Flow switch replacement

The switch is just open/closed and the paddles allow you to adjust the flow trigger level.

So, it will probably work if you trust the part.

Parts like that might need to be UL certified for use on pool systems, but I do not know.

It looks like a cheap Chinese part.

I would not recommend it.

Maybe see what Raypak says.
 
Thank you for your input much appreciated
I really didnt have high hopes for the cheap flow switch, but it would have been nice to save the money fo other things.
I searched on ebay and found another switch that seems compatible, F61KB
But this one has 3 wires and the raypak only has 2, am i correct to think that i can just connect the red and yellow wires so that when sensor detects as3equate water flow it closes the circuit and allow the heater to operate ?
 

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Thank you for your input much appreciated
I really didnt have high hopes for the cheap flow switch, but it would have been nice to save the money fo other things.
I searched on ebay and found another switch that seems compatible, F61KB
But this one has 3 wires and the raypak only has 2, am i correct to think that i can just connect the red and yellow wires so that when sensor detects as3equate water flow it closes the circuit and allow the heater to operate ?
How much voltage is being switched? How much water flow? Which heater?
The F61KB is by Johnson Controls, a very widely used line of products used by industry worldwide. If the Raypak is merely "open/close" the Johnson Control should work with two wires. Be sure that the flow sensitivity is set according to the heater's required flow.
 
How much voltage is being switched? How much water flow? Which heater?
The F61KB is by Johnson Controls, a very widely used line of products used by industry worldwide. If the Raypak is merely "open/close" the Johnson Control should work with two wires. Be sure that the flow sensitivity is set according to the heater's required flow.
Its a gas fired millivolt raypak 206a heater
I cant find enough information about heater circuit voltage, all i know is that its supposed to be 24v but ac or dc i cant confirm, also i read other posts that millivolt heaters have very small colt around 200-400 mv but maybe thats for the pilot and thermopile.
The raypak original part is for $105 and the flow cant be adjusted but the johnosn controls os for $35 and its industrial quality and can adjust the flow but i read in the manual thats its 110v not 24v.
 

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It is able to handle up to a 120V circuit.
Your heater cannot be a millivolt and 24V. If it is, indeed a millivolt heater (has a continuous pilot light), you don't need so robust a flow switch. One like referenced below, installed in a 2"X3/4"FIPX2" tee and then tapped into the pressure switch circuit, will do wat you want. You would cut the "phone" plug off the wiring and use the two wires to install into the circuit. You can do the same thing with a 24V heater. These flow switches are used for salt-water generators, but can be used for other applications.

 
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Thank you for you suggestion, i think i will go with your suggestion, its much cheaper than raypak flow switch.
My heater is indeed millivolt it has no power supply and it has manual control knob not the digital control. I just bought this old heater from a friend for a very cheap price and i am trying to make it work, unfortunately where i live they are very expensive new and all the parts prices are triple the price in US so i have to bring them over from abroad.
Thank you all for helping out
 
Thank you for you suggestion, i think i will go with your suggestion, its much cheaper than raypak flow switch.
My heater is indeed millivolt it has no power supply and it has manual control knob not the digital control. I just bought this old heater from a friend for a very cheap price and i am trying to make it work, unfortunately where i live they are very expensive new and all the parts prices are triple the price in US so i have to bring them over from abroad.
Thank you all for helping out
Is an external flow switch required for some reason? The heater comes with a pressure switch to determine whether there is sufficient flow. That may be all that you need. The pressure switch is located in the inlet/outlet manifold. This one should work:
 
Is an external flow switch required for some reason? The heater comes with a pressure switch to determine whether there is sufficient flow. That may be all that you need. The pressure switch is located in the inlet/outlet manifold. This one should work:
I think according to manual yes because my filter pumps are in underground room below water surface by maybe 7 ft and the heater is outside above the pumps by around 10ft and above water level by 3ft
 

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