1st timer looking for tips and tricks

CoolArrow

Member
May 28, 2024
18
New Mexico
Pool Size
22000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Good evening everyone!
I finally received my Salt pro kit and am ready to do my first test. Our pool installers said the pool was "ready to go" but I don't think they did anything but throw a bunch of pool shock in the pool before turning it over. I saw that mostly everyone's advice to others is to simply add a gallon of 10% each day to my pool until the kit arrived. I'm certain they didn't even add any salt to my pool because the SWG shows a red light on the panel for salt.

Anyhow, I'm ready to do my first test ever on my first pool ever. I have read lots of the FAQs and other tips on the TFkits website as well as watched their YouTube videos. Even bought the water sample tubes to practice on first, which I'll do tonight. I'm just on here looking for any tips or tricks from you all, thanks!
 
Without stabilizer, a gallon may be a bit too rich. Add a 1/2 a gallon a day until the test kit arrives.

When your kit arrives, post a full set of results and we will launch you!

Take Off Fire GIF by European Space Agency - ESA
 
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Congrats on receiving your TF-Pro Salt test kit!

Look at the instruction sheet and proceed thru each test - one by one.
Have a read thru the extended test kit directions for more details

Fill out your signature with pool, all pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in provide you help without having to ask you each time for this important information.
See mine and others for inspiration.
 
Well I did my first test after practicing with the sample kit from TFkits. Here are the results, help me understand what is happening please.

Ph - 8.2
FC - 1.5
CC - 0
CH - 150
TA - 150
CYA - 0? (The black dot never went away)
Salt - 1400
 
Turn your SWCG off now. Below, after getting ready, I have noted when you can turn it on.

Being in new mexico, I would start with a CYA of 40. Add enough dry chlorine stabilizer to raise your CYA to 40. Use pool math. Link-->PoolMath

Put CYA in a sock, tie it off, and hang it at least 6" out in front of a return, like a carrot on a stick. After about 30 minutes you can start squeezing it if you want. May take several sock fulls to get 40ppm. Just reload the sock(s). If you don't have CYA continue with the 1/2 gallon per day until you have some.

After the sock hits the pool, raise your FC to the top end of the target range for a CYA of 40. Use liquid chlorine. Use this to determine the FC range for a CYA of 40....Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Test and add liquid chlorine daily to keep yourself in range. If you have to add more (above range) so you stay in range when you test, do that. It might be wise to check a few times a day and re-add chlorine until the CYA shows up on the test, just to give you practice and try to stave off any algae that may be lurking.

Test the CYA 24-48 hours after it is all dissolved. When it reads at least 30, do an OCLT. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test If you fail OCLT, report back and we will take the right action.

Lower your pH in .4 increments with muriatic acid. Make the addition, test again in 30 minutes. Continue to lower in .4 increments until your pH gets to 7.6. Over time (may be days) it will rise. When it gets to 8.0, lower to 7.6 again. By doing this, TA will also come down. When your TA gets to about 80, stop lowering to 7.6. Only lower to 7.8 and let it be it should settle somewhere around 7.8-8...which is just fine.

Which salt generator do you have? Typical recommendation is 3000-4000ppm. Look up in the manual the salt level required for your SWCG. Use pool math to figure out how much to add to get to your target from 1400. Add 3/4th of the recommendation, keep the pump running, wait 24 hours, and retest. Creep up on your target with the last 1/4 of the recommendation. Leave the SWCG off until you get the salt level up.

You can do all these additions together. Put the CYA in, dose FC, wait about 15 minutes, then you can start the acid additions. Just always wait about 15 minutes between chlorine and acid, and you can add salt at the same time.

When your salt is in range, fire up the cell. You now about how much FC your pool has been using because you have been manually dosing. Set your pump run time and % output to be a bit higher output than you have been using with liquid chlorine. If you have been adding about 4FC daily in liquid, set it up to add 5FC daily with run time and % output. Then just adjust run times and output until your FC stays in range. Use pool math to help you with run times and % output to give you the right FC addition.

