Jandy Jxi 200N heat exchanger corrosion

BMpool

Member
Aug 14, 2022
15
Canada
Hi folks,

For the past few days I was getting two different error codes on my 3-year old Jandy Jxi 200N pool heater: 1. High flue temp, 2. High temp limit.
I was able to clear the "high flue temp", but the "high temp limit" kept popping up and forced the heater to shut-off. I also started hearing banging noises from the exchanger, so I knew something wasn't right and I'm not just dealing with a bad sensor. Based on my online research, I was probably dealing with poor water flow on the outlet of heater.

I removed the versa-flow cap on the manifold and removed the thermal valve, and it was gummed-up with lots of big and small pieces. I attached a picture of a few of these pieces, and I'm relatively sure they are copper pieces. I flushed the exchanger and it's now working just fine.

In my pool setup I do have a check-valve between the heater and the chlorinator as well as a sacrificial Zinc galvanic protection. Also, I normally have a high PH issue (8 or 8.1) which should cause scaling problem and not a corrosion issue.

My main concern is that my heat exchanger is most likely going bad, and I'm not sure if I should be pro-active and replace the exchanger, or just wait and see what happens. I would greatly appreciate any thoughtful suggestion as what would be the best next step.
 

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Only at the beginning and end of the season which would total to about 10 days.
Can you please explain what would happen if I use the heater when water is colder than 70f?
Did you read the link?
 
Did you read the link?
Oh, I missed it. Thanks for the link.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, the condensation would cause corrosion from the outside of the heat exchanger, right? If that's the case, I probably won't have this issue since I don't have any active leaks (yet) and my corrosion issue seems to be happening from the inside.
 
Oh, I missed it. Thanks for the link.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, the condensation would cause corrosion from the outside of the heat exchanger, right? If that's the case, I probably won't have this issue since I don't have any active leaks (yet) and my corrosion issue seems to be happening from the inside.
You are assuming .

The only reason corrosion happens from the inside is low pH or high water flow eroding the copper.

What is the CH level of your pool?
 
You are assuming .

The only reason corrosion happens from the inside is low pH or high water flow eroding the copper.

What is the CH level of your pool?
My lab test last month showed CH off 240ppm, but it has rained quite a bit since then and might be at or slightly below 200ppm.
I'm in an area with a very soft water and need to dump a bucket of calcium every season to bring it up to the range.
 
200ppm CH or higher should be adequate to protect the heat exchanger unless you have pH below 7.0 stripping it off.
 

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200ppm CH or higher should be adequate to protect the heat exchanger unless you have pH below 7.0 stripping it off.

I'll have the water tested some time this week, and will put the results here.

Any suggestions on what should be the pump rpm to avoid exchanger erosion? I run the pump 24/7 at 2000rpm, and at 2700rpm when heater is ON.
 
Any suggestions on what should be the pump rpm to avoid exchanger erosion? I run the pump 24/7 at 2000rpm, and at 2700rpm when heater is ON.

That gives you a flow way below the maximum for the heater.
 
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Erosion is really a non-issue in most modern heater designs. They all have headers with a high-flow bypass configuration. The thermal regulator controls the fraction of water that flows into the heat exchanger and even when it is full open, most of the water completely bypasses the heater tubing. This is a safety feature so that the amount of hot water that mixes with cold water is such that the differential temperature between the inlet and out let is only a few degrees difference.
 
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