I am confused about recommended TA levels

[JRzMom]

The TA is a bit high in my pool (110) while pH seems to stay pretty stable (7.2 to 7.4). Calcium is low (10), CSI is -1.5, and I have a vinyl liner, so calcium shouldn't be a concern anyway. I read an article here that said:

There are two reasons to lower your Total Alkalinity
1. to slow down the rate that the pH rises or
2. if high TA is contributing to a high calcium saturation index (CSI) which puts you at risk of calcium scaling.
You do not need to lower TA just to reach a target number. Make sure you actually have one of the above issues before lowering your TA!

So - I shouldn't worry about it, right? I suppose I hate seeing that red exclamation mark on my Pool Math app.

 

[Texas Splash]

I shouldn't worry about it, right?

Correct. You're fine.

 

[PoolStored]

Just manage your pH, TA isn't a big concern. Over time, your TA should come down, depending on how much fill water you add for evaporation, it may add TA. When your TA gets to 60-80, don't force pH down to 7.2-7.4...pH will likely settle about 7.8-8.0.

 

[jgofnj]

The TA is a bit high in my pool (110) while pH seems to stay pretty stable (7.2 to 7.4). Calcium is low (10), CSI is -1.5, and I have a vinyl liner, so calcium shouldn't be a concern anyway. I read an article here that said:

There are two reasons to lower your Total Alkalinity
1. to slow down the rate that the pH rises or
2. if high TA is contributing to a high calcium saturation index (CSI) which puts you at risk of calcium scaling.
You do not need to lower TA just to reach a target number. Make sure you actually have one of the above issues before lowering your TA!

So - I shouldn't worry about it, right? I suppose I hate seeing that red exclamation mark on my Pool Math app.

You are right about the calcium not being an issue for vinyl liner but some would say if you have a heater (which is looks like you do) you should get the calcium to around 200.

 

[mknauss]

You are right about the calcium not being an issue for vinyl liner but some would say if you have a heater (which is looks like you do) you should get the calcium to around 200.

They show an electric heater. Not gas. So the exchanger does not need the calcium in the water.

 

[JimMarshall]

They show an electric heater. Not gas. So the exchanger does not need the calcium in the water.

I'm not doubting you, but could you explain why it matters for a gas heater but not an electric?

 

[mknauss]

Gas heater manufacturers run their warranty based on steam boilers. Old steam boilers needed a bit of calcium to build up on the fire tubes to inhibit corrosion. It sort of applies to the copper exchangers in a gas pool heater. But in reality, your pool water chemistry is much better than the water used in steam boilers, or at least should be. Non gas heaters typically use titanium or other metal exchanger.

 

[jgofnj]

They show an electric heater. Not gas. So the exchanger does not need the calcium in the water.

My bad. I should have said to look at the manual to confirm. Thanks - learn something new everyday.

 

[JimMarshall]

Gas heater manufacturers run their warranty based on steam boilers. Old steam boilers needed a bit of calcium to build up on the fire tubes to inhibit corrosion. It sort of applies to the copper exchangers in a gas pool heater. But in reality, your pool water chemistry is much better than the water used in steam boilers, or at least should be. Non gas heaters typically use titanium or other metal exchanger.

Interesting. Thanks for another piece of (mostly) useless knowledge to squirrel away in my brain.