than that. The pH will slowly rise all by itself as aeration in the water increases while your filling the pool.
 
Bperry said:
Fill up the pool and leave the TA and pH alone. The TA is fine at 50ppm as long as it doesn’t go lower than that. The pH will slowly rise all by itself as aeration in the water increases while your filling the pool.
Click to expand...
Not for plaster startup. To achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days

What startup guide are you following?

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Congratulations! on completing your build. What an accomplishment. Looks like I see an autocover in the first image. Nice.
 
I've been progressing nicely with the start up here going along with the NPC card. I added my first chlorine last time raising the pool to a little over 2.0 ppm. I noticed today a difference in water color, green but clear. I figure it's the iron that came from filling the pool from our well. I tested the FC again this evening, and it's almost completely gone. What could this be indicative of, or is this common for the first addition of chlorine?

Also, I have the CH around 200 ppm, is there a case to raise this higher now, or just keep it as is for now? The NPC guidance seems to keep it at 200 ppm for the first month.
 

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The lighting is not ideal and I forgot to take a picture earlier, but here is one attached. I added CYA today, starting this morning first thing, and took probably half the day.
 

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Not convinced it is iron. Not convinced it is NOT either...from that picture.

Not much you can your should do to address the algae during the first 28 days. Do not SLAM.

As for the iron, you might get some polyfill and put it in the skimmer (not too much to stop flow, but that may tell you if you have some iron in the water and will help you remove it.
 
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PoolStored said:
Do maintain your FC for your CYA. Here is your guide...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
^^This will keep algae at bay until you can SLAM, if necessary.
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Follow the startup guide for FC and CYA levels for the first 28 days then transition to TFP recommendations.
 
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grkero said:
Also, I have the CH around 200 ppm, is there a case to raise this higher now, or just keep it as is for now? The NPC guidance seems to keep it at 200 ppm for the first month.
Click to expand...
Post a full set of current tests:

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA
WATER TEMP

CH of 200 is ok. 250 may be better but I want tyo see the full picture.
 
ajw22 said:
Post a full set of current tests:

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA
WATER TEMP

CH of 200 is ok. 250 may be better but I want tyo see the full picture.
Click to expand...
After re-dosing the chlorine tonight I am at

FC 5.0
PH 7.5
TA 100
CH 210
CYA 45 estimated
57F water temp

I can’t test CC or CYA yet because my TF-100 Pro kit was shipped over on the Mayflower apparently. I’ve been working from my Taylor residential kit for the rest. I just used pool math to dose the CYA this morning and so far all the measurements from there have been dead accurate so I’m confident my CYA is where I think it is.
 
What color is your plaster?

Don’t overdo the FC. Keep it around 3ppm for the startup.
 
ajw22 said:
What color is your plaster?

Don’t overdo the FC. Keep it around 3ppm for the startup.
Click to expand...
It’s a dark plaster. I actually went to 3 ppm on FC. I was thinking the 5 recommendation from the CYA chart. But as I understand it I shouldn’t really follow the CYA/FC until after the first month?

I used Beautec for the iron after I filled but I’m not convinced it has done anything. For some reason I haven’t been able to find any of the recommended iron sequestering products locally.
 
grkero said:
It’s a dark plaster. I actually went to 3 ppm on FC. I was thinking the 5 recommendation from the CYA chart. But as I understand it I shouldn’t really follow the CYA/FC until after the first month?
Click to expand...

Correct. Follow the startup guide for FC and CYA levels for the first 28 days then transition to TFP recommendations. You do not want to bleach the color from your dark plaster.

grkero said:
I used Beautec for the iron after I filled but I’m not convinced it has done anything. For some reason I haven’t been able to find any of the recommended iron sequestering products locally.
Click to expand...
Deal with iron in the water after your startup.
 
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