RJ-60+ Installation

[SJPoe]

Couple questions before I start cutting pipes

Pump and filter sit under the deck today, and that's fairly convenient for power etc, and is where the plumbing enters/exits the ground.Heater sits about 20 feet way, outside of the fenced area, and out from under the deck. Was the only place we could put it that satisfied code etc.
Plan next year is to replace the ancient AC compressor and put the new one onto this same pad, as it's currently under the deck, which is wrong in so many ways.
The Puck-feeder was installed when they put the heater in, before I found TFP, and has never had a puck in it.


Left pipe is FROM the pump/filter - Right side is out to the pool (nothing after this).
There is not enough vertical height to fit the SWG cell in the existing down pipe (A) with the required 12" free-flow, and would be tight after the existing bottom 90 too (26" total there before the fence - (B) ) and there is no pipe to join to there anyway.

Thinking replace the down-90 (C) after the check valve (I think there is just enough pipe to work with there) with a horizontal 90 'away' from the fence, then a 90/90 to take it back toward the fence with enough room to install the cell, flow switch etc. Is there any issue with the cell being out in the sun ? The Control unit would be mounted to the wall to the left of the heater.

Other than that, water balance seems ready to go - my CYA is a little low (have some stabilizer marinating in a sock as we speak) and TA is a little high - not sure if I should be overly concerned with that other than just add a little acid and let it work it's way down.

FC : 7
CC: 0
CYA : 60
PH: 7.5
TA: 120
CH: 75
SALT : 3600
TEMP : 88

 

[BDY]

Not commenting on the rest of it but many jurisdictions you can’t put a combustion source near an AC. You may want to verify you can actually put the AC there if you haven’t already

 

[PoolStored]

Is there any issue with the cell being out in the sun ? The Control unit would be mounted to the wall to the left of the heater.

Will age faster in the sun. RJ is designed for outdoor installation and operation.

Other than that, water balance seems ready to go - my CYA is a little low (have some stabilizer marinating in a sock as we speak) and TA is a little high - not sure if I should be overly concerned with that other than just add a little acid and let it work it's way down.

Just manage pH and TA will take care of itself.

Good to go, install as you designed should work well...

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Thinking replace the down-90 (C) after the check valve (I think there is just enough pipe to work with there) with a horizontal 90 'away' from the fence,

There are lots of ways to skin a cat, but this may save you a bit of work: Instead of removing the the C-90, loosen the union at the heater and rotate the assembly clockwise. You can clock the 90 in any direction you want. The check valve will turn, but the window doesn't need to face up.

Are you removing the chlorinator? I would. If so, try pointing C to the 4:30 position at a 45 degree angle. See if you can fit the cell there at the 45 degree angle.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is there any issue with the cell being out in the sun ?

Not really, but there are ways to address that easily if you want to later. This is how I take the heat off of my unit.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

BTW, you may know this, but if you remove the chlorinator, which you should, you will no longer need the check valve. Once removed, you may be able to fit the flow switch there.

 

[SJPoe]

Not commenting on the rest of it but many jurisdictions you can’t put a combustion source near an AC. You may want to verify you can actually put the AC there if you haven’t already

Good thought. There is sufficient space further to the right if needed, best I could find locally is access to the disconnects, rather than any specific rule about separation. Worst case, I can have a new pad put in for the AC unit assuming we get around to it.

There are lots of ways to skin a cat, but this may save you a bit of work: Instead of removing the the C-90, loosen the union at the heater and rotate the assembly clockwise. You can clock the 90 in any direction you want. The check valve will turn, but the window doesn't need to face up.

Good to know - that would make things a little easier - and give me some extra pipe to work with

Are you removing the chlorinator? I would. If so, try pointing C to the 4:30 position at a 45 degree angle. See if you can fit the cell there at the 45 degree angle.

Yes. The intent was to remove that completely. Rotate C to 4:30, put a 45 in at B and fit the cell/switch in between - I like that idea...assuming my PVC cut and glue skills are up to it

BTW, you may know this, but if you remove the chlorinator, which you should, you will no longer need the check valve. Once removed, you may be able to fit the flow switch there.