After all this is done, and your cell is making chlorine, AND you have passed an OCLT, then you can raise your CYA again. I would not go higher than 60 until you dial in your SWCG and can keep your FC in range. Same basic principle. Add 20ppm of CYA, raise your FC with liquid, and turn up your runtime or % output for the NEW FC range for CYA of 60. Again, this is your friend...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Only after you are comfortable with maintaining the pool, then you can raise your CYA to 70 or 80. If you go there too fast, can't maintain FC, and have to clear the pool of algae, it is much harder...that is why the recommendation to keep CYA a bit lower until you can manage your pool.

Make sense?

You Got This Go Get Em GIF by Shalita Grant
 
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Turn your SWCG off now. Below, after getting ready, I have noted when you can turn it on.

Being in new mexico, I would start with a CYA of 40. Add enough dry chlorine stabilizer to raise your CYA to 40. Use pool math. Link-->PoolMath

Put CYA in a sock, tie it off, and hang it at least 6" out in front of a return, like a carrot on a stick. After about 30 minutes you can start squeezing it if you want. May take several sock fulls to get 40ppm. Just reload the sock(s). If you don't have CYA continue with the 1/2 gallon per day until you have some.

After the sock hits the pool, raise your FC to the top end of the target range for a CYA of 40. Use liquid chlorine. Use this to determine the FC range for a CYA of 40....Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Test and add liquid chlorine daily to keep yourself in range. If you have to add more (above range) so you stay in range when you test, do that. It might be wise to check a few times a day and re-add chlorine until the CYA shows up on the test, just to give you practice and try to stave off any algae that may be lurking.

Test the CYA 24-48 hours after it is all dissolved. When it reads at least 30, do an OCLT. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test If you fail OCLT, report back and we will take the right action.

Lower your pH in .4 increments with muriatic acid. Make the addition, test again in 30 minutes. Continue to lower in .4 increments until your pH gets to 7.6. Over time (may be days) it will rise. When it gets to 8.0, lower to 7.6 again. By doing this, TA will also come down. When your TA gets to about 80, stop lowering to 7.6. Only lower to 7.8 and let it be it should settle somewhere around 7.8-8...which is just fine.

Which salt generator do you have? Typical recommendation is 3000-4000ppm. Look up in the manual the salt level required for your SWCG. Use pool math to figure out how much to add to get to your target from 1400. Add 3/4th of the recommendation, keep the pump running, wait 24 hours, and retest. Creep up on your target with the last 1/4 of the recommendation. Leave the SWCG off until you get the salt level up.

You can do all these additions together. Put the CYA in, dose FC, wait about 15 minutes, then you can start the acid additions. Just always wait about 15 minutes between chlorine and acid, and you can add salt at the same time.

When your salt is in range, fire up the cell. You now about how much FC your pool has been using because you have been manually dosing. Set your pump run time and % output to be a bit higher output than you have been using with liquid chlorine. If you have been adding about 4FC daily in liquid, set it up to add 5FC daily with run time and % output. Then just adjust run times and output until your FC stays in range. Use pool math to help you with run times and % output to give you the right FC addition.

After all this is done, and your cell is making chlorine, AND you have passed an OCLT, then you can raise your CYA again. I would not go higher than 60 until you dial in your SWCG and can keep your FC in range. Same basic principle. Add 20ppm of CYA, raise your FC with liquid, and turn up your runtime or % output for the NEW FC range for CYA of 60. Again, this is your friend...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Only after you are comfortable with maintaining the pool, then you can raise your CYA to 70 or 80. If you go there too fast, can't maintain FC, and have to clear the pool of algae, it is much harder...that is why the recommendation to keep CYA a bit lower until you can manage your pool.

Make sense?

