Just overwhelmed

[pb4uswim]

My other issue is in my VSP pump, if I have the speed set anywhere below 2500, I do get decent size air pockets/bubbles in the lid/pump. With that, I do see some bubbles (doesn’t seem like a lot) coming out of 1-2 return jets. I covered the 3 way valve, exposed piping on the valve, and the pump lid area with shaving cream, but didn’t see anything get sucked in or any movement. Hopefully there isn’t a leak somewhere. I no longer run it 24/7 and I have checked in the morning before it kicks on and it is full of water. (I have three stages, stage 3 kicks on for 2/3 hours at 2800 and the air pockets go away)

I had the same issue with my pump. See the thread below:

Air at the pump

I’m not sure what it’s called but it’s where the small strainer basket is connected to the pump. Mine keeps getting air in it. Is this normal? It only gets air when I run the VSP at a lower speed (I usually run at 50%). If I run faster, the air is pushed out and it looks normal again. Hoping...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Squatting Hen]

I had the same issue with my pump. See the thread below:

Air at the pump

I’m not sure what it’s called but it’s where the small strainer basket is connected to the pump. Mine keeps getting air in it. Is this normal? It only gets air when I run the VSP at a lower speed (I usually run at 50%). If I run faster, the air is pushed out and it looks normal again. Hoping...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks. I will check that. Filter was just cleaned my the pool people, and I did lube the o ring today. Guess I could try replacing it, but my water level doesn’t get low in there, just at the very top there are the bubbles.

 

[Squatting Hen]

If the skimmer valve positions haven't changed, it's probably that the wind direction changed. The downwind skimmer will pick up more stuff.
You also may have changed the water flow in the pool when you replaced the return eyes.

I am sure I did change the flow a bit. Old ones were pointing more up too, I have my new ones more at 45 degrees down. I can see the water circulating, but I also see little things and leaves skipping right past my skimmers. One reason I bumped up my VSP, but it did seem to make much of a difference.

About a month ago I bought a beta bot. That does get stuff and takes the place of my skimmers not working as well as I would like.

It still makes me mad when I put a tiny leaf right in from of the skimmer and it doesn’t go in.

 

[Parac]

A skimmer is probably worse than a pool robot if you're watching it. A robot will miss a leaf by 6 inches 10 times in a row if you're watching it, but go in the house for a few minutes and the leaf will be gone when you come out.

I see plenty of stuff go right past the skimmer, but it's also always full of junk that did go in when I empty it.

 

[proavia]

I am sure I did change the flow a bit. Old ones were pointing more up too, I have my new ones more at 45 degrees down. I can see the water circulating, but I also see little things and leaves skipping right past my skimmers. One reason I bumped up my VSP, but it did seem to make much of a difference.

About a month ago I bought a beta bot. That does get stuff and takes the place of my skimmers not working as well as I would like.

It still makes me mad when I put a tiny leaf right in from of the skimmer and it doesn’t go in.

Your returns should be pointed to create a circular flow - clockwise or counter clockwise.
Most returns can be pointed level or slightly down so as not to break the surface much.

 

[Newdude]

IMO we always had that much air getting into the system but it was never evident with single speed pumps because they woosh them out too quickly to see, so they don't build up.

Ignorance was bliss. Lol.

 

[Bperry]

I am sure I did change the flow a bit. Old ones were pointing more up too, I have my new ones more at 45 degrees down. I can see the water circulating, but I also see little things and leaves skipping right past my skimmers. One reason I bumped up my VSP, but it did seem to make much of a difference.

About a month ago I bought a beta bot. That does get stuff and takes the place of my skimmers not working as well as I would like.

It still makes me mad when I put a tiny leaf right in from of the skimmer and it doesn’t go in.

If your skimmers are missing the weir doors, that’ll make them not work as well too so check that they are there and floating (ie not stuck)

 

[Lilypad]

A trick mentioned here is to put ping pong balls in the pool and aim the returns to get them & the water moving
correctly towards the skimmers. Might help since changes in direction and type were made recently. Get that "toilet bowl" effect!

Welcome to TFP!

 

[Squatting Hen]

Jets are circulating the water all in one direction. They look good from what I can see.

I did have to fiddle with one of the wier doors months ago. There was a little shifting and the top Wier stopper (what the Wier hits on and stops it from flipping back) has raised a bit. I bought a new door but that didn’t help. I had to add a piece of plastic (some circular piece I found in the toolbox) to the top middle of the door. That way it will stop at the stopper and won’t flip over. Before, it would flip over and not flip back, causing a blockage of the water.

Now though, I wonder if the little extra weight is causing an issue with the skimmer.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Your door stop might have broken a piece off. That's what happened to mine so I switched to one of the spring loaded ones that just slips into place.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Here is my skimmer area on one of them. You can see how it has raised/shifted a little which caused the “stopper/lip” to raise and allow the weir to flip over.

On the other picture is the part I added so it will still hit that lip and not flip over.

Before I added that, it would sometimes flip over but not back, and get stuck on the lip, up, causing a water flow blockage into that skimmer.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Pool overall

 

[loveSaturday]

Pool overall

I want to come relax by your pool, it’s lovely!

