New owner of a pool that just recently turned green

[Thomas555]

Hi all,

As the title suggests, I'm new to owning a pool and a complete newb to maintaining one. I've been unintentionally neglecting the maintenance of the pool as I'm renovating my home and getting it ready for us to move in. Unfortunately, I've now left it alone for far too long and it's recently turned green with algae. After finding and joining TFP, as well as youtubing a bunch, looks like I'll need to SLAM the pool. I've already ordered the TF-Pro kit on the 26th but looks like it won't arrive until the 2nd. Should have ordered the Taylor kit from Amazon for faster shipping, but too late at his point. Until the kit arrives, can anything be done for the time being to control the algae growth?

Eliminating the algae is top priority, as well as understanding the process to properly maintain the pool, but since I'm a complete newb to all aspects of having a pool, I'm hoping the experts here can educate me a bit about my pool.

For starters, I don't have a rectangular pool, more so oblong, and using Pentair's calculator, my pool should be 14,500 gallons not including the spa, so perhaps 15,000 all together. I have a heated Pentair system, and while I can see the model for the filter and heater, I can't make out the model for the pump. Is there a way to identify this?

I attempted to hook up the vacuum hose to the skimmer and observed two things. The first is that I don't see an access hole inside the skimmer after removing the basket. It has another filter cover that I can't seem to remove and I don't see much suctioning or water movement inside the skimmer. The second thing I notice while attempting to remove that piece while placing my fingers inside, I can move a "block" around and that seem to have unblocked the access and allowed the suctioning to happen. Is this normal?

skimmer with basket on



skimmer with basket off



There's another skimmer-like access at the other end of the pool that I haven't been able to open the cover for mainly because it's on pretty tight and I don't want to risk damaging it. Not sure what it's used for?



Lastly, at least for now since it's almost 1am as I'm typing this, there's a pipe for the return, but then I see this other pipe that is capped off. Anybody know what it's used for?



Anyways, I'm glad to have found this site and hope to get some assistance with dealing and maintaining my pool. Appreciate any and all assistance in advance!

 

[kimkats]

Hi and welcome to TFP! You have come to right place to learn everything you need to know about your pool and how to care for it.

The first thing we have to address is you finding some liquid chlorine. See if your local pool store has any chlorine. They should have yellow jugs you can put a deposit down on and use over and over again. Most of the time pool store chlorine is 11%. This is the ONLY thing you will want to buy from the pool store.

If you don't have a convenient pool store for chlorine you can look at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart. Learn how to read the date codes on the bottles and be aware where the chlorine is stored. No full sun or very hot areas as chlorine does degrade due to heat and sun over time. You don't want chlorine older than 3 months if at all possible. Walmart may not have it in stock any more. If they do it will be a white jug and say "Shock" on it. Make sure it is liquid chlorine. You do not want pucks, tablets, power, or any kind of solid chlorine as it adds extra stuff to you water that can cause more harm than good.

You are going to want to add 1 gallon to your water each day until your good test kit gets there. Well done on ordering one of the best kits out there. You are going to want to run the pump 24/7 so it can filter the water to help remove the algae.

While we wait for the test kit to get there please fill in your signature. That helps us help you by knowing what equipment you are working with. Create Your Signature - Further Reading

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Don't worry about waiting a couple extra days for the test kit. The TF-Pro is the better deal IMO.

As for the thing in the skimmer, that's a float diverter valve. It serves as a safety feature, designed to shut closed in the event that the water line drops below the skimmer OR if your Weir door closes for some reason (like an obstruction) so that the pump can draw water from the main drain. Just a way to protect the pump. I suspect that's why you see that item with the access cover in your last pic. That looks like a place to connect a vacuum line. The pic with the stuck cover looks like a second skimmer. Maybe it's just gummed-up and stuck tightly. I can't imagine why anyone would permanently close it unless that skimmer is no longer operational.

Here's another conversation about the diverter.

