empty salt H20 pool down clean out vs washing machine. hose vs 1.5" vs 2" hose

Did you add any muriatic acid to lower the pH to 7.2-7.3?
Doing so will help lower your TA as well.
Your TA goal is 60.
When the pH gets to 7.7-7.8, lower the pH again to help lower the TA from 80 to 60.

Don't forget, evaporation is high with our high temps, low humidity and ~40*F day/night temperature swings.
You are adding high TA fill water to make up for the evaporation, which will raise the overall TA of the pool water.
 
For the ph test- use a white background. It really helps.
I use the blank browser page on my phone. It’s my cheapo version of the fancy white backlight they use in a lab. 😁
After a couple more rounds of letting the ph rise to 8 & then lowering it with acid you’ll be at the 60 ta sweet spot 👍🏻
Let fc fall to 10 before adjusting ph.

I use my google calendar for reminders- I prefer it over the iPhone calendar.
everything is an “event” & different colors for certain things- so I don’t think there’s a limit or I would have hit it by now lol 😂
IMG_6029.png
My alarms are for the daily stuff- like don’t forget the kids at school! 😂
Poolmath has customizable reminders too but I have never used them- hit the ⚙️ to get to them.
IMG_6031.png
 
For the ph test- use a white background. It really helps.
I use the blank browser page on my phone. It’s my cheapo version of the fancy white backlight they use in a lab. 😁
After a couple more rounds of letting the ph rise to 8 & then lowering it with acid you’ll be at the 60 ta sweet spot 👍🏻
Let fc fall to 10 before adjusting ph.

I use my google calendar for reminders- I prefer it over the iPhone calendar.
everything is an “event” & different colors for certain things- so I don’t think there’s a limit or I would have hit it by now lol 😂
View attachment 487385
My alarms are for the daily stuff- like don’t forget the kids at school! 😂
Poolmath has customizable reminders too but I have never used them- hit the ⚙️ to get to them.
View attachment 487389
thx for sharing! I use google calendar for work, some kids stuff, keep a paper planner also, and then have a word doc and I've been trying google keep for kid's lists... 3 kids so each kid has a list and then there's lists for all 3 kids. I have way too many lists and reminders! Then there's the alarm. I need them, though, and they help. I don't know anyone who's alarm goes off as much as mine. I was looking into other organizational apps but I can't learn another thing right now so it'll have to just be these that I've settled on.

I use a white background. I'm not sure why I had so much trouble last night and tonight figuring out the pH.
I'm looking forward to the sweet spot :).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Did you add any muriatic acid to lower the pH to 7.2-7.3?
Doing so will help lower your TA as well.
Your TA goal is 60.
When the pH gets to 7.7-7.8, lower the pH again to help lower the TA from 80 to 60.

Don't forget, evaporation is high with our high temps, low humidity and ~40*F day/night temperature swings.
You are adding high TA fill water to make up for the evaporation, which will raise the overall TA of the pool water.
I thought I'd wait until today cuz at first the pH seemed like 7.5 then I was very confused and couldn't tell. I looked at it for quite a while. today I got to it just when it was getting dark. It was still not very easy to tell for some reason so I'm sticking with 7.7 and will add MA now.
 
fc16
cc0.5
pH7.5
TA80
CYA60
Temp90
CSI-0.30

Does your pool have a heater we don't know about?
Do you have a solar cover installed?
How did you measure a water temp of 90 degress?
Given the outside temps for the last two weeks, it's virtually impossible for your pool temp to be 90 without heating the pool water.

Don't forget, with FC >10 the pH test isn't valid.

How many hours per day is the SWG running?
What is the SWG percentage?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Does your pool have a heater we don't know about?
Do you have a solar cover installed?
How did you measure a water temp of 90 degress?
Given the outside temps for the last two weeks, it's virtually impossible for your pool temp to be 90 without heating the pool water.

Don't forget, with FC >10 the pH test isn't valid.

How many hours per day is the SWG running?
What is the SWG percentage?
I do not have a pool heater. no solar cover. The pool was not running when I took the water temperature. I am not home right now but I believe the temperature I am telling you is the one that says "water temp." There are 1 or 2 more choices, one being "cell temp."

I had made notes in pool math when I turned my temperature down from 65 to 50% from what I recall. Should I turn it down to 35%?

I'll get back to you soon on how often pool runs
 
T1 - 3am to 7pm ..... or did you mean 7am?

Any chance you can figure out how to change the pump speed percentage to RPM?
Then try running at 2900 or 3000 rpm for 4 hours and the rest of the time at the minimum (plus 200 rpm) to make your SWG flow switch close.
I think you are wasting money running at a higher rpm than necessary. Of course, your pool, your electric bill, your choice.

Do NOT use the water temp reading from the automation. Chances are it reads falsely high as the water in the piping is exposed to the outside air temps. It will be even higher when sitting stagnant in the pipes when the pump is off. Use a pool thermometer. And don't do any testing or take any readings without the pump running for at least 20-30 minutes prior.

