The thread title is "Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?".They are Clorox XtraBlue chlorinating tablets. How did you you know?
The thread title is "Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?".They are Clorox XtraBlue chlorinating tablets. How did you you know?
The title was updated since I made my guess.The thread title is "Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?".
Yes, the title seems fitting. My pool has become stained with copper. Both the copper annd CYA levels anre through the roof. At first I thought the copper source may have been my gas heater but newdude suspected I might be using pucks with copper and he is right. I can’t see how the gas heater could be the primary copper source. Those Clorox XtraBlue pucks made the plaster look like Crud with dingy purple stains everywhere.The thread title is "Clorox XTRABlue trashed my pool?".
Purple is probably copper cyanurate.Those Clorox XtraBlue pucks made the plaster look like Crud with dingy purple stains everywhere.
I’m open to suggestions.Why are you considering a Pentair IC40 SWG?
Does your pool have automation (Easytouch, Intellitouch or Intellicenter)?
All manufacturers have similar problems and failure rates in the grand scheme of things. But good luck telling someone with a leaking Pentair pump that theirs is a one-off issue and the overwhelming majority are working flawlessly. He's going to Hayward for a new pump. Lol.I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.
There are several options.I’m open to suggestions.
I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.
I will start a new thread asking for advice on a good SWG setup. Maybe you can offer advice?
Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I really appreciate all of your help!
One more vote for the SWCG. Maintenance and testing is exactly the same as a normal chlorine pool just less hassle doing it since the chlorine gets added automatically for you.I’m open to suggestions.
I never liked the Hayward SWG I had 9 years ago. It had circuit board problems and was probably undersized. On the other hand, I own a Pentair vs supperflow plump and it has always worked flawlessly.
I will start a new thread asking for advice on a good SWG setup. Maybe you can offer advice?
Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I really appreciate all of your help!
For heaters with a copper heat exchanger, low pH water can eat away the copper and it ends up in the water.I can’t see how the gas heater could be the primary copper source.
And since the pool guys didn't bother to put a check valve between the heater and inline chlorinator, an acidic stew could have easily flowed back into the heater when the pump is off.For heaters with a copper heat exchanger, low pH water can eat away the copper and it ends up in the water.
For heaters with a copper heat exchanger, low pH water can eat away the copper and it ends up in the
Hi Proavia, I just now ordered a CircupoolRJ60+ from the folks at Circupool.com. The 7 year warranty, the price, and the experience I had when I spoke with circupool sold me on your recommendation. Thanks again to you and the others in this group for sound advice!There are several options.
I like my Circupool RJ45+. Others here have had good luck with them as well. There are several sizes of the RJ series SWG. They work well for a non-automated system. Possible, the RJ30+ would suit your needs.
Whatever SWG you decide on, don't clean it just because the controller or manual says to. And if the cell actually does need cleaning, use vinegar instead of an acid/water mixture. Keepimg your CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negatife 0.30) range will minimize cell scaling. Consistent testing and dosing will go a long way towards cell longevity.
Yeah, you and this group convinced me to go back to a SWCG. I ordered a Circupool60+. I will plumb it myself but will have an electrician wire it up. I don’t mess with electric wiring.One more vote for the SWCG. Maintenance and testing is exactly the same as a normal chlorine pool just less hassle doing it since the chlorine gets added automatically for you.
The test kit arrived today. PH showed 6.5 as I did an acid wash 15” along the top walls while the water was low. I used three gal of MA in the process. I will test TA tomorrow and will let you know.Have you you already received your test kit? It would be good to know where your pH and TA really are to be able to start getting them back in range to stop the copper corrosion in the heater.
If TA really was zero, then pH would actually be below 4.5. Leslie's reports corrected Alkalinity, which is a marketing stint, and because of the high CYA the corrected Alkalinity looks low. Corrected Alkalinity is only an intermediate value required for calculation of the Calcium Carbonate Saturation Index, apart from that it is not required and should remain hidden in their computer software, not visible to the customer. Just creates confusion.
But pH and TA can indeed crash with trichlor use if TA is not properly maintained with baking soda, so we need reliable test results from your kit, at the moment we are more or less blind there.
I’ll be sure to do all of these tests and will post the results here tomorrow.Do a full set of tests in the morning and post them to PoolMath
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp
Salt
Correct. That occurs with water temperature typically between 50-55F. I doubt your water in Tampa ever gets that cold.I read that a SWG won’t function well below a certain threshold.