 

[Squatting Hen]

Third post in a row here, but wanted to update my new tests after I got the TF-Pro Salt Kit. My Taylor was just about expired (not sure if they really follow the dates or if they are still good past that) and I ran out of a few.

The TF Pro is nice. It looks like one bottle leaked a little bit, the R0008 Green one, as there was some green on a few bottles, the book, and the guide. I reached out to Nate as a heads up on that.

The PH Test was still pretty difficult to read. I was hoping it would be easier, as the ranges on the TF Pro Kit block were different from my Taylor block, but it was just as difficult. I do have some additional questions around this test.

The Taylor K2006 came with a larger block and you fill it up to 44ml mark and you use 5 drops of R0004. The TF block fills to about 6ml and it says to use 5 drops of R0014. Looks like it is just a concentration change on those, so they should work the same. The Taylok kit did come with the R006 ad R005 which was pretty cool when I used those to see the PH change. The TF Pro Kit doesn't include those two. It does include a chlorine test for 5ppm and under, but I don't think that will apply to my normal usage, and I like the powder test better.

Another difference is the CH test. Taylor uses more water and drops, but the results are multiplied by 10. The TF Pro Kit uses less, but results are by 25 increments.

My chlorine has been increasing. I did add some CH and a little CYA recently. I received the salt generator to 15% today.

PH - 7.9 I think. None of the colors matched. I added 1/2 cup of acid
FC - 13
TC - 0
Salt - 3400
TA - 80
CH - 250 (increments by 25)
CYA - looks like 70

 

[Bperry]

Third post in a row here, but wanted to update my new tests after I got the TF-Pro Salt Kit. My Taylor was just about expired (not sure if they really follow the dates or if they are still good past that) and I ran out of a few.

The TF Pro is nice. It looks like one bottle leaked a little bit, the R0008 Green one, as there was some green on a few bottles, the book, and the guide. I reached out to Nate as a heads up on that.

The PH Test was still pretty difficult to read. I was hoping it would be easier, as the ranges on the TF Pro Kit block were different from my Taylor block, but it was just as difficult. I do have some additional questions around this test.

The Taylor K2006 came with a larger block and you fill it up to 44ml mark and you use 5 drops of R0004. The TF block fills to about 6ml and it says to use 5 drops of R0014. Looks like it is just a concentration change on those, so they should work the same. The Taylok kit did come with the R006 ad R005 which was pretty cool when I used those to see the PH change. The TF Pro Kit doesn't include those two. It does include a chlorine test for 5ppm and under, but I don't think that will apply to my normal usage, and I like the powder test better.

Another difference is the CH test. Taylor uses more water and drops, but the results are multiplied by 10. The TF Pro Kit uses less, but results are by 25 increments.

My chlorine has been increasing. I did add some CH and a little CYA recently. I received the salt generator to 15% today.

PH - 7.9 I think. None of the colors matched. I added 1/2 cup of acid
FC - 13
TC - 0
Salt - 3400
TA - 80
CH - 250 (increments by 25)
CYA - looks like 70

The pH colors will never “match”. You use the colors on the block to judge if the color of your water sample is purple-er than the block or orangier and pick which one is closest to matching. Then use that number. It’s not a pass/fail test, just gets you close enough.

 

[proavia]

For the pH test - try using 4 drops of reagent instead of 5.
For some, 4 drops makes determining the color a bit easier.

 

[Squatting Hen]

For the pH test - try using 4 drops of reagent instead of 5.
For some, 4 drops makes determining the color a bit easier.

4 drops does give a different color than 5, but would that throw the result off?

Trying both my Taylor 44ml test and the TF Pro smaller one. Guess my eyes just aren’t good at reading these. It looks more pink than orange or purple, so I guess that is good?

Are those digital PH testers really cumbersome?

 

[proavia]

4 drops does give a different color than 5, but would that throw the result off?

Trying both my Taylor 44ml test and the TF Pro smaller one. Guess my eyes just aren’t good at reading these. It looks more pink than orange or purple, so I guess that is good?

Are those digital PH testers really cumbersome?

For me, when using 4 drops instead of 5, it does not give a different color but the intensity of the color is different.
For me and my eyes, this allows me to better match my sample to what it on the comparator block.
I've never used the Taylor 44ml block as I have a TF-100.

Be sure to have good white backlighting. Holding the comparator block up to the sky, a block wall or wood fencing will make determining the reading more difficult.

And remember - we aren't makimg rocket fuel here. Close is close enough. Any pH in the 7's is good.

I tried a digital pH tester. To me, with needing to calibrate it and store it a cetain way, it was more trouble than was worth.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Adding some acid, just under two cups, and I can now see it is at 7.6 on the Taylor test. The Taylor one seems a little easier to read the the TF Pro one, but I will keep comparing both. The 7.6 was much easier to read after adding the acid.

 

[pb4uswim]

Are those digital PH testers really cumbersome?

I tried a digital pH tester. To me, with needing to calibrate it and store it a cetain way, it was more trouble than was worth.

I also tried a pH tester and felt the same as proavia. More trouble than it’s worth and, it just inserted another number that I wasn’t confident in. Stick with the drops and give yourself a little more leeway. You just need to be in the mid to high 7’s. As I said earlier. Look at the 8.2. Is your sample under that? Then look at the 6.8. Is your sample over that? If yes to both, you’re probably in pretty good shape.