Aquarite Goldline Issue

[emdoller]

Recently my aquarite goldline salt generator stopped working. LED lights went out but display lit up. After reading many posts, I changed the thermistor today. The LED lights came on but I got “no flow” staying red. After more reading, I shorted out the flow switch and the system generated salt. Great! So I just ordered a flow switch from Amazon and it will arrive tomorrow morning. It’s not a Hayward and was $25. Hope it works.

What’s strange is the salt display reading before any fix was 3300. Now is displaying 3.30. It’s like it’s in k units. Why? And how can I switch it back?

My firmware is r1.40

Thanks in advance!! You guys have saved my big $$.

 

[ajw22]

What’s strange is the salt display reading before any fix was 3300. Now is displaying 3.30. It’s like it’s in k units. Why? And how can I switch it back?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The salt and temperature display can be in English units of ppm and F or changed to Metric units of g/l and C by the following:

1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "ºF" appears on the display.
3. Slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto".
4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

 

[emdoller]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The salt and temperature display can be in English units of ppm and F or changed to Metric units of g/l and C by the following:

1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "ºF" appears on the display.
3. Slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto".
4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

I tried that and I don’t get °F as an option. My system is old and maybe doesn’t have that ability. I’ll research it but believe you are right because the water temp is on Celsius.

 

[emdoller]

Got it. Push to get temp in auto, then to super chlorinate and back to auto.

 

[emdoller]

I still find it odd that both the thermistor and the flow switch failed at the same time. Is this normal?

 

[ajw22]

I still find it odd that both the thermistor and the flow switch failed at the same time. Is this normal?

Whose to say what normal is.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Your flow switch may have failed before the thermistor did. I have done both repairs to mine and for the last year I've bypassed the flow sensor and make sure my SWG wasn't on when the pump was off. I didn't want to pay the Hayward price and didn't trust aftermarket sensors.

 

[emdoller]

Your flow switch may have failed before the thermistor did. I have done both repairs to mine and for the last year I've bypassed the flow sensor and make sure my SWG wasn't on when the pump was off. I didn't want to pay the Hayward price and didn't trust aftermarket sensors.

Good to know. I’ll try the after market sensor and if/when it fails, I’ll bypass it as well.

 

[ajw22]

Good to know. I’ll try the after market sensor and if/when it fails, I’ll bypass it as well.

We do not recommend bypassing the flow switch. You should have a primary and secondary safety switch. We have seen cells explode from being energized with no flow.

 

[TinFoilHat]

I know that but I also knew I was going to move on to the Circupool.