Hayward Aquarite new T-15 cell quit?

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KarenP99

Member
Jul 17, 2024
6
New Hampshire
Replaced my T-15 cell on 6/4/2024 and has been working great until a few days ago. It has been decreasing the salt level from the 3600ppm (actual by test), and now reads 1700 and inspect cell and check salt are steady. It is not generating. Diagnostic readings were:
1700
87
23.2
3.79
28P
-1700
AL-1
r1.55
t-15
I purchased a genuine replacement cell, does it sound like it is bad or could it be something else?
 
Welcome to TFP.

Is your Aquarite panel powerful OFF when your pump is not running?
 
wireform said:
Two ideas come to mind. Firstly you need to recalibrate and secondly before you blame the cell I'd recommend an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to rule out algae. You show amperage and voltage which means the cell is operating. And, how are you testing and what are your levels.
Click to expand...
I have recalibrated (and did after the replacement), but now the instant salt level isn't accurate either at -1700. I use the strips for salt, which have been relatively accurate when comparing to my pool store tests - I am confident the level is over 3000PPM. I'll run a water sample to our pool store to confirm. I when I tested yesterday with OTO and strips there was zero chlorine, so I added a couple pucks. It is unusually warm for this area so maybe? Water is clear.
 

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KarenP99 said:
I have recalibrated (and did after the replacement), but now the instant salt level isn't accurate either at -1700. I use the strips for salt, which have been relatively accurate when comparing to my pool store tests - I am confident the level is over 3000PPM. I'll run a water sample to our pool store to confirm.
Click to expand...
You need a Taylor K-1766 Salt test to have any semblance of accuracy, as everything else is wildly inaccurate.

Sounds like you also need FAS-DPD chlorine testing - Test Kits Compared
 
Thank you for the suggestions! I replaced the thermistor, and the only change is I went from a salt reading of 0 to a salt reading of 100. I had the water professionally tested, salt was 3,100 ppm (my test strip read 3380)
Diagnostic before:
1700ppm
87
23.2
3.79
28P
-1700
AL-1
r1.55
t-15
Diagnostic after thermistor replacement:
100ppm
77
27.3
1.31
15P
-100
AL-1
r1.55
t-15

Any thoughts on what my next step should be? I did replace the cell (with a genuine hayward) a few weeks before this all started.
 
Did you recalibrate the controller or just turn it on. To recalibrate do the following:
Turn it off and wait a minute.
Turn it on to auto and listen carefully to the click of the relay somewhere @ about 10 seconds in.
Hit the black button 5 times
Move switch to "super chlorinate and watch the salinity till it stops changing. Once it settled down move the switch back to auto.
 
wireform said:
Did you recalibrate the controller or just turn it on. To recalibrate do the following:
Turn it off and wait a minute.
Turn it on to auto and listen carefully to the click of the relay somewhere @ about 10 seconds in.
Hit the black button 5 times
Move switch to "super chlorinate and watch the salinity till it stops changing. Once it settled down move the switch back to auto.
Click to expand...
I did recalibrate the controller.
 

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