Pump slowly losing prime

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C

cwozniak

Member
May 9, 2023
23
Houston, TX
Hi,

I am having a slow air bubble appear in my filter lid after replacing my pool pump. If the water isn't full and I turn on the pump it never reaches full prime. However, if I backwash it for about 15 seconds, it will fully prime with no bubbles and I can turn off the pump, go back to filter and then turn on the pump and it will keep prime initially. Over time the air bubble grows (see attached pictures after about an hour and a half)

I have tried soap bubble and incense testing to try to find an air leak with no success. When I did the pipes I did a half in turn to spread the glue to make sure there were no gaps and the Jandy Valve is brand new installed too.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what this might be?

Chris
 

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What speed are you running the pump?

An air bubble often forms in a VS pump run at low speed. It is not a problem if the pump does not lose prime and cavitate.

Does the air bubble clear when you run the pump at a higher speed? Schedule the pump to run at a higher speed every day for a while to clear the air bubble.
 
ajw22 said:
What speed are you running the pump?

An air bubble often forms in a VS pump run at low speed. It is not a problem if the pump does not lose prime and cavitate.

Does the air bubble clear when you run the pump at a higher speed? Schedule the pump to run at a higher speed every day for a while to clear the air bubble.
Click to expand...
It's running at 3000rpm, which I believe is the highest. After about 5 hours running the bubble was slightly bigger, covering the whole lid area
 
You should not get an air bubble at that speed.

Does the pump actually lose prime?
 
How many skimmers do you have?

It sounds like your skimmers cannot give enough water flow to the pump.

What model and HP pump did it replace?

What is your skimmer water level?

Check that your weir doors are not blocking water into your skimmer.
 
Forgive me if I'm wrong but am I seeing a greenish tint to the water in the pump? When's the last time you deep cleaned the filter? If you've got an algae problem brewing it will clog a DE filter quickly and could contribute to the air bubble.
 
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ajw22 - 1 Skimmer and a drain at the bottom of the pool. I believe it was a Pentair, but I know for sure it was a 1HP Single Speed. The water level is good, however I dont believe they installed weir doors on the skimmer. I constantly have to clean out the skimmer basket due to leaves. But currently it is clear.

Kaylee24, yes there is an algae problem. As I was reading more threads I started thinking this could be an issue and am going to work on cleaning everything Thursday when the thunderstorms are hopefully gone. I will report back!
 
cwozniak said:
ajw22 - 1 Skimmer and a drain at the bottom of the pool. I believe it was a Pentair, but I know for sure it was a 1HP Single Speed. The water level is good, however I dont believe they installed weir doors on the skimmer. I constantly have to clean out the skimmer basket due to leaves. But currently it is clear.

Kaylee24, yes there is an algae problem. As I was reading more threads I started thinking this could be an issue and am going to work on cleaning everything Thursday when the thunderstorms are hopefully gone. I will report back!
Click to expand...
You'll need to get weir doors when you can for good skimming action. Water going over the door provides more "suction" power to pull in the floating stuff. They also stop stuff from going back into the pool from the skimmer area.

If you have algae, you need to SLAM. Follow the process here: SLAM PROCESS
Have you good a good test kit of your own? You'll need it to SLAM properly. Strips and pool store test results are garbage so please don't trust them.
If you post up current test results we can help you get that pool sparkling and teach you how to keep it that way easily.

A DE filter will clog very quickly if you have algae. Ask me how I know! :ROFLMAO: You're going to need to backwash frequently. Once the pressure gets to 10% above normal with a clean filter it's time to backwash. You may need to do a deep cleaning once you're done slamming. If you haven't pulled the grids or finger assembly and given them a good soak and cleaning in awhile, I'd do that when you have time. If you need help with any of this, holler back.
 

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We highly recommend the Taylor K-2006C test kit which is available on Amazon or one of the TF test kits that you can find here: TFTestKits. The TFPro is a favorite here since it comes with the smartstir and the extra reagents you'll need for testing when you SLAM. You really can't maintain your own pool without a quality kit. I have the TFPro myself and it was hands down the BEST money I spent when I first found myself with a pool and totally clueless what to do with it.

You'll want to read here: Pool Chemistry to learn the basics. It really is easy!
Also, for a little help with that DE filter cleaning go here: Filter Cleaning and great detailed info here: DE Filter Care

What type of pool do you have? Fiberglass, gunite, liner? Equipment other than the new pump? If you'll edit your signature to include all that info, it will really help everyone guide you correctly. You need to get some chlorine in the pool to start killing all that algae.

