Playing Pool Boy For My Parents - Winter Garden, FL

[s0cr4t1c]

Hey there fellow cement pond enthusiasts! Recent lurker, first time poster here.

My parents just filled their brand new, 20k gallon plaster pool back in January. Being that they’re retired, they decided to manage the pool themselves, which has turned into yours truly becoming the de facto pool boy. I’ve learned so much from this forum over the last couple of months as I try to wrap my head around this pool chemistry stuff, so thank you to all who have contributed.

I’ve already started using a Taylor 2006 kit as I quickly learned just how useless test strips and store results are. I think we have things dialed in pretty nicely, mostly just adding acid weekly to counteract rising pH and occasionally adding baking soda to correct the resulting lower alkalinity.

My next project is figuring out the best daily schedule for the VSP. It’s currently running at 2200rpm, 8 hours/day with the SWG (Jandy TruClear) set at 40%. I’m thinking of installing a flow meter because the SWG lacks a flow switch. I know it can chlorinate down to 20gpm, but I have no idea what our flow rate is at different RPM and I don’t want to rely on the gas trap to kill the cell if I go too low. I know the risk of a big ba da boom is low, but I don’t want the liability of blowing up my parents’ new pool equipment.

Most recent test results below:

FC: 5
CC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 80
CH: 300
CYA: 60
Salt: 3200

And for no particular reason, attached are photos of my cats. You’re welcome.

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

There is just no reason to have a flow gauge...

I'm pretty sure your SWCG has a flow sensor of some type, and if you lower the RPM your SWCG system will show a "low flow' warning.

Tell us if you have a heater.
Tell us what specific pump you have.

I have a 3 HP IntelliFlo pump, and no heater, and run most of the time at 1200 RPM, and this is plenty for my SWCG and Skimmers to work.

I also run 24/7, because I like to make a little chlorine all the time and I like skimming all the time. I also like the look of my pool when there is a little motion in the water.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[s0cr4t1c]

S,

There is just no reason to have a flow gauge...

I'm pretty sure your SWCG has a flow sensor of some type, and if you lower the RPM your SWCG system will show a "low flow' warning.

Tell us if you have a heater.
Tell us what specific pump you have.

I have a 3 HP IntelliFlo pump, and no heater, and run most of the time at 1200 RPM, and this is plenty for my SWCG and Skimmers to work.

I also run 24/7, because I like to make a little chlorine all the time and I like skimming all the time. I also like the look of my pool when there is a little motion in the water.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I’ve added our specs to my signature.

The concern I have with relying on the SWG to tell me when the flow is too low is that it uses a gas trap. Detecting the accumulation of explosive gas is less than ideal, IMO. Again, I know it’s a remote possibility… I just wish the TruClear used a proper flow switch.

 

[ajw22]

The concern I have with relying on the SWG to tell me when the flow is too low is that it uses a gas trap.

A gas trap is more reliable then a mechanical paddle flow switch many other SWG's use. I would not worry about it.

That said, a flow meter does nothing to prevent a SWG running with no or low flow. If you really feel you need it then you can wire in an external flow switch like used for heaters in place of the heater pressure switch. Read Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading

 

[s0cr4t1c]

A gas trap is more reliable then a mechanical paddle flow switch many other SWG's use. I would not worry about it.

That said, a flow meter does nothing to prevent a SWG running with no or low flow. If you really feel you need it then you can wire in an external flow switch like used for heaters in place of the heater pressure switch. Read Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading

So would you recommend that I back down the RPM until I get a no flow warning from the SWG? Then add a couple hundred RPM and use that as my low speed setting for most of the day with a couple hours at higher speed for more effective skimming?

Can I do the same thing with the heater? Back down the RPM with it running until I get it into standby due to low flow?

I know the heater requires 30gpm and the SWG 20gpm. Hence my thought of adding a flow meter to take out the guess work. But if I can just back down RPM until each one shuts off, I guess it would save us some $.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I know the heater requires 30gpm and the SWG 20gpm.