Skimmer float valve

I bought a new one of these and have a question, what exactly is the purpose of the adjustable plate at the bottom?

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[sande005]

The above responders know more than I about your skimmers and devices. But...where is the water level for your pool? From the pics, to me it seems too low. Look at the rectangular opening to the skimmers from the pool, where the water enters. Is it roughly 1/2 way up the opening? If too low, as @Texas Splash noted, the weir door in the opening may not be folding down due to little flow against it - so the diverter valve is doing its job to protect things.

How to hook up the hose varies, and I again might be guessing here, and your setup is different - do you have an adaptor like this?


It fits over the basket filter in the skimmer, and the hose attaches to its outlet. They come in a limited number of different sizes, so the plate fits in the skimmer, and seals well around the edges, and the outlet fits your hose.
You'll see video's of people using an output jet to pre-fill the hose before attaching it to the skimmer. That seemed too hard for me. I just use the skimmer near the deep and, and when putting the cleaning head/pole/hose in the pool feed it so it goes straight in, vertically and self fills with water. Then just continue feeding shortest sections of the hose vertically into the pool until everything is filled and submerged, including the plate. Then a quick flip of the plate out of the pool and over the pool edge and into the skimmer. Maybe a bit of air into the pump, but it purges itself out very quickly.

 

[Thomas555]

Appreciate the warm welcome!

@kimkats

- create signature --- done!

- hunt down liquid chlorine --- done! I was able to locate 2 bottles from Walmart. I waited until sunset to turn the filter/pump back on and poured the full 1 gallon into the pool. Is there a shortage on these or what? Seems pretty difficult to locate for some reason. Went to 2 other Walmart afterwards and couldn't find any. I'll have to check out more places tomorrow.

@Texas Splash

I got brave and decided to turn the handle to the valve labeled skimmer.



When the skimmer was off, I was able to remove and confirm it was indeed the float diverter valve. When the skimmer is on, it doesn't look like it's getting much suction in the skimmer unless I lift the puck up manually.



Does that mean my water level is low? If so, where should my water level be at? Do I just throw my garden hose in and run it until the pool fills to a certain point? For some reason, I thought refilling the pool would be automatic or built into the design of the pool, kind of like a return or skimmer.



And you are correct, the other pipe is where the vacuum line connects. This had plenty of suction and caught me off guard when I placed my hand on it after twisting off the cap.

As for the other skimmer looking cover, with some force, I was able to remove the cover and discovered the following.



Unlike the skimmer, there's no door or pathway into the pool. I notice water trickling out. If I hold down the white (bottle), water comes spitting out. What is this and what purpose does it serve?

@sande005

From what I can tell, the door seems to open up as shown in the picture above. But it's very possible I need to fill up the pool.

Other than the hose and brush, I don't see the anything around that looks like the adapter you shared. But I'll be sure to put that on the list of things to grab!

Spent all day working on the house so didn't get a chance to reply until now. Again, I appreciate everyone's help thus far!

 

[sande005]

Your setup is "fancier" than my direct experience, so I will let more knowledgeable respond. But to guess:
1. From the first skimmer picture, the water level may be a bit (but not an outrageous) amount low. Perhaps should be up 1/2 a tile level higher.
2. Your device with the float in it is an autofill - so rather than putting a hose in the pool to keep the level up (like some of us poor souls (me!)), this will periodically add water to the desired level. Works just like the tank on the back of the toilet. You can use the wingnut to adjust the float up or down to change the level it keeps the pool at.
3. If that other outlet is suction for your vacuum, use it. No need for the adaptor plate I mentioned. Just make sure to prefill the hose as much as you can, so air from it doesn't get sucked in and cause the pump to lose prime and not pump. Others familiar can elaborate on "how to".

 

[proavia]

Water level should be about half way up the skimmer throat. So half way between the horizontal tile surface and the overhead of the skimmer opening into the pool.