You Got This Go Get Em GIF by Shalita Grant
Started the process early this morning. I went ahead and did the full testing for the sake of practicing as this is only my first couple tests ever. Used pool math to help me out, it hasn't been 24 - 48 hours since the CYA has been added so I'm guessing that's why it's testing higher than the target of 40? After the testing I went back out and added liquid chlorine to bring up to the recommended top range. Looks like we are heading the right direction, right? Lol

Ph - 7.6
Cl - 3? (I'm having a rough time with the yellow color block test)
FC - 2
CC - 0
CH - 200
TA - 120
CYA - 50
Salt - 3000
 
Cl - 3? (I'm having a rough time with the yellow color block test)
Ignore the block test and only use the FAS-DPD Powder and drops for FC.

Is the CYA dissolved? How much did you add? Did you do the test outdoors or indoors?

Going in the right direction.
 
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Ignore the block test and only use the FAS-DPD Powder and drops for FC.

Is the CYA dissolved? How much did you add? Did you do the test outdoors or indoors?

Going in the right direction.
Good that's what I wanted to hear , I'll keep using the drops for FC.

Yes I used the sock method as described on the site. I used pool math and added 7 lbs as directed by the app took about 6 hours total (1.5 hours per sock full) for it to dissolve via the sock method. I did the test indoors, the sun had gone down already.
 
CYA is a turbidity test...it needs indirect light. You need to be outdoors. Sun to your back, fill to first line, hold at your waist and GLANCE down the tube. If the dot is obscured, you are done. Take the value on that line and round up 10. If not obscured, fill to next line, etc. until the dot is obscured. Then, round up to the next 10. Dot obscured at 30, your CYA is 40.

To save powder and reagent, use a 10mL sample of water for the FC test. Each drop is .5 FC. Plenty accurate for pool maintenance.

I would test your FC in the morning, and dose again to the top of the range. If you have the time, test FC 30 minutes after your dose and note this FC. Wait until tomorrow evening (close to sunset), and test FC, CYA and Salt again. Note this FC. That is going to give you a sense of your FC demand (Morning FC - Evening FC). Do a final dose of FC to within range. Allow pump to run. Wait until sunset and do the OCLT tomorrow night. Test AFTER sunset and BEFORE sunrise. After sunset test needs to be 30 minutes after last FC addition with pump running. I'd leave pump running overnight, but it needs to run 30 minutes before morning test. OCLT...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you pass OCLT, then fire up that cell!!!! Use pool math to figure out how much FC to generate the ((Morning FC - Evening FC)*1.25) from the previous day.

If you fail OCLT, the follow the SLAM process before you fire up that cell. Link-->SLAM Process

Great JOB!!!! Keep up the pool math logs, really helps us help you.

tom cruise dr dres anatomy GIF
 
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CYA is a turbidity test...it needs indirect light. You need to be outdoors. Sun to your back, fill to first line, hold at your waist and GLANCE down the tube. If the dot is obscured, you are done. Take the value on that line and round up 10. If not obscured, fill to next line, etc. until the dot is obscured. Then, round up to the next 10. Dot obscured at 30, your CYA is 40.

To save powder and reagent, use a 10mL sample of water for the FC test. Each drop is .5 FC. Plenty accurate for pool maintenance.

I would test your FC in the morning, and dose again to the top of the range. If you have the time, test FC 30 minutes after your dose and note this FC. Wait until tomorrow evening (close to sunset), and test FC, CYA and Salt again. Note this FC. That is going to give you a sense of your FC demand (Morning FC - Evening FC). Do a final dose of FC to within range. Allow pump to run. Wait until sunset and do the OCLT tomorrow night. Test AFTER sunset and BEFORE sunrise. After sunset test needs to be 30 minutes after last FC addition with pump running. I'd leave pump running overnight, but it needs to run 30 minutes before morning test. OCLT...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you pass OCLT, then fire up that cell!!!! Use pool math to figure out how much FC to generate the ((Morning FC - Evening FC)*1.25) from the previous day.

If you fail OCLT, the follow the SLAM process before you fire up that cell. Link-->SLAM Process

Great JOB!!!! Keep up the pool math logs, really helps us help you.

tom cruise dr dres anatomy GIF

You've been amazing so far and I cannot thank you enough. So I added some more salt according to the app as well as just dosed some FC to get to the desired high range for CYA. I'm going to test here in about an hour for the OCLT and I'll report back tomorrow!
 
