When is good time to open on Eastern Long Island this year?
- Thread starter pgershon
- Start date
Lol. I was *thisclose* yesterday. I was draining because it was full again and it wasn't going to take all that much longer to open it the rest of the way.
We have lots of time with a frozen Nor'Easter on the way. I'll probably go for it the beginning of April. If we get any cold spells after that they'll be over quick and by the time the ground freezes it'll be over already.
We have lots of time with a frozen Nor'Easter on the way. I'll probably go for it the beginning of April. If we get any cold spells after that they'll be over quick and by the time the ground freezes it'll be over already.
Nor easter supposed to be all rain here. But I hear you, if I open, we will get our cold and ice. April it is. Probably right after Mets opener - that is Spring enough...
- Jul 8, 2013
- 342
- Pool Size
- 17280
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
I couldn't take it anymore. Opening today. Starting a new thread with some questions on open. (new thread moved to below)
Last edited:
I was going to wait until next week, but the forecast has no nights below freeing coming up and I can't stand looking at the green pool. Next year I will add chlorine during the winter. I keep pool uncovered and kept up removing leaves through late December, but the residual falloff collected in the pool in January and February and March. I am attaching picture and listing my steps taken so far. My concern is that the pH shot up a lot during the winter (it was 7.5 or so when I closed). It's now 9.6 (on my meter). TA is 70 (all levels below). Pool was refinished last spring with Diamondbrite and it has consistently raised the pH when not having acid poured in - I went through a ton of acid last summer. Have not started on spa yet.
Chemistry at start (still using last year's Taylor chemicals for now, but they were stored in basement so didn't freeze):
Chlorine:0
pH: 9.6
TA: 70
CH: 300
CYA: 40
Temp: 48 (per my Jandy)
Steps taken so far:
1) Removed plugs on returns and gizmos from skimmer
2) Connected pool pump
3) Set filter to recirculate for now - just until I add DE once water level is half way up to skimmer level
4) Opened main drain - did not open skimmer flow yet (waiting for water to fill)
5) Added water - looks like I still have a few more hours before pool is full enough to open filters
6) Did basic skimming to remove debris at surface level and bottom of shallow end - cannot see bottom of deep end because of green pool
7) Started pool robot to help clean the pool - expect to need to clean frequently
8) Started pool pump at about 1700 RPM - only floor drain open
9) Tested chemistry after running pump for about an hour (see above)
10) Added 2 gallons of 10% chlorine - slam level is 5 gallons but I was concerned I should get pH right first before starting slam. I actually regret adding any chlorine before getting pH better and DE in filter.
Thoughts?
a) Should I be concerned about the high pH that was there over winter - its done deed already but how important is it to try to prevent this from happening next winter?
b) How important is it to get the filter running with DE before I start the SLAM
c) How important is it to get the pH right before I start the SLAM
d) Am I OK to SLAM with CYA at 40? It will use more chlorine, but I hate to drain and have to add more calcium and water (water coming in very slowly because main hoses have not yet been turned on for season).
Chemistry at start (still using last year's Taylor chemicals for now, but they were stored in basement so didn't freeze):
Chlorine:0
pH: 9.6
TA: 70
CH: 300
CYA: 40
Temp: 48 (per my Jandy)
Steps taken so far:
1) Removed plugs on returns and gizmos from skimmer
2) Connected pool pump
3) Set filter to recirculate for now - just until I add DE once water level is half way up to skimmer level
4) Opened main drain - did not open skimmer flow yet (waiting for water to fill)
5) Added water - looks like I still have a few more hours before pool is full enough to open filters
6) Did basic skimming to remove debris at surface level and bottom of shallow end - cannot see bottom of deep end because of green pool
7) Started pool robot to help clean the pool - expect to need to clean frequently
8) Started pool pump at about 1700 RPM - only floor drain open
9) Tested chemistry after running pump for about an hour (see above)
10) Added 2 gallons of 10% chlorine - slam level is 5 gallons but I was concerned I should get pH right first before starting slam. I actually regret adding any chlorine before getting pH better and DE in filter.
Thoughts?
a) Should I be concerned about the high pH that was there over winter - its done deed already but how important is it to try to prevent this from happening next winter?
b) How important is it to get the filter running with DE before I start the SLAM
c) How important is it to get the pH right before I start the SLAM
d) Am I OK to SLAM with CYA at 40? It will use more chlorine, but I hate to drain and have to add more calcium and water (water coming in very slowly because main hoses have not yet been turned on for season).
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 62,738
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
How did you test that level of pH? Really hard to get that high naturally.
You must fully circulate the pool at least for 24 hours prior to taking the water sample to test. Once you start the SLAM, you should leave the filter in re-circulate until you are ready to baby sit it. DE filters clog very quickly when filtering out dead algae.
Very. Get the pH into the low 7's. Watch your TA --
Yes. That is perfect.
pH tested with Apera Instruments PH60 Pocket pH Tester. Can't use kit when pH gets that high. I wouldn't bet my life on its accuracy, but it's certainly high when compared with my tap water (tap water registered at 6.8 using same meter - difference in water temperature has effect on meter but its supposed to compensate). When I bring pH down to a more workable range, I can use Taylor kit to measure pH as well. I find during the summer that the meter and Taylor kit get similar values when pH between 7 and 8.
