Hello all. I'm on my second pool, The first one was a tiny <2000 gal pool and I swore by the BBB method. Now I'm on one that is a tad bigger, around 8900 gallons, and this time I said I wanted a better filter media. So I did a bit of research (not much) and thought that getting zeolite sand would be a good idea. What appealed to me was the 2-5 micron filtering size compared to the 30-40 micron of the sand. But my filter is one speed and I just learned that Zeolite doesn't like fast flow. I went about 3 months without any issues. We went on vacation and got back to a green pool. I thought that would be no issue since I could correct the green pool in about 3 days. Well, it's been 3 weeks. The pool is teal, I've been shocking it almost every day and the bottom still has a bunch of algae, and super cloudy. After some research, I think the culprit is the Zeolite. So tomorrow I'll be getting some plain 'ol pool sand and not the Quickrete kind. Crossing my fingers that solves the issue.
Got Zeolite Sand, thought it would be "BETTER"
- Thread starter jorlando
- Start date
The problem was underchlorinating while you were away. The Zeo is it's own set of minor issues.
Welcome to TFP !!!!
How are you testing?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I agree that the zeo isn’t ideal for a single speed pump situation but it’s not the reason your pool is still green.
For eradication of the algae you need to do the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine following the correct FC/CYA Levels
This is different than just randomly “shocking” the pool.
You must have a Test Kits Compared to complete this task.
For eradication of the algae you need to do the SLAM Process with liquid chlorine following the correct FC/CYA Levels
This is different than just randomly “shocking” the pool.
You must have a Test Kits Compared to complete this task.
So I watched the slam video and I'm keeping the levels up there. I do have a 5 way test kit and take the water to Leslie for double checking. I just see too much green dust or algae still in the zeolite. Even after backwashing for about 10 minutes. And there's only 50# of zeo in it. I just took it out and thoroughly cleaning at the moment.
Should a good rinse be ok to put sand in it or do I need to get all the zeo from the laterals?
Should a good rinse be ok to put sand in it or do I need to get all the zeo from the laterals?
BTW, I'm testing with a 5 way but just bought a fas dpd one, but it's on the way.
You also need a CYA test kit. 
reliable CYA and FC are the keys to the whole shebang.
How Clear is TFP Clear?
reliable CYA and FC are the keys to the whole shebang. How Clear is TFP Clear?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Unfortunately you cannot rely on the Leslies cya test.
You need the turbidity test
tftestkits.net
It really does matter - maintaining too little fc doesn’t quite do the trick & drags things out - too much risks damage to surfaces, equipment, & swimmers
When I replaced my zeo with sand I didn’t rinse the laterals or even remove them fully. I just vacuumed it out, filled 1/2 way with water then carefully put the sand in. Be sure to cover the stand pipe so nothing gets in it. A cup or tape works
You need the turbidity test
Cyanuric Acid (CYA) Test Kit
When I replaced my zeo with sand I didn’t rinse the laterals or even remove them fully. I just vacuumed it out, filled 1/2 way with water then carefully put the sand in. Be sure to cover the stand pipe so nothing gets in it. A cup or tape works
Yes, got one on the way. My CYA was pretty low, so added some stabilizer to raise it to 30 but haven't retested to confirm.You also need a CYA test kit.
How Clear is TFP Clear?
Gotcha! Can I trust a K2006?Unfortunately you cannot rely on the Leslies cya test.
You need the turbidity test
It really does matter - maintaining too little fc doesn’t quite do the trick & drags things out - too much risks damage to surfaces, equipment, & swimmersCyanuric Acid (CYA) Test Kit
View attachment 529624
When I replaced my zeo with sand I didn’t rinse the laterals or even remove them fully. I just vacuumed it out, filled 1/2 way with water then carefully put the sand in. Be sure to cover the stand pipe so nothing gets in it. A cup or tape works
TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD Amazon.com
Bought it and should be here by Friday. I checked the chlorine today after "slamming" it yesterday and it still had over 5.0 FC so adding the stabilizer worked. Still the pool is cloudy. I inspected the laterals and everything looked fine when changing to sand. Just don't know what else could be. What else could be keeping the pool cloudy?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes
That kit has everything you need You may need to order more reagents for the fas dpd sooner as the bottles are a little small.
The cloudiness is probably due to algae.
The SLAM Process will take care of it.
The slam is not a one time addition/raising of fc but MAINTAINING slam level fc for your cya
FC/CYA Levels until you meet all 3 end of slam criteria along with doing all the things.
You are done when:
CC is 0.5 or lower; You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss TestAND
The water is clear.(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)
Do ALL the things
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide {light niches, steps (inside & out), drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, seam flaps, etc.}
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
The SLAM video says that this process is not overnight. I've been slamming for about 5 days and don't see an improvement. The water is blue, just very cloudy.
When we came back from vacation, I shocked the pool and it got clear with all the dead algae on the bottom. I brushed and it got the water cloudy. It hasn't been clear again, and it has been over 2 weeks now. Changed the zeo to sand with no improvement. How do I know that my filter is working? I know the pump is working but for some reason, I don't think it's filtering. I feel like the pump is recirculating instead of filtering. Any ideas would be appreciated.
When we came back from vacation, I shocked the pool and it got clear with all the dead algae on the bottom. I brushed and it got the water cloudy. It hasn't been clear again, and it has been over 2 weeks now. Changed the zeo to sand with no improvement. How do I know that my filter is working? I know the pump is working but for some reason, I don't think it's filtering. I feel like the pump is recirculating instead of filtering. Any ideas would be appreciated.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you don’t have an fas/dpd test yet you’re not yet truly doing the SLAM Process.