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You've been amazing so far and I cannot thank you enough. So I added some more salt according to the app as well as just dosed some FC to get to the desired high range for CYA. I'm going to test here in about an hour for the OCLT and I'll report back tomorrow!
Great job!

Set your alarm early. Sunrise in NM is 5:50 am. Need to get that morning test in before sunrise, and make sure pump runs 30 minutes before you test.

Lil Kim Typography GIF by Feibi McIntosh


:nopic:
 
Geez, my wife would love that waterslide structure. I better not let her see this thread. $$$$ :)

Now that you've passed the OCLT, you can safely increase the CYA a bit more to help protect the FC from that brutal NM sunshine. Take it up to 70 if you wish, or if you're nervous about over-shooting, add 10 ppm worth of stabilizer and re-test in a couple days. Good job. :goodjob:
 
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Geez, my wife would love that waterslide structure. I better not let her see this thread. $$$$ :)

Now that you've passed the OCLT, you can safely increase the CYA a bit more to help protect the FC from that brutal NM sunshine. Take it up to 70 if you wish, or if you're nervous about over-shooting, add 10 ppm worth of stabilizer and re-test in a couple days. Good job. :goodjob:
Haha we love it too, but yes $$$$ is correct!

So it looks like my daily FC loss/demand is around 3.5 however I only had 44oz of liquid chlorine left which I added and pool math says it should raise it to 5. I have now powered on the SWG and got green LEDs which is great! My question is, could I run the pump all night and hope the SWG brings it up a bit to get to the high end (7) for my CYA of 50? If so, does the SWG produce more chlorine if the flow rate is higher or does it not matter what rpms I run it at?

I will work on getting the CYA up over the next couple of days but I need to know if I need to go buy some more liquid chlorine tomorrow.

Lastly any links on some literature or threads that can help me understand how much run time I need on my pump and what percentage I need to have the output on the SWG?
 
My question is, could I run the pump all night and hope the SWG brings it up a bit to get to the high end (7) for my CYA of 50? If so, does the SWG produce more chlorine if the flow rate is higher or does it not matter what rpms I run it at?
Sure, great test! Flow rate does not matter. Turn the pump down until the SWCG goes off. Add 200rpm and run there. This gives a bit of protection if the filter gets dirty.
Lastly any links on some literature or threads that can help me understand how much run time I need on my pump and what percentage I need to have the output on the SWG?
Use Effects of Adding in the menu on pool math. Configure your cell, play around with runtimes and %. I would recommend, if you have a VSP, run 24x7 at low speed and enough output to put 3.5FC * 1.25 = ~4.5FC. Adjust from there.
 
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Sure, great test! Flow rate does not matter. Turn the pump down until the SWCG goes off. Add 200rpm and run there. This gives a bit of protection if the filter gets dirty.

Use Effects of Adding in the menu on pool math. Configure your cell, play around with runtimes and %. I would recommend, if you have a VSP, run 24x7 at low speed and enough output to put 3.5FC * 1.25 = ~4.5FC. Adjust from there.
Dang looks like it will be running quite a bit and at a high output based on the app if solely relying on the SWG. I'm guessing this will change once I get the CYA and other levels in the pool up to where they need to be?
 
Dang looks like it will be running quite a bit and at a high output based on the app if solely relying on the SWG. I'm guessing this will change once I get the CYA and other levels in the pool up to where they need to be?
Maybe, what cell do you have? Better yet, fill out your signature. We recommend a cell that is 2x your pool size for this exact reason. Do you have a vsp?

 
I thought I had my signature set up? It shows the info on my side next to my username? (Screenshot below) Anyhow, I have a Pentair WhisperFlo VST and a Pentair iChlor 30. Both of which were the recommendations of the pool installers (which based on my overall satisfaction with them is probably wrong lol)
1000002278.png
 

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