S,

Well, in "theory"... but in real life, your SWCG may come on with less flow or it might take more flow in your pool with your plumbing..

I'll take the actual results over what the manual says everyday...

If you have a heater, you will have to run faster to make the SWCG work.. Heaters add restrictions to the water flow..

I'd do as you suggested and see what numbers you get, RPM wise.. I suspect that once you find the SWCG +200 RPM, that will also. work fine for the heater as well as skimming..

I used to run faster for "better" skimming, but found it made no actual difference, in my pool.

That said, I like your idea of experimenting and seeing what works and what does not work, rather that looking at a number printed in a book and just using it.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Like Jim said, try it and see what works for your pool. Every pool is different.

Do you have an Aqualink? I don't see an automation system listed in your signature.

 

[s0cr4t1c]

Like Jim said, try it and see what works for your pool. Every pool is different.

Do you have an Aqualink? I don't see an automation system listed in your signature.

Yes, AquaLink. Speaking of that, I have never been able to access the web version of the app. It always says that our system is offline. Only the mobile app works, but that doesn’t seem to give us full system settings. Any ideas?

Edit : Alexa skill also doesn’t work.

 

[ajw22]

Yes, AquaLink. Speaking of that, I have never been able to access the web version of the app. It always says that our system is offline. Only the mobile app works, but that doesn’t seem to give us full system settings. Any ideas?

Do you have a blue or white iAqualink antenna that says iAqualink? iAqualink uses a different antenna then the Aqualink PDA system.

Do you have an Aqualink PDA or Aqualink RS system?

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[s0cr4t1c]

Do you have a blue or white iAqualink antenna that says iAqualink? iAqualink uses a different antenna then the Aqualink PDA system.

Do you have an Aqualink PDA or Aqualink RS system?

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I believe we have an AquaLink TCX. Looks like this one on Jandy’s website:

 

[ajw22]

I believe we have an AquaLink TCX. Looks like this one on Jandy’s website:

I see no indication that iAqualink Web Connect works with the Aqualink TCX system. TCX has its own app UI and it looks to have different controls then the iAqualink RS.

You can ask your Pool Builder or Jandy Support if there is something not in their web site or manual.

Add "Aqualink TCX" to your signature.

 

[ajw22]

Do you show an AMBER or GREEN connection LED on your TCX Command Hub?

 

[s0cr4t1c]

Do you show an AMBER or GREEN connection LED on your TCX Command Hub?

View attachment 560321

Both. LAN is amber, WEB is green.

 

[dba58]

Hey there fellow cement pond enthusiasts! Recent lurker, first time poster here.

My parents just filled their brand new, 20k gallon plaster pool back in January. Being that they’re retired, they decided to manage the pool themselves, which has turned into yours truly becoming the de facto pool boy. I’ve learned so much from this forum over the last couple of months as I try to wrap my head around this pool chemistry stuff, so thank you to all who have contributed.

I’ve already started using a Taylor 2006 kit as I quickly learned just how useless test strips and store results are. I think we have things dialed in pretty nicely, mostly just adding acid weekly to counteract rising pH and occasionally adding baking soda to correct the resulting lower alkalinity.

My next project is figuring out the best daily schedule for the VSP. It’s currently running at 2200rpm, 8 hours/day with the SWG (Jandy TruClear) set at 40%. I’m thinking of installing a flow meter because the SWG lacks a flow switch. I know it can chlorinate down to 20gpm, but I have no idea what our flow rate is at different RPM and I don’t want to rely on the gas trap to kill the cell if I go too low. I know the risk of a big ba da boom is low, but I don’t want the liability of blowing up my parents’ new pool equipment.

Most recent test results below:

FC: 5
CC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 80
CH: 300
CYA: 60
Salt: 3200

And for no particular reason, attached are photos of my cats. You’re welcome.

I'm extremely low tech so I don't understand your water chem talk but I am big time fur baby lover, like your baby pics.