L-shaped pool build progress

Get a robot cleaner. They do a better job and you don't have to pay for a 2nd booster pump, so it will be a bit cheaper. You just need a place to plug it into somewhat near the pool, but the electrician can probably add an outlet if needed for a few $100 when doing your pool electricity.

+1 on the salt water. Most builders push back on them for some reason, likely because they don't get as big of a commission as the other things like UV, Ozone, intelliPh, etc.

On the elevation, I like how yours is the same level as the house. Steps from the patio to the pool are great toe stubbers, plus they limit where you can put your patio furniture.
 
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I found this forum and have been managing my own pool since built. you can do this!!

The salt cell is more upfront cost but less cost over time and easier than daily chemicals once you dial it in. You would need to be comfortable testing your own pool (easy to do) and adding what is needed.

Look at

Pool Care Basics
How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
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+1 on robot

If not too much more consider plumbing a dedicated vacuum line to pad for a manual vacuum. They can swap the booster pump line with that and you have flexibility in future for any future owners plus then the ability to manually vacuum if needed without skimmer plates

Just a thought as I’m spending your money 😂
 
DEL UV-C 50 Ultraviolet Sanitizer
POWERCLEAN ULTRA VS INLINE Chlorine Tablet FEEDER 2
Intelli PH Systems and Intelli chlor w-cell Sanitizer - this is what PB listed.
Just need to have clarity on your sanitization system. Your original post at top indicated a UV system with an Inline chlorine tablet feeder.
Then in post #12 it was indicated the Intelli pH and Intelli Chlor Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG)

Maybe the PB has made the change which is great if you are going with a SWCG. We recommend 2x your pool volume. So the Pentair IC20 would be best for your pool and will give you lots of flexibility on pump run times and % output of the SWCG cell.

There are mixed reviews with the Intelli pH system. If you have to cut budget then that is not necessary. You will need add Muractic Acid manually - which most of us do - and that is not difficult.

You will be using the new IntelliFlo3 pump with its own builtin automation. So the SWCG will need to hook up to that but the PB will (should) handle that process.

I do not see there is a heater - You can always add that later and maybe with under 6000 gals you may not need it, but if you think that is something that could be added later, then plan for it now by making the equipment pad (cement deck) larger to accommodate it.

I am not a robot cleaner fan, but for your size pool, I think that would be best and it does avoid purchasing a booster pump.
However, I also like the idea of running a suction line for a suction type cleaner. It is cheap insurance to run the line now and you have that capability if needed in the future if you either wish to switch to a suction-side vacuum or need to manually vacuum and it is an easy connection to set that up rather than through the skimmer.

It is also important to have all of these changes documented in a final contract before signing. Don’t rely on verbal agreements.
Also, your payment schedule is VERY important to negotiate. Hold back 10% to the very, very end. This is when the pool is complete, the water is in and balanced and all the little things (on your punchlist) have been completed.

Good Luck and keep us posted.
 
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Okay so a sun shelf it is then! How deep will it be? Make sure to talk about WATER depth for it and the pool. Some people do depth from the coping to the bottom of the pool. WATER depth is from the middle of the skimmer to the bottom of the pool. That could be anywhere from 3 to 5 inch difference.
 
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As you are talking about sizing the equipment i atill am hung up on 5k
Volume.

Given 26’ long
Widths 7.5, 9, and 13’
Depth 3.5 to 5.5

If I take off 8’ for sun shelf, ignore the extra 4’ at the end and just do 18x9 at average depth of 4.5 I get 5500 gallons.

At the end you have the drawings but just be sure the SWG is at least 2x whatever the final volume is and the cartridges are the right size.

How many returns and drains will you have besides the skimmers?
 
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As you are talking about sizing the equipment i atill am hung up on 5k
Volume.

Given 26’ long
Widths 7.5, 9, and 13’
Depth 3.5 to 5.5

If I take off 8’ for sun shelf, ignore the extra 4’ at the end and just do 18x9 at average depth of 4.5 I get 5500 gallons.

At the end you have the drawings but just be sure the SWG is at least 2x whatever the final volume is and the cartridges are the right size.

How many returns and drains will you have besides the skimmers?
I will check on this, the math is so tricky and the builder could very well have miscalculated. I do have a new bid that I like much better, (bigger pool at 7,513-gallon and much less cost) I will post that shortly too. I'm just now compiling all the helpful tips from this thread to ask the builder about them. Many thanks!!!
 