You may be raising fc but are unable to accurately determine if it actually reached slam level for your cya and subsequently maintain that fc level multiple times a day.
FC/CYA Levels
Blue is a good sign & sand filters are the slowest to clear even when doing everything right. The slam process can take a week or more to complete depending upon what conditions you start with.
So hold tight until you get your kit & can determine where you truly stand with cya & subsequently fc & cc.
About your filter, if you put the mpv back on in the correct position it should be working properly.
Is the psi increasing?
Is your pressure gauge functional? (Should go to zero when the pump is off)
You should backwash when psi rises 25% over clean pressure.
You may be raising fc but are unable to accurately determine if it actually reached slam level for your cya and subsequently maintain that fc level multiple times a day.
FC/CYA Levels
Blue is a good sign & sand filters are the slowest to clear even when doing everything right. The slam process can take a week or more to complete depending upon what conditions you start with.
So hold tight until you get your kit & can determine where you truly stand with cya & subsequently fc & cc.
About your filter, if you put the mpv back on in the correct position it should be working properly.
Is the psi increasing?
Is your pressure gauge functional? (Should go to zero when the pump is off)
You should backwash when psi rises 25% over clean pressure.
I just vacuumed some bit from the bottom, problem is that I can't see the bottom. So I'm vacuuming blind, but see some very cloudy and yellow stuff. The gauge did increase to about 11, so i'm gonna go ahead and backwash.
Is it ok to SLAM with cal-hypo 53%?
Is it ok to SLAM with cal-hypo 53%?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Not sure where your clean pressure is but if 11psi is 25% more than that it’s time.
Note the clean pressure afterwards.
No- stick with liquid chlorine
For a couple reasons-
1-large doses of cal hypo can cause cloudiness, you already have plenty of that going on.
2- cal hypo adds calcium - calcium doesn’t leave unless you replace water- too much calcium causes scaling
Yes, it starts around 7psi.
I'll start using liquid tonight. Thank you so much for all your help!
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Until you can measure higher fc amounts don’t over do it. No need in damaging your surfaces or equipment or wasting chlorine.
Got the test kit in the mail. CYA 30, FC 5.5 and CC of 1.0. So to continue slamming will continue adding liquid tonight and brushing.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,960
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
How would I know if the
ph: 7.2
TA: 110
CYA: 30
FC: 8.0
CC:0.5
I was going to make a new post for this but I'd figured I post it here. This is the long version of all that I have done so far:
In the beginning with zeolite sand, I arrived back from the trip the pool was dark green. I was triple shocking it with cal-hypo 52%. About 2.5 lbs. The pool got cloudy and blue and in one more day it got very clear with obvious signs of dead algae on the bottom. I should have vacuumed then, but I brushed, backwashed, and rinsed. The pool got it cloudy again and kept shocking, I was trying to get the filter to do its job. Then I saw an Instagram reel about putting small copper parts inside your skimmer which is supposed to kill and avoid algae. I kept shocking about every other day with cal-hypo and the pool at one point turned mustard yellow. I took a sample to Leslie's about a week and a half later and the copper was high, so I took the copper parts out and bought some metal remover from them. Now I got very little copper in the water (within range). But still, the water is cloudy.
Then I started researching and learned about Zeolite and how hard it is. I tried washing the Zeo and doing extended backwashes. The sand had this green film at the top, and I kept trying to wash it out, to no avail. Sometime about this time I found the hack about the magic eraser, so I put them in the skimmer. Those lasted about 2 weeks before I threw them away. So we decided to change to sand. I changed it and now I got the FASDPD test kit and we are slamming with liquid chlorine. Unfortunately, we are still dealing with a cloudy pool. I know this process takes time, but I see no progress. The pool is blue but very cloudy. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
CH: 17-180
ph: 7.2
TA: 110
CYA: 30
FC: 8.0
CC:0.5
I was going to make a new post for this but I'd figured I post it here. This is the long version of all that I have done so far:
In the beginning with zeolite sand, I arrived back from the trip the pool was dark green. I was triple shocking it with cal-hypo 52%. About 2.5 lbs. The pool got cloudy and blue and in one more day it got very clear with obvious signs of dead algae on the bottom. I should have vacuumed then, but I brushed, backwashed, and rinsed. The pool got it cloudy again and kept shocking, I was trying to get the filter to do its job. Then I saw an Instagram reel about putting small copper parts inside your skimmer which is supposed to kill and avoid algae. I kept shocking about every other day with cal-hypo and the pool at one point turned mustard yellow. I took a sample to Leslie's about a week and a half later and the copper was high, so I took the copper parts out and bought some metal remover from them. Now I got very little copper in the water (within range). But still, the water is cloudy.
Then I started researching and learned about Zeolite and how hard it is. I tried washing the Zeo and doing extended backwashes. The sand had this green film at the top, and I kept trying to wash it out, to no avail. Sometime about this time I found the hack about the magic eraser, so I put them in the skimmer. Those lasted about 2 weeks before I threw them away. So we decided to change to sand. I changed it and now I got the FASDPD test kit and we are slamming with liquid chlorine. Unfortunately, we are still dealing with a cloudy pool. I know this process takes time, but I see no progress. The pool is blue but very cloudy. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.