I haven't had to deal with a pool this green before. If filter is in recirculate, how do I remove the dead algae? Do the filters in the skimmers pick it up?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,738
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It will not filter in recirculate. You use that when you are adding chlorine but not able to babysit the filter. It will clog quickly, minutes at the start, when you are in filter.
Wolfepack88
Gold Supporter
- Jun 21, 2020
- 829
- Pool Size
- 17690
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Opened up today as the company that does it for me only will open for me in March as April and May are reserved for those that they have weekly cleaning contracts. I just open and close with them. Topping off water to get it up to get the skimmer going was surprised water had not filled back up to middle of skimmer after I pumped down in late January. Now I have to go find some liquid chlorine as my one full jug is probably shot and lost all its potency.
Opened up here on LI today. Pool was FULL TO THE BRIM...which has me kicking myself for not installing an infinity pool. It's gorgeous! Kids want me to leave it, but had to explain that the skimmers won't work.
Anyway, before the close I dumped in whatever leftover shock/chlorine that I had as I knew it wouldn't keep over the winter. They took the cover off to a clear water pool! Sure...grime and leaves which I'll work on tomorrow, but no green! They dumped in two gallons of shock, I wouldn't let them put in algecide. Thank you very much to everyone here for the great help last season.
Chlorine and Salt went up at Wal-mart but still the cheapest place to get it. What's the hot spot for CYA?
Anyway, before the close I dumped in whatever leftover shock/chlorine that I had as I knew it wouldn't keep over the winter. They took the cover off to a clear water pool! Sure...grime and leaves which I'll work on tomorrow, but no green! They dumped in two gallons of shock, I wouldn't let them put in algecide. Thank you very much to everyone here for the great help last season.
Chlorine and Salt went up at Wal-mart but still the cheapest place to get it. What's the hot spot for CYA?
It's Amazon for the win. Here's my recent analysis for anyone who cares. Prices are as of 3/28/2023 21:00:
| Vendor | Brand | Price | Size | Price/LB |
| Amazon | Puritech | 68.49 | 20 | $ 3.42 |
| Robelle | 20.95 | 4 | $ 5.24 | |
| Walmart | Clorox | 19.31 | 4 | $ 4.83 |
| Home Depot | PoolTime | 44.98 | 5 | $ 9.00 |
| PoolMate | 25.96 | 4 | $ 6.49 | |
35.17 | 7 | $ 5.02 | ||
74.1 | 16 | $ 4.63 | ||
109.57 | 28 | $ 3.91 | ||
| Robelle | 25.4 | 4 | $ 6.35 | |
34.43 | 7 | $ 4.92 | ||
55.55 | 12 | $ 4.63 | ||
61.34 | 14 | $ 4.38 | ||
| HTH | 20.09 | 4 | $ 5.02 | |
| InyoPools | 41.53 | 7 | $ 5.93 |
Here's another pro-tip: If you decide to go with the Puritech on Amazon, it's actually sold by Backyard Pool and Superstore. Buy it there - same price, free shipping, and...NO TAX.
FYI, on the note of chlorine, costs are up out on the tip of the island. Last year I paid $5.99/gallon for 12.5% - now best I could find was $6.99/gallon for 10%. My go to store didn't have any in stock, and I decided not to wait.
Seeing how the spring traffic is in full effect, a couple bucks a gallon isn't worth the ride to Walmart. They're in the high $5s last I saw. Lowes was in the $7s and Home Depot was $9s.
Found the 12.5% for $7.99/gallon out here at my local shop thad had none on Monday.
Turns out my meter reading must have been off. I added 2 gallons of acid and brought the pH (with Taylor test) down to 7.4 (after 24 hours of pump circulation). TA is now 50. I will run with that and start SLAM. Had added 2 gallons of 10% chlorine two days ago - chlorine level was 2.5 today. Per SLAM, added 4 gallons of 10% chlorine today. Still have pump in recirculate but will add DE later today and be prepared to change it quickly.
Progress report on the SLAM. Pool went from green to cloudy white when the first two gallons of chlorine went in. It started to clear once the DE filtration was started. I am running VS pump at 2800 RPM. DE required changing after 15 hours or so - not immediately. Pool is now clearer, but not clear. I can see leaves pretty well at bottom of shallow end but only barely in the deep end (I could not see the leaves at the bottom at all when I started). I had netted what I could before starting, and have been running robot to get leaves out. But now that I can see the bottom, I will net out most of not all of the remaining leaves. A much easier job to do when one can see the bottom. Unfortunately, the 35-40 degree temps the last 12 hours make the process unpleasant. Chlorine level was 15 this AM, although I added a gallon of chlorine last night without measuring the chlorine level before (it was too cold). I will continue targeting a 16 level per SLAM process. Hopefully pool will be pretty clear by tomorrow. Of course I am lower on DE than I realized and getting delivery on Saturday. Hopefully one more change is all I need (that is all the DE I have until Saturday). Pressure has not risen significantly after 3 hours post-changing.
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