Hello my TFP friends,
Thank you so much for all your feedback, I feel a lot more well-informed and excited to move forward after learning so much from here.
Pool build update - I decided on a different builder that offered me a bigger pool with a lesser price tag. Both builders are well reputable in the North Austin, TX area and have been around for decades. The one that I am choosing is about 20k less. I also like the design better, though it is very similar to the very first one I posted. This is bigger at 30.5 x 9.6 x 14.5 (two different varying widths in L shape). Let me know what you think!!

General specs:
Pool Shape: Geometric
Max. Pool Water (ft.): Width 14.5; Length 30.5; Total Perimeter(ft): 89
Est. Total Surface Area: 318 ;
Estimated Pool Depth: 3'6" to 5'6"to ft.;
Est. Gallons: 7, 513(Total Surface Area x Avg. Depth x 7.5)
Coping: 1.25" Travertine
Tile: Fit the interior 6” water line of the pool, standard, frost-proof
Interior finish: Stone scape mini
Sun shelf 9.5 linear ft with umbrella shelf
Filter system: 460 sq ft, Jandy, Cartridge
Plumbing for future automatic pool cleaner.
Pool Pump: 1.85HP Jandy VSP
Sanitization: Truclear Salt Cell
No heater
Pool cleaner: Polaris Epic 8520 Robotic
Lighting: 24w Colored LED lights (3)
Skimmer: 1; Return lines: 4
Water features: 2 bubblers
 

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Sanitization: Truclear Salt Cell
No heater
Do not get the Truclear as it has had reliability issues. Get the AquaPure 700 rated for 12k gals or to make using the SWCG even more flexible get the AquaPure 1400 rated for 40k gal. being bigger is not an issue but just a little more cost.

You may want to have the equipment pad made larger for an addition of a heater later. With under 8k gals, it would be easy to heat the pool with a natural gas heater if you ever decide to need one. So have a place for it on the equipment pad. The plumbing can be redone to incorporate it at that point.
 
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Do not get the Truclear as it has had reliability issues. Get the AquaPure 700 rated for 12k gals or to make using the SWCG even more flexible get the AquaPure 1400 rated for 40k gal. being bigger is an an issue but just a little more cost.

You may want to have the equipment pad made larger for an addition of a heater later. With under 8k gals, it would be easy to heat the pool with a natural gas heater if you ever decide to need one. So have a place for it on the equipment pad. The plumbing can be redone to incorporate it at that point.
Hello,
Thanks for the tip! I've already asked for an equipment pad made larger for an addition of a heater later, as this was suggested earlier :) I do love my hot water so this is very, very likely to come! I will research and ask the builder about your recommendations, hopefully it wont cost too much, I def want something reliable for SWCG. Thanks!
 

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PPS - you’ll want an overflow line if it’s not in the fine print aomewhere. And if you have gutters and French drains you can run the overflow there… (at least in Houston..not totally sure about Austin code)
 
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It’s hard to tell from the picture but you may have rain water from the roof entering the pool and if you don’t already have rain gutters you may want to consider them and if that’s the case if you have down spouts on the post they will need to be bonded to the pool, just something to think about prior to decking.
There are two rain gutters not pictured and the builder are rerouting them both bec they are both pointing towards the pool.
 
I asked for that! The builder told me they have a new tech and these skimmers are supposedly so efficient that I only need one.
Yeah, the advancement of skimmer technology, using AI design, has far surpassed years of evidentiary experience...

Insist on 2 skimmers.
 
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PPS - you’ll want an overflow line if it’s not in the fine print aomewhere. And if you have gutters and French drains you can run the overflow there… (at least in Houston..not totally sure about Austin code)
I asked about this too and supposedly it’s against code, something about the chlorine water and how it can’t or shouldn’t go to the grounds…? Or did I misunderstand something?
 
I asked about this too and supposedly it’s against code, something about the chlorine water and how it can’t or shouldn’t go to the grounds…? Or did I misunderstand something?
There are local regulation where the overflow/backwash from pools can go...search your local regulations...
 
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Ok, then the overflow has got to go somewhere. Ask where the overflow goes. Otherwise running out to drain your pool in the rain is something I would be very frustrated with. Perhaps others in Austin have a suggestion
 
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