I know - but what makes it think it's one mode or the other? I thought that the panel selection was disabled when I replaced the board since I'm controlling it via the easytouch.
Heater whining
- Thread starter doncaruana
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, the panel keys are not disabled by the EasyTouch once the EasyTouch turns the heater on.
The heater should be left in SPA mode and set to 104F while under EasyTouch control but you can change it.
Last edited:
I was talking about this. I did read on another thread though that it doesn't matter which "mode" it's on because it's being controlled by the easytouch anyway.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You are likely using the 2-wire fireman’s switch control and not the 3 wire external control.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,342
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The mode you are in matters for the maximum temperature setting.
The heater comes factory set with a maximum temperature set point at 78° F (25.6 c). for the pool mode and 100° F (37.8 C) for the spa mode. The Installation Manual describes how to increase the maximum temperature set point of the pool and spa. It involves unbolting and removing the door panels, accessing the control panel board on the underside of the top cover, and locating the yellow button on the corner of the control board.
The heater comes factory set with a maximum temperature set point at 78° F (25.6 c). for the pool mode and 100° F (37.8 C) for the spa mode. The Installation Manual describes how to increase the maximum temperature set point of the pool and spa. It involves unbolting and removing the door panels, accessing the control panel board on the underside of the top cover, and locating the yellow button on the corner of the control board.
So how does one tell it whether to be in spa mode or pool mode then? Pressing the pool on or spa on buttons did nothing even when it was responding. Same for the temperature buttons or the off button.
I honestly don't remember but I think it's probably the 2-wire control.
It worked before, so it should work again.
What position is the JMP in?
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
What position is the JMP in?
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
So, looking through my own history, I found that it's using the 2-wire connection. I don't remember the last time I tried to use the membrane panel though. I did, however, see that's a low cost replacement. Once everything is copasetic, I may tackle that. But in honesty, in normal operation, I have no need to use that panel.
Some additional follow-up on this...
I know that I'm paying closer attention now than I would have last year or before, but I do think this is different behavior. As I reported after the 2nd regulator, I hear the sound loud and clear when the heater is first engaging standing next to it. But this morning I was in the basement and I could hear a muffled version of that sound (presumable the sound/vibrations traveling down the gas pipe) for a bit after the initial start. It lingered longer (several minutes) but it did also go away.
With all that as the background...I did get ahold of Pentair today. They told me they had no specs or tolerances on the regulator but that everything I described (we even talked about the exhaust temp) pointed toward the thermal regulator. I even asked if they thought it might be the bypass valve (which I have, along with gaskets, on order as a backup) and they said no. So...they are sending me a new thermal regulator to give that a run. As an aside, I also have a new membrane on order as well.
I'll report back when I have more info.
I know that I'm paying closer attention now than I would have last year or before, but I do think this is different behavior. As I reported after the 2nd regulator, I hear the sound loud and clear when the heater is first engaging standing next to it. But this morning I was in the basement and I could hear a muffled version of that sound (presumable the sound/vibrations traveling down the gas pipe) for a bit after the initial start. It lingered longer (several minutes) but it did also go away.
With all that as the background...I did get ahold of Pentair today. They told me they had no specs or tolerances on the regulator but that everything I described (we even talked about the exhaust temp) pointed toward the thermal regulator. I even asked if they thought it might be the bypass valve (which I have, along with gaskets, on order as a backup) and they said no. So...they are sending me a new thermal regulator to give that a run. As an aside, I also have a new membrane on order as well.
I'll report back when I have more info.
Of course they have specs.
It’s right in the manual and stamped on the part.
You can’t make a product without specs.
Both say 120 F, so that it the spec.
If it is not open at 120, it is out of spec and defective.
Latest update:
Got a whole new unit from Pentair and it tested exactly the same temperature wise. I thought maybe the spring might be affecting things so I replaced all of it (which they sent me) including the cap.
No change really. At times it will run without the whine and other times it won't. I suspect the colder the water initially the more likely it is to whine.
I haven't replaced the touch pad yet, been super busy with the rest of my life. But I also suspect it's just not getting the water hot enough. Could the whole unit be failing?
Not sure what to do at this point other than live with it? Really doesn't seem like it's the manifold to me (is that wrong?). Or I guess I could just flat out remove the regulator. I know other manufacturers don't even have one or don't care if you remove it.
Got a whole new unit from Pentair and it tested exactly the same temperature wise. I thought maybe the spring might be affecting things so I replaced all of it (which they sent me) including the cap.
No change really. At times it will run without the whine and other times it won't. I suspect the colder the water initially the more likely it is to whine.
I haven't replaced the touch pad yet, been super busy with the rest of my life. But I also suspect it's just not getting the water hot enough. Could the whole unit be failing?
Not sure what to do at this point other than live with it? Really doesn't seem like it's the manifold to me (is that wrong?). Or I guess I could just flat out remove the regulator. I know other manufacturers don't even have one or don't care if you remove it.