My pool temp is around low to mid 70's in the morning and about 80 by 4pm without the solar cover on.

You can turn the SWG down to 25% to 30% to get the FC back within range - or at least below 10. Just use care to test FC each day to monitor FC - as you don't want to fall below target.

Additionally, with a tested CYA of 60 - add enough stabilizer to get to CYA 70.
 
T1 - 3am to 7pm ..... or did you mean 7am?

Any chance you can figure out how to change the pump speed percentage to RPM?
Then try running at 2900 or 3000 rpm for 4 hours and the rest of the time at the minimum (plus 200 rpm) to make your SWG flow switch close.
I think you are wasting money running at a higher rpm than necessary. Of course, your pool, your electric bill, your choice.

Do NOT use the water temp reading from the automation. Chances are it reads falsely high as the water in the piping is exposed to the outside air temps. It will be even higher when sitting stagnant in the pipes when the pump is off. Use a pool thermometer. And don't do any testing or take any readings without the pump running for at least 20-30 minutes prior.

My pool temp is around low to mid 70's in the morning and about 80 by 4pm without the solar cover on.

You can turn the SWG down to 25% to 30% to get the FC back within range - or at least below 10. Just use care to test FC each day to monitor FC - as you don't want to fall below target.

Additionally, with a tested CYA of 60 - add enough stabilizer to get to CYA 70.
oops, yes, 7am. I hate it when the techs change the RPMs to percentage. I didn't think of that when they put in the new cell and board. I tried to look at how to change it to RPMs but couldn't figure it out. I'll see if I can find something online or maybe someone will chime in here.

I changed SWG to 30% and will look on amazon for a thermometer. for now the pool has been running and says cell 74 degrees and water temp 74. I'll add 19 oz stabilizer.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
oops, yes, 7am. I hate it when the techs change the RPMs to percentage. I didn't think of that when they put in the new cell and board. I tried to look at how to change it to RPMs but couldn't figure it out. I'll see if I can find something online or maybe someone will chime in here.

I changed SWG to 30% and will look on amazon for a thermometer. for now the pool has been running and says cell 74 degrees and water temp 74. I'll add 19 oz stabilizer.

See @JamesW excellent instructions above to change the pump from percentage to rpm.

You can grab a pool thermometer from Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart or Target too - but Amazon will work also. Just a simple thermometer you can leave in the pool. Mine is tied to my aerator fitting on the side of the pool.
Temperature of 90° vs 74° will affect the CSI. A relatively accurate temp is needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: outdoorsgal
oops, yes, 7am. I hate it when the techs change the RPMs to percentage. I didn't think of that when they put in the new cell and board. I tried to look at how to change it to RPMs but couldn't figure it out. I'll see if I can find something online or maybe someone will chime in here.

I changed SWG to 30% and will look on amazon for a thermometer. for now the pool has been running and says cell 74 degrees and water temp 74. I'll add 19 oz stabilizer.
If you have a digital meat thermometer it will do!
 
  • Like
Reactions: outdoorsgal
A cheap ($10 or less) pool thermometer has close enough accuracy.
You need to know the temp of the water in the actual pool - not in the pipes.
If you have a digital meat thermometer it will do!
As long as it's instant read - I don't want to have to hold it in the water for any length of time. :poke:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
A cheap ($10 or less) pool thermometer has close enough accuracy.
You need to know the temp of the water in the actual pool - not in the pipes.

As long as it's instant read - I don't want to have to hold it in the water for any length of time. :poke:
I have this one
IMG_6041.jpeg It works great in the pool,hot tub, fridge freezer, or of course steak!
I have an analog floating thermometer but I use this to double check/get a more accurate measurement & when the cover is on since I stick my arm through the skimmer hole 😂
 
  • Like
Reactions: proavia
thx much for this. my buttons r on the panel, not the pump. my buttons look different. I tried <> together several times and it's not working. I held the 2 buttons together several times and for at least 30 seconds. I believe I've made this change before with my old motherboard.

Do you know if the< button is supposed to work to scroll? That button never works. maybe that button is defective?
I have a prologic. An ecostart must be a different system? maybe that's why?
 
Is it possible to put the Pro Logic in Service Mode?
If so, you should then be able to control the pump directly from the controller on the pump.
Maybe setting it diredtly at the pump and then turn Service Mode off so control returns to the Pro Logic.

What @JamesW provided appears specific to the EcoStar pump that you have.
 
Is it possible to put the Pro Logic in Service Mode?
If so, you should then be able to control the pump directly from the controller on the pump.
Maybe setting it diredtly at the pump and then turn Service Mode off so control returns to the Pro Logic.

What @JamesW provided appears specific to the EcoStar pump that you have.
I did try to put it in service mode as well. I also tried it with the pump on and off. I didn't realize the pump had the ability to do anything at the pump. Let me look at it again
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.