Let me shout out to one of the super guides here to come lend you a hand. @PoolStored rocks the SLAM process :)
 
Hi @kaylee

I cleaned the filter and the pump primed almost immediately. its been 30 minutes only but so far the pump is still full, will check in a few hours.

Here is my godawful results, most of it wasn't on the charts...
Free Combined & Total Chlorine < 1-2
Total Bromine < 1-2
PH > 8.0
Acid Demand Test 5 drops
Total Alkalinity 6 drops X 10 - 60
Calcium Hardness 23 drops x 10 - 230
CYA = 14ml (It wasnt cloudy at all)
 
Super deal! Glad that helped. (y)
What's your filter pressure now? Make note of it cause it's important. When the pressure rises 10%, it's time to backwash.

Where did these test results come from? Did you order a good kit yet? You can't depend on pool store test results. They're horribly inaccurate and I won't speak to the chemical stew they'll have you dump in your pool to "fix" your water. You need to SLAM and the PH is too high. You need to get that down in the 7's.

Let me see if a couple of the experts @Texas Splash @PoolStored can come help you with that chemistry.
 
I'm catching up on this one, but have the following notes to add:
- It's sounding like a SLAM Process process is in order correct? If so, start by lowering your pH to about 7.2. You can use muriatic acid. The PoolMath APP can help with dosage amounts.
- The Taylor kits doesn't record a CYA lower than 30, so it must be very low. Plan on adding 30 ppm of stabilizer via the sock method. Once that is in the water, let's consider your CYA as 40 for now. That means your FC SLAM level needs to be 16. Hopefully the Taylor test kit you have is the K-2006 that contains the FAS-DPD (powder & drops) to test FC at that level. If not let us know.
- We generally recommend backwashing when the filter pressure increases by about 25%, so that should give you a little more time between backwashes, but not much. Those DE grids fill up fast.
- You did put pool lube on that new pump lid O-ring correct?

Since you seem to have achieved better luck with a cleaner filter, let's focus on the water chemistry for now. Ensuring you have no algae is important to good water circulation before we go chasing down any other issues. Just check periodically on the pump to ensure it doesn't go dry.

If you have any other questions let us know.
 
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the PoolMath APP into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After about 30 minutes of soaking, squeeze the sock continuously to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
Texas Splash said:
I'm catching up on this one, but have the following notes to add:
- It's sounding like a SLAM Process process is in order correct? If so, start by lowering your pH to about 7.2. You can use muriatic acid. The PoolMath APP can help with dosage amounts.
- The Taylor kits doesn't record a CYA lower than 30, so it must be very low. Plan on adding 30 ppm of stabilizer via the sock method. Once that is in the water, let's consider your CYA as 40 for now. That means your FC SLAM level needs to be 16. Hopefully the Taylor test kit you have is the K-2006 that contains the FAS-DPD (powder & drops) to test FC at that level. If not let us know.
- We generally recommend backwashing when the filter pressure increases by about 25%, so that should give you a little more time between backwashes, but not much. Those DE grids fill up fast.
- You did put pool lube on that new pump lid O-ring correct?

Since you seem to have achieved better luck with a cleaner filter, let's focus on the water chemistry for now. Ensuring you have no algae is important to good water circulation before we go chasing down any other issues. Just check periodically on the pump to ensure it doesn't go dry.

If you have any other questions let us know.
Click to expand...
Hi @Texas Splash

I will get some muriatic acid tomorrow to add to the pool. If I am meant to be running the filter 24/7 during this process how should I handle the pump pressure raising while sleeping / at work?

I did not get the test kit with FAS-DPD. Should I order that separately?
 
cwozniak said:
If I am meant to be running the filter 24/7 during this process how should I handle the pump pressure raising while sleeping / at work?
Click to expand...
Unless you have a SWAMP, you should be ok for 10-12 hours. How long does it take for the pressure to rise 25%?
cwozniak said:
I did not get the test kit with FAS-DPD. Should I order that separately?
Click to expand...
What test kit did you order? If you want to order just the FAS-DPD it is K-1515-A or K-1515-C (C size is commercial, just larger reagent size and likely the better deal).

Depending on what you have, it may just be better to order the entire kit...see this link...Link-->Test Kits Compared
 
cwozniak said:
Its hitting that in about an hour - hour and a half
Click to expand...
Can you post a picture of your pool? Is it a green swamp?

Can you fill out a bit more information on your pool in your signature? Don't want to assume it is a plaster pool, in-ground. Size/make/model of your filter makes a difference.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

With a DE filter, and a very green pool, it may be that you need to baby sit it more frequently...
 

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