Hayward S244T tank leak - Fix?

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rj101

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Apr 28, 2009
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I've got a several years old Hayward S244T that developed a pinhole leak in the seam where the two halves of the tank are joined about 6 inches down from the top. The little bit of water spewing out seemed to get heavier in a within hours, so I've used a large solder iron to melt the area and added a little plastic on the outside as a band-aid. That dramatically slowed it to a little running down the tank, but it didn't fix it. I need to address the leak on the inside. Anyone have a suggestion for the best way to repair this? I was thinking some type of patch - JP Weld plastic, flex seal, epoxy, PVC glue, something that could get in the hole and plug it up. Because the leak is near the top, I was assume that I'll have to empty the tank to invert it and get the leak on the bottom so whatever I apply inside can be forced/seep into the hole and set up. If this is the best way to fix, any suggestions on which material would be the best to use? Thanks.
 
I'm the first person to try various DIY repairs with JB products and other stuff, but for a textbook reply to your question - don't try to repair the filter vessel. Its' under too much pressure. Now that it has a compromised location, it could rupture at any time. Best to put it out to pasture and get a new one - safety. Sorry. :(
 
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There isn't much that can be done to patch or fix the leak that's permanent. There is little risk of a causing harm, but there is risk of it completely failing and pumping out your pool. If it were a compressible gas (air) in it and not an incompressible fluid (water) there would be risk of harm when it ruptures.

The cost of replacement tank is probably almost the same as a entire new filter and more readily available. If you have a filter with 1-1/2" fittings and you wished you had 2" now is the time to make the plumbing change (I kick myself for not making this change when my filter failed, I also have a bit of cavitation at higher pump speeds at the outlet fitting since it's not a smooth transition).

Just looked to see how much the price changed, in 2020 I paid $450, now it looks to be in the $700 range!
 
rj101 said:
I've got a several years old Hayward S244T that developed a pinhole leak in the seam where the two halves of the tank are joined about 6 inches down from the top. The little bit of water spewing out seemed to get heavier in a within hours, so I've used a large solder iron to melt the area and added a little plastic on the outside as a band-aid. That dramatically slowed it to a little running down the tank, but it didn't fix it. I need to address the leak on the inside. Anyone have a suggestion for the best way to repair this? I was thinking some type of patch - JP Weld plastic, flex seal, epoxy, PVC glue, something that could get in the hole and plug it up. Because the leak is near the top, I was assume that I'll have to empty the tank to invert it and get the leak on the bottom so whatever I apply inside can be forced/seep into the hole and set up. If this is the best way to fix, any suggestions on which material would be the best to use? Thanks.
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There's not a lot that will permanently stick to that polyethylene tank.
 
No amount of DIY'er will guarantee success for the long hall and will fail sooner then later once you put the iron to it. Cut your losses now and bite the bullet. Should that filter fail when you're not around, can bring the costs more if it then takes your pump with it. As the saying goes short cuts are long cuts.
 
If the tank is polyethylene as @1poolman1 stated (seems like it or maybe a glass filled polypropylene) most adhesive will not bond well to it. They are know as low energy surface materials (non-stick like). There are special adhesives that bond well to these. You could try, but there are no guarantees. Everytime the pump turns on and off the tank does flex. You already found the weak spot or a weak spot was created, it will likely probabgate to a larger failure. If a significant tank failure isn't going to be a problem trying to patch is a possible low cost repair option.

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How to prepare and bond polyethylene
Infinity Bond MMA 500 Difficult Plastic Bonding Methacrylate Adhesive
Loctite Super Glue Plastics Bonding System
 
I've had to replace my Mega Filter top and then this year, the bottom, due to cracks materializing. Just a cost of doing business, or normal wear if you will as my filter is/was 22 years old. I replaced both due to safety concerns.
 
Got it, and I appreciate the education on why a patch won't stick on the material. One not so tiny correction; I've got the S270t, not the 244t (bought the 244, but exchanged for the 270). Then the next question is, what would be the best replacement? You are right, the couple of places that I could find the tank as a part, it was just as expensive as a whole new W3S270T that apparently replaced my filter. If I go back with that, I could salvage the Dr. Dryden's Activate filter media (with which I have been very pleased), but would I be looking at the same potential problem with a failure of the tank in a few years? Pool is 33,000 gal in ground vinyl liner with a 1.5hp Hayward super II pump, 1.5" pipe/fittings, and a Aquapilot DIG-220 SWC. Thanks.
 

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I would go with another of the same filter. With your size pool, I would consider a filter with 2" ports. It would be a bit more free flowing. I am in the same size range and I have S244 with 1-1/2 port and I can hear cavitation on my filter outlet fitting where it steps up to 2 inch pipe. All my pad plumbing is 2 inch and the I have 1-1/2" home runs for all the lines. I think my pump and SWG are also 2".

For longevity of the filter tank, I would make sure it's protected from possible impacts (debris thrown from a string trimmer or lawn mower, etc) and drained if freezing is possible. Also check the new one closely to make sure it wasn't damaged in shipping. I don't see any reason you could not reuse your filter media, other than the hassle to get it from one tank to the new one (probably need to take some out just to move the old filter anyway, cutting the top off the old tank should make it easier to dig out the media)? My experience has been that sand has worked fine and inexpensive. My original tank lasted 15 plus years (not sure how old it was when I bought my house), the replacement is on its 5th year (I think).

FYI. I also had the same pump and changed to a Hayward TriStar VS 950 Omni (I was changing to SW) and my pump usage is much less and the pool has been cleaner, since the pump is running 19-20 hours a day usually at a much lower speed.
 
Quick update. I went with a new S270T2 since the local supplier only sells the 2" version of the filter. Glad I did as I did not realize how much cavitation noise I was getting from the 1 1/2" fittings/pipe in the old filter. I did notice that where my old tank was leaking, there was a dimple on the seam weld on the inside of the tank - thickness at that point was 1/2 or less than the rest of the seam. Worrisome because the new replacement tank has two such dimples, one on either seam.
 
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