Water flow into the skimmer should not look like flushing a toilet. Water flows over the skimmer weir door, which aids in the skimming action. Put the float valve back in place.

The cap on the vacuum port has a spring to hold it closed. The cap needs to be left in place and the little door on it opened to insert the vacuum hose. This is a safety device - reinstall the cap ASAP and leave it in place.

The area with the little float is your autofill. It automatically adds water to keep the pool filled. The float valve is adjustable so you can set the water level desired. Clean the lid and the area around where the lid fits to make it easier to remove the lid.

 

[Thomas555]

@sande005

Funny that you mention the toilet tank as that was the first thing that came to mind when I saw it. I've topped it off with the hose so that it's now roughly 1 inch from the top of the opening.



@proavia

Appreciate the detail on how the skimmer works. And yes, everything was placed back as it were after I took those sexy close-up shots!

That cap is extremely difficult to pry open with the skimmer running due to the suction. I end up having to unscrew the entire cap just to open it up to attach the vacuum hose. Not a big deal and good to know that's where the vacuum hose is suppose to go.

@kimkats

Looks like the test kit arrived sooner than projected!

What do you guys recommend be my next course of action? Should I continue feeding a gallon of liquid chlorine for the next few days or start testing as soon as tomorrow? I'll try to read up on the topic tonight but is there a process I should follow specifically for my condition? Appreciate any and all replies!

 

[kimkats]

BOOM! Now it is ON!!! ALGAE BE GONE!!!

Here is your next steps:

-Find a pool store that has liquid chlorine since your local Walmart are not carrying it. It is considered "out of season" so you might be out of luck finding it there Get at least 10 gals of chlorine for now.

-Read this post......................warning............do not have anything in your month when reading it LOL: So you are new to testing

Once you are done laughing do a test of your pool water.

Do the tests one at a time taking your time. Know it will take you a bit get them all done. Once you have done it a time or two it will be MUCH easier and faster!!

So hints about the tests:
-FC - call it once the water goes clear. Dump the water or just ignore it as it might take a hit of pink once it sits. Once it goes clear you are done

-CYA (oh how I do NOT like this test but it is what we have)- GLANCE in to see if you can see the dot at a GLANCE. If you go looking for it you will end up seeing it.

Do you have Pool Math yet? If not get it please or use the browser pool math:
PoolMath or PoolMath

Once you have your water tested and noted then you get to do a full on SLAM!!!
SLAM Process

It is a process that may take a bit of time but it will be so worth when your pool gets TFP clear like these:
How Clear is TFP Clear?

Kim

 

[sande005]

While all the tests are good to get to know, the critical ones for a green pool are:

CYA - you may have to repeat a couple of times to learn how. Once you get a couple of the same readings in a row, you're good. You won't have to do it very often, unless you end up putting in stabilizer or something that has stabilizer in it. If the reading is above a line, round up to the next highest.

FC - don't use the two part vial (chlorine and pH). That's more for a quick "do I have chlorine at all" test. Use the powder and drop test. You'll do this test a lot when doing the SLAM.
CC - primarily an indicator of something biological being killed by the chlorine. Usually if it takes more than one drop to go clear, trouble is brewing. It's not definitive though for indicating you are algae free. You just may have a low enough amount that the test doesn't detect it - and it is ready to bloom again at the slightest "oops". To be assured, there is the overnight test to verify you've killed it all - details in the SLAM Process instructions.

Note that pH isn't accurate if your FC is over 10, so ignore results if that high.

 

[proavia]

That cap is extremely difficult to pry open with the skimmer running due to the suction. I end up having to unscrew the entire cap just to open it up to attach the vacuum hose. Not a big deal and good to know that's where the vacuum hose is suppose to go.

That's the whole point - making the cap difficult to open so little hands can't open it and get their fingers or other body parts detached from the rest of their body (and happens to adult as well).

