Hayward AquaTrol RJ to HP circuit board change out

[dilsmith3]

I’ve done research on internet and here on TFP. I was a member here many years but lost my logins so this is new acct. I’m be looked over the threads of changing RJ to HP. I’ve owned Aquatrol HP for years. Built a new pool this year at our new house. Instead of using my unit, I bought a new system for new 21’ AGP. Without realizing the order number which was RJ I ordered and installed in system. Then realized I had no flow switch and tee. So I bought that thinking RJ could operate horizontally like HP. WRONG. So after much search as the System never registers right salt with errors. “ check salt” and “salt inspect cell”

So has anyone heard or done a circuit board change from RJ to HP and the system then runs as HP with a flow switch?

Thank you

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Is there the cutout at the bottom on your cabinet where the flow switch connector goes with the HP board?

Hayward AquaTrol SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[dilsmith3]

Yes. There is the phone type jack. Both RJ and HP boxes are same. From my research the only diff is the PCB programmed chip code. Al 7 is without flow switch.

I have this RJ cell horizontal and it will not read correct salt levels so I’m guessing there are some other parameters the board (AL 7) measures that require cell mounted vertically.
So I’m guessing one could change out PCB to the AL 6 one for flow switch n

 

[ajw22]

Do you have the hump down?

Is the system only powered when the pump is running?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

The RJ model requires a constant 120Vac power to the bd. The internal timer when in the ON/Close position sends an analog signal to the Micro-Controller chip to:
1. Energize the K3 Relay which sends the 120Vac power to the AC outlet at the bottom of the panel for the motor pump.
2. Start the cycle of producing chlorine.
I have no exposure to an HP model and cannot speak for that. However, I have tested an RJ mainboard on an Aquarite panel with the cell installed horizontally and it worked.

 

[dilsmith3]

Hmm. Cell hump is up. Like a camel. System on when pump is running. Haven’t gotten the pump clock/timer set yet. Manual pump on and off daily at pump. 6am when I get up and around 10 at night

 

[dilsmith3]

Here are some pictures.

 

[ajw22]

Hump should be down to ensure plates are submerged in pool water flow.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

The flow switch feature on an RJ is disabled by default.
Questions:
1. How are you measuring the actual salt level?
2. How old is the cell?
3. What are the diagnostics?

 

[dilsmith3]

The hump is down. I think I have a bad board or cell. This is all brand new equipment but will not report a salt level. Reaet / refresh it starts at 3200 but goes to zero. Front panel shows 1500 with blinking lights. Pool store reports salt level at 3364. All water chemistry is in check. All good. These units are ez pz to get going. This one? Not sure other than it’s an RJ model with horizontal salt cell.

The flow switch feature on an RJ is disabled by default.
Questions:
1. How are you measuring the actual salt level?
2. How old is the cell?
3. What are the diagnostics?

the unit and cell brand new purchase. Salt level verified twice at pool store at 3300. I understand the RJ has no flow switch. Power numbers in diagnostics looked in range prior to check salt and check cell error light. And the unit shows 1500 on front, outside the menu dianogstics. My orig questions is on changing the circuit board from RJ to HP. But seems I have issue with unit just running normal in RJ, even though I understand the flow switch is a safety issue if pump or water flow is off. I’m afraid this unit is toast. DOA on install. Though. This is my 2nd system unit. Last one lasted 5 years. New pool. So new unit. SMH

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Move the switch to off and back to Auto. Calibrate the cell as soon as you hear the relay click. If the instant salinity reading goes down rapidly, call in a warranty. You may have a degraded t-5.

 

[dilsmith3]

So follow up on this thread. I called place I purchased system and worked with their tech to resolve. So they seemed to determine that the box was bad. Sent a new box replacement. They told me to keep the failed one for parts if needed. It’s still the RJ box system. Installed and powered up and
System works. Though, the salt cell is horizontal on ground, not vertical at pool. So I manually turn on and off right now when turning pump off at night. Since a flow switch does not work with RJ.

So, I have the box that was replaced. I’m thinking of purchasing the HP circuit board and replacing the RJ board in the system. Technically since RJ and HP are similar boards just without flow switch CB option on RJ, it should work. It’s a cost to purchase I know, but this could be a fix replacement in pool system to use since I put in a flow switch in the plumbing already.

Thoughts?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

So follow up on this thread. I called place I purchased system and worked with their tech to resolve. So they seemed to determine that the box was bad. Sent a new box replacement.

When you say "box replacement" can I assume you only refer to the mainboard?

So I manually turn on and off right now when turning pump off at night. Since a flow switch does not work with RJ.

The Aquarite model requires a constant 120VAC to energize the built-in timer. The Power LED when lit recognizes the presence of the incoming AC power to the mainboard.
Otoh, the built-in timer controls the Motor pump and the Power to the cell. Is the timer working properly? Please review post# 5 above.
Compared to the HP model, the RJ does not have the secondary safety features of a flow switch to cut power to the cell in the event of insufficient or no flow. Hence, the recommended vertical installation.

So, I have the box that was replaced. I’m thinking of purchasing the HP circuit board and replacing the RJ board in the system. Technically since RJ and HP are similar boards just without flow switch CB option on RJ, it should work. It’s a cost to purchase I know, but this could be a fix replacement in pool system to use since I put in a flow switch in the plumbing already.

Thoughts?

Absolutely! Getting an HP replacement board is the right thing to do. As it is, you can probably save some $ by exploring other options like installing a current sensing device before the pump. But that is a different avenue and I may be overthinking. The choice is yours!