I kinda like the 'comfort factor' of having the check-valve after the heater, just to eliminate any chance of back-feed, but I'm guessing that the FC/Acid levels from the SWG are so much lower than they would have been from the chlorinator, that any concern on the backfeed is eliminated anyway ?

Not really, but there are ways to address that easily if you want to later. This is how I take the heat off of my unit.

A SWG-Shade - nice !

Will age faster in the sun. RJ is designed for outdoor installation and operation.

Just manage pH and TA will take care of itself.

Good to go, install as you designed should work well...

K. Need to get a couple meetings done today, then time to start cutting !!

Thanks to all !!!

 

[BDY]

You might find the regs on the heater / combustion side of the regs not on the AC side. That may be why AC is silent

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I'm guessing that the FC/Acid levels from the SWG are so much lower than they would have been from the chlorinator, that any concern on the backfeed is eliminated anyway ?

Correct. There's no harm keeping the check valve there if you can fit the flow switch elsewhere.

 

[PoolStored]

I'm guessing that the FC/Acid levels from the SWG are so much lower than they would have been from the chlorinator, that any concern on the backfeed is eliminated anyway ?

How could your cell produce anything if your installation includes a flow switch (secondary safety) AND you have a wired your SWCG and pump together so that if pump turns off, the cell turns off (primary safety). How are you turning off cell when pump stops pumping?

 

[mknauss]

I kinda like the 'comfort factor' of having the check-valve after the heater, just to eliminate any chance of back-feed, but I'm guessing that the FC/Acid levels from the SWG are so much lower than they would have been from the chlorinator, that any concern on the backfeed is eliminated anyway ?

There is no backfeed. If the SWCG is off, there is nothing there. There is no Acid involved with a SWCG. The FC level coming from a SWCG is only a couple points higher than the pool volume FC. All the check valve does is increase back pressure.

 

[SJPoe]

There is no backfeed. If the SWCG is off, there is nothing there. There is no Acid involved with a SWCG. The FC level coming from a SWCG is only a couple points higher than the pool volume FC. All the check valve does is increase back pressure.

Bad choice of phrasing I guess. The original reason why the check-valve was installed was backfeed from the Chlorinator (prob when the pump shuts off). That concern is obviously eliminated with an SWG because there is no marinating pile of pucks that could wash back. So, I get the "just remove it altogether" thought.

How could your cell produce anything if your installation includes a flow switch (secondary safety) AND you have a wired your SWCG and pump together so that if pump turns off, the cell turns off (primary safety). How are you turning off cell when pump stops pumping?

Well, VSP pump is on a timer switch, but the timer doesn't ever turn off any more, as the schedule is controlled by the pump (today) and/or automation (tomorrow), rather than the on/off of the old single speed.
That said, the plan is to connect the SWG to a smart outlet that can also be turned on/off by the automation that will control the pump - so it will be tied to the pump operation, and also able to alert me should the SWG circuit go out (GFI etc). I'm hoping I can tune the output of the SWG down enough that I can simply run the pump 24x7.


If the Pump is off deliberately ( i.e. via automation), the smart outlet should be off too, and the flow switch should also be off. (Primary and Secondary protection)
If the pump is off accidentally (due to power on that circuit or manually stopped), the flow switch should not engage and the SWG would be off (same as the heater today - Secondary protection)
If the SWG circuit is off, I should get alerted via automation that I'm not making chlorine...hopefully before levels drop too low (also hopefully before the wife alerts me that the pool is cold...the heater control panel is the same circuit - Wife Aggro Protection).

 

[SJPoe]

Done! Well, mostly.
Having finally got a couple free hours to work on it, it was pretty straightforward. Power to the unit will be redone at the weekend once my smart outlets arrive, at which point I'll tidy up all the cables too. Removed the unnecessary check valve while I was at it.

 

[PoolStored]

I thought earlier to tell you to support the PVC! Nice!