To open the cap, turn off the suction to that port or just shut off the pump. Once you do it a few times, it gets easier. Some have success by using a flat blade screwdriver near the latch mechanism to pop the latch open.

Do NOT remove the entire fitting to use the vacuum port. Take the time to do it the correct way.

Better safe than sorry!

 

[Thomas555]

@proavia

Good to know! I will turn the suction off when I need to use it.

@kimkats @sande005

After reading through that thread and actually performing the steps (ran the test multiple times), it's definitely not as difficult as I was expecting!

Unless I've managed to screw up the tests all those times, here are the results:

*previous owner has a schedule set, hence the difference between pump on/off, I manually turn it back on afterwards.

test 1 and 2 - with filter/pump off, and heater and return on
-FC = 15.5 (all samples were not clear but cloudy with no pink)
-CC = zero
-CYA over 100 (now I understand what you mean regarding this test)

test 3 and 4 - with filter/pump on, heater and return off
-FC = 14
-CC = zero
-CYA over 100

test 5 - with everything off
-FC = 15
-CC = zero
-CYA over 100, same result with a diluted sample

test 1
-TA = 150
-CH = 625
-PH = 8.2 or more
-BR = 10 or more

So what should I make of this? Seems like I have too much chlorine and too much CYA? From a quick search, sounds like I need to drop the CYA level instead of doing a SLAM?

Side note, the pools looks much petty than before even thought I know I still have to work out these issues.

before


3 days after

 

[sande005]

Having equipment on or off will make no difference at the time of testing.
pH readings will be incorrect if CL is over 10. So ignore until you can get them down.
Bromine test is meaningless, unless you are using Bromine products (which we hope you aren't - but let us know if you are! A big impact on how to fight the algae.)
While the water is clearing, you still have lots of algae on the surfaces. That means increasing Cl to SLAM levels and maintaining there until all gone.
But, with the very high CYA, that will take a huge amount of liquid chlorine.
So, you may have to replace about 1/2 your water with fresh to get the CYA down. Then start the SLAM.
Right now, your Cl is a bit high for normal use, but you can see that the SLAM level is 40 (!) at your current CYA level. It is safe to swim, even at the SLAM levels.
Your current amount will drop on its own, if you don't add anything for a day - but with the algae, keep adding, even if you can't yet do a full SLAM.

CH is highish. Test your fill water to see if it came from that. If that is lower, than that level will drop too when you replace water for the CYA issue.

 

[wireform]

Well let me put this out there, if the CYA is above 90 a diluted CYA test will be necessary, instructions below:

1. If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
   1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
   2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
   3. Shake briefly to mix.
   4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
   5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.

 

[kimkats]

What @wireform said.

I would get ready to drain and replace some water. We will know how much when you do the CYA using what he said above.

 

[sande005]

In his test #5, he said he did the dilution sample also....and still got 100.

 

[proavia]

In his test #5, he said he did the dilution sample also....and still got 100.

Which indicates to try a 2:1 or 3:1 dilution rate of tap water to pool water. Then do the CYA test again.

 

[sande005]

Which indicates to try a 2:1 or 3:1 dilution rate of tap water to pool water. Then do the CYA test again.

He'll have to confirm that with the diluted sample, he got 50 - which translates to 100.
Or just got 100 again.

 

[Thomas555]

@wireform
I didn't have my laptop with me today so didn't get a chance to review your suggestion. However, I did run the CYA test again and got the follow results:

test #1 - between 80-90

test #2 - between 90-100

test #3-6 - right around 90.
* I didn't want to waste anymore of the solution so I just used the same mix and repeated the pouring. That may or may not have invalidated the test but man, I just didn't want to waste anymore solution for the day!

I'll run the test again tomorrow, both normally as well as the dilution method suggested.

Appreciate you guys taking the time to respond!

 

[kimkats]

We DO encourage using the same test water to get others opinion on this *wonderful* test. Please note the sarcasm LOL