 

[dilsmith3]

They sent the entire aquatrol complete box. The white box cabinet with all the guts. So I have 2 boxes. The replacement one is working in manual mode. Ie. Turn off an on by hand daily. As Well as hoping pump flow is good.

The thought was to change the PCB in original white box. Ie RJ to HP. From my research it appears this will work. Just not found anyone who has actually done that.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

They sent the entire aquatrol complete box. The white box cabinet with all the guts. So I have 2 boxes. The replacement one is working in manual mode. Ie. Turn off an on by hand daily. As Well as hoping pump flow is good.

That's a very good warranty! But what do you mean by manual mode? The Hayward Aquatrol has a built-in analog timer so you can run the pump and start producing chlorine on schedule. Can you show us pictures with the front plate removed?

The thought was to change the PCB in original white box. Ie RJ to HP. From my research it appears this will work. Just not found anyone who has actually done that.

I swapped the Aquarite with Aquatrol RJ boards and vice versa and they worked for me. I went as far as migrating the software and EEPROM data back and forth between the AQR and an RJ to satisfy my curiosity. I never had a chance to work on a HP model but the only difference between the RJ and HP board is the software and EEPROM data. Component wise, they're 100% identical.
In your case, I think it would be much easier to replumb and install the cell vertically in compliance to the manufacturer's recommendation.

 

[dilsmith3]

Well. Manually I mean not using time clock with pool for on and off auto mode. Reason is that RJ board (my current ) does not use safety flow switch. So when pump stops on auto it keeps making chlorine in none moving water. Hence the safety issue. RJ is to be mounted vertical at return jet hence RJ so the gas could flow out and vaporize in pool when no water flow.

I had already piped in and have a flow switch. All because I bought RJ instead of HP. I was buying the HP but did not second look at purchase order. My bad. So my how search has been to fix my issue. I don’t re-piping RJ at pool is a solution as it only has 15 feet of control wire. Pool is about 25 feet from the box.

 

[dilsmith3]

That's a very good warranty! But what do you mean by manual mode? The Hayward Aquatrol has a built-in analog timer so you can run the pump and start producing chlorine on schedule. Can you show us pictures with the front plate removed?

I swapped the Aquarite with Aquatrol RJ boards and vice versa and they worked for me. I went as far as migrating the software and EEPROM data back and forth between the AQR and an RJ to satisfy my curiosity. I never had a chance to work on a HP model but the only difference between the RJ and HP board is the software and EEPROM data. Component wise, they're 100% identical.
In your case, I think it would be much easier to replumb and install the cell vertically in compliance to the manufacturer's recommendation.

So how did you swap data between the EEPROMs? From my research the AQR, HP, RJ PCB are same. Only difference is the programming data. My end game is to get the HP version working in my box unit. Is there a way to save the EEPROM data and put in a file or usb stick? Tht would be helpful to mod boards.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Well. Manually I mean not using time clock with pool for on and off auto mode. Reason is that RJ board (my current ) does not use safety flow switch.

Correct, the RJ model does not use a flow switch. The RJ mainboard is a crippled version of the HP (US version).

So when pump stops on auto it keeps making chlorine in none moving water. Hence the safety issue.

I think you got this wrong! On the Aquatrol RJ (US version), only the power LED stays ON and the in-house timer runs for as long as the AC power is present. When the timer is set to ON (auto or manually), the pump runs and the "No Flow" LED blinks for a few seconds and goes Off. If no error is detected, the "Generating" LED will come on and the cell produces chlorine.

When the timer reaches the preset OFF position, the pump stops and the "Generating" LED goes off, indicating that the power to the cell is disconnected. Hence, the chlorine production is suspended. Again, only the "Power" LED will remain lit for as long as the AC power is present. If your RJ bd does not function as I described then yes, you have safety issues.
Please observe your RJ and confirm the sequence of operation.

So how did you swap data between the EEPROMs? From my research the AQR, HP, RJ PCB are same. Only difference is the programming data. My end game is to get the HP version working in my box unit. Is there a way to save the EEPROM data and put in a file or usb stick? Tht would be helpful to mod boards.

The Aquarite is designed for the in-ground pools while the RJ and HP models are for above-ground. Re-flashing the sw and re-programming the EEPROM is a risky business and requires some soldering skills to remove the EEPROM from the pcb. I can provide a walkthrough but so you know, you are on your own on this. Yes, the sw.hex and EEPROM.bin can be extracted from a known good source and transported through a media like a USB stick.

Anyway, you are not limited to a costly HP replacement bd. If I were in your shoes, I'd rather get a pre-owned Aquarite bd r1.59 for less than $100. The Aquarite bd offers more flexibility and fits the Aquatrol box without mods. Let us know how you want to proceed.

Btw, you haven't posted the diagnostics. Would you know the software revision? Not sure why the seller says the first box is faulty unless it's an old rev. Just curious!

 

[dilsmith3]

I’ll get the version in morning for both boxes. But they both were new and had the current version. I didn’t save the diagnostics when I called my pool purchase tech support on warranty. But the first box would never register any salt reading. Even going thru the refresh. Reboots. Etc. front panel just showed 0000 salt level.

I’ll set the analog pump timer tommorow to check the power LED is still on and
Chlorine generator light is off when pump is off. I was thinking the clock does not come impact or influence the chlorine gen and
Thinking the flow switch on HP was the
On off for generation. And I’ll re-read the RJ operations. I was so accustomed to working my former HP unit.

 

[dilsmith3]

And I think I will not do EEPROM changes. Above my pay grade. Lol. Just going to get the HP PCB and swap out soon.