Heater whining

You should also check the exhaust gas temperature during operation.

Excessive temperatures indicate low water flow.

Exhaust Gas Temperature.​

While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
  • Below 250 degrees...very low
  • 250 to 290 ..................low
  • 290 to 350.................acceptable
  • 350 to 480 ..................high
  • Above 480...................error/shutdown.
Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher. HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.

I did this without the regulator for a couple of minutes. It got to 230 I think, although it was dark out. I don't have any error lights or anything on. Maybe it was 290? How long should I wait to let it get up to temp (I had just started it up so this was in the first few minutes). I can try again in the morning but what would this mean if it was low (and wouldn't I have the service heater light on?)
 
Check the temperature again since you are not sure what the reading was.

It should get up to temperature within about 30 seconds.

You can check it after a few minutes to see if it is staying at the same temperature.
 
If the temperature is too low, it won't give an error.

However, it would probably error out due to flame sensing because a low temperature is probably due to a weak flame.
The only lights on it right now are heating and spa on. Held the spa button down for a few and got 267.

This doesn't solve my whistling but would the normal operating range likely be high enough to open the regulator even if it's only 130? Also... What do I do about this? The heater isn't heating enough? It seems to be working about like normal now with the regulator out - brought the temp up from 68 to 71 in less than 2 hours this morning...
 

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Whistling can also be a gas problem. Was a manometer used to check the gas valve at static and while running to verify the psi. The heater label should state the specifications for it. What color is the flame.
 
Whistling can also be a gas problem. Was a manometer used to check the gas valve at static and while running to verify the psi. The heater label should state the specifications for it. What color is the flame.
Didn't do any of that or look at the flame. Currently, with the regulator out, there is no whistling/whining. I would assume if it was a gas problem, it would persist with or without the regulator in?
 

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15,400 gallons is 128,436 lbs.

A 250,000 btu/hr heater at 84% efficiency provides 210,000 btu/hr to the water.

So, you should get 1.6 degrees per hour.

Watch the gas meter.

You should use about 250 cubic feet per hour for the heater.
That's about what I get actually. I've always got around 1.5 degrees per hour. Looking at the history from screen logic, getting one degree every 40 minutes.

In the meantime, got a new regulator and doesn't seem to be any different. :(
 
Does it open 100% at 120 degrees?

What is the flow rate?

What is the stack flue temperature with the regulator in?
Don't really have any way to calculate flow rate I know of. At 120 degrees it won't open - not until it gets to 130. Same as the other one. I'm at my inlaws doing water glass tests because the store is a 45 minute drive from me, but right by my inlaws
 
At 120 degrees it won't open
The book says that if it is not open at 120 degrees to replace it.

The part says 120 F stamped right on the part, so that is when it needs to open.

It does not say 121 degrees or 122 degrees or 130 degrees.

Maybe contact Pentair to see what they say.

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Don't really have any way to calculate flow rate I know of.
You can put the system in Service Mode to use the control panel on the pump to calibrate the flow at different speeds.

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The book says that if it is not open at 120 degrees to replace it.

The part says 120 F stamped right on the part, so that is when it needs to open.

It does not say 121 degrees or 122 degrees or 130 degrees.

Maybe contact Pentair to see what they say.

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You can put the system in Service Mode to use the control panel on the pump to calibrate the flow at different speeds.

View attachment 494412

I'm with you on the stamp!

As far as the pump, I don't recall have anything with gpm but I'll have to look closer. I don't think my model has that - it's vs not vsf
 
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Okay... So... New regulator installed anyway. And I heard the whine... As the heater engaged! And then it went away! Running normally! So either my testing sucks, the first one was bad anyway, or I didn't get it seated good when I installed the first one.

In the meantime, my panel is extremely finicky and I'll be darned if I can get the flue temp to come up again. I even had my wife come and try a few times ("use a different finger", "try a different angle", and so on). But the original problem seems to be gone!

Once again I owe tfp and it's denizens so much, especially you @JamesW
 
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I replaced the board in 2020, don't think I did the pad. :(. It worked this morning and last night even. But this afternoon it just would not respond. The one odd thing is that it says "Spa On" and it actually should be heater mode. Not sure exactly why that would be. What is it that tells it what "mode" it should think it's in?
 
SPA ON says it is in Spa mode. The two modes are SPA or POOL.
 

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