Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?

The thread title is "Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?".
Yes, the title seems fitting. My pool has become stained with copper. Both the copper annd CYA levels anre through the roof. At first I thought the copper source may have been my gas heater but newdude suspected I might be using pucks with copper and he is right. I can’t see how the gas heater could be the primary copper source. Those Clorox XtraBlue pucks made the plaster look like Crud with dingy purple stains everywhere.
 
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Why are you considering a Pentair IC40 SWG?
Does your pool have automation (Easytouch, Intellitouch or Intellicenter)?
 
Those Clorox XtraBlue pucks made the plaster look like Crud with dingy purple stains everywhere.
Purple is probably copper cyanurate.

Copper can form many different compounds.

Copper stains can be green/blue, turquoise, black, purple etc. depending on the various compounds that the copper complexes with.

Copper cyanurate is a combination of copper and cyanuric acid.
 
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Why are you considering a Pentair IC40 SWG?
Does your pool have automation (Easytouch, Intellitouch or Intellicenter)?
I’m open to suggestions.

I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.

I will start a new thread asking for advice on a good SWG setup. Maybe you can offer advice?

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I really appreciate all of your help!
 
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I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.
All manufacturers have similar problems and failure rates in the grand scheme of things. But good luck telling someone with a leaking Pentair pump that theirs is a one-off issue and the overwhelming majority are working flawlessly. He's going to Hayward for a new pump. Lol.

Hayward SWG setups are battle tested and approved by literal millions of happy users.

That said, I was given Pentiar by my PB, so I'm a lifer on their team. even when he had switched to Jandy the second time around. I told him no thanks and I'd get it myself.

That that said, Circupool is hard to beat when you don't have automation (brand) concerns. They have equal or better production, better warranties and are cheaper.
 
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I’m open to suggestions.

I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.

I will start a new thread asking for advice on a good SWG setup. Maybe you can offer advice?

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I really appreciate all of your help!
There are several options.
I like my Circupool RJ45+. Others here have had good luck with them as well. There are several sizes of the RJ series SWG. They work well for a non-automated system. Possible, the RJ30+ would suit your needs.

Whatever SWG you decide on, don't clean it just because the controller or manual says to. And if the cell actually does need cleaning, use vinegar instead of an acid/water mixture. Keepimg your CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negatife 0.30) range will minimize cell scaling. Consistent testing and dosing will go a long way towards cell longevity.
 
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I’m open to suggestions.

I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.

I will start a new thread asking for advice on a good SWG setup. Maybe you can offer advice?

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I really appreciate all of your help!
One more vote for the SWCG. Maintenance and testing is exactly the same as a normal chlorine pool just less hassle doing it since the chlorine gets added automatically for you.
 
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For heaters with a copper heat exchanger, low pH water can eat away the copper and it ends up in the water.
And since the pool guys didn't bother to put a check valve between the heater and inline chlorinator, an acidic stew could have easily flowed back into the heater when the pump is off.
When you replumb it, add a proper heater bypass - whether you also install a SWG or not.

Also - when backwashing, put a drain hose on the backwash pipe or plumb that pipe with PVC to a better location to discharge the water. Discharging at it's present location will eventually cause erosion issues in and around the equipment pad and house foundation.

The inline chlorinator should also be removed. If you need to use tabs, get a floater for the pool instead.
 
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For heaters with a copper heat exchanger, low pH water can eat away the copper and it ends up in the

There are several options.
I like my Circupool RJ45+. Others here have had good luck with them as well. There are several sizes of the RJ series SWG. They work well for a non-automated system. Possible, the RJ30+ would suit your needs.

Whatever SWG you decide on, don't clean it just because the controller or manual says to. And if the cell actually does need cleaning, use vinegar instead of an acid/water mixture. Keepimg your CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negatife 0.30) range will minimize cell scaling. Consistent testing and dosing will go a long way towards cell longevity.
Hi Proavia, I just now ordered a CircupoolRJ60+ from the folks at Circupool.com. The 7 year warranty, the price, and the experience I had when I spoke with circupool sold me on your recommendation. Thanks again to you and the others in this group for sound advice!
 
One more vote for the SWCG. Maintenance and testing is exactly the same as a normal chlorine pool just less hassle doing it since the chlorine gets added automatically for you.
Yeah, you and this group convinced me to go back to a SWCG. I ordered a Circupool60+. I will plumb it myself but will have an electrician wire it up. I don’t mess with electric wiring.
 
Have you you already received your test kit? It would be good to know where your pH and TA really are to be able to start getting them back in range to stop the copper corrosion in the heater.

If TA really was zero, then pH would actually be below 4.5. Leslie's reports corrected Alkalinity, which is a marketing stint, and because of the high CYA the corrected Alkalinity looks low. Corrected Alkalinity is only an intermediate value required for calculation of the Calcium Carbonate Saturation Index, apart from that it is not required and should remain hidden in their computer software, not visible to the customer. Just creates confusion.

But pH and TA can indeed crash with trichlor use if TA is not properly maintained with baking soda, so we need reliable test results from your kit, at the moment we are more or less blind there.
 
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Has your test kit arrived yet?
Post a full set of current test results from your TF-Pro Salt. Put the results in PoolMath (as you have already linked PoolMath to your forum account) and let us know here that you posted results.
 
Have you you already received your test kit? It would be good to know where your pH and TA really are to be able to start getting them back in range to stop the copper corrosion in the heater.

If TA really was zero, then pH would actually be below 4.5. Leslie's reports corrected Alkalinity, which is a marketing stint, and because of the high CYA the corrected Alkalinity looks low. Corrected Alkalinity is only an intermediate value required for calculation of the Calcium Carbonate Saturation Index, apart from that it is not required and should remain hidden in their computer software, not visible to the customer. Just creates confusion.

But pH and TA can indeed crash with trichlor use if TA is not properly maintained with baking soda, so we need reliable test results from your kit, at the moment we are more or less blind there.
The test kit arrived today. PH showed 6.5 as I did an acid wash 15” along the top walls while the water was low. I used three gal of MA in the process. I will test TA tomorrow and will let you know.

I did a total of four water changes this week of about 30-40% each.

I also tested chlorine and it was low at 0.5. I added about 20oz of chlorine and will test that again tomorrow.

I started the jacks magic regimen Wednesday evening (2 days ago). Leslie test was early Wednesday before my test kit arrived. Thanks again!IMG_3509.jpegIMG_3510.jpeg
 
Do a full set of tests in the morning and post them to PoolMath

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp
Salt
I’ll be sure to do all of these tests and will post the results here tomorrow.

Here are a couple details I can share already.

SWG
The Circupool60+ was delivered yesterday but I haven’t installed it yet.

Salt
I have 7 bags of salt that I bought at my local P-a-P. I haven’t added the salt to the pool yet so the salt level won’t be in range.

Water temp
I don’t have a pool thermometer but I live in Tampa and the water is still plenty warm enough to swim in if it weren’t for the copper treatment. I would guess the temp is around 75 degrees right now. I read that a SWG won’t function well below a certain threshold.

Thanks
 
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