Having a pool built and need advice

Should the tanning ledge fountains/bubblers be running when the filter pump is? There's manual valves for them right now, which makes them a pain to turn on and off. But not sure if they are supposed to be turned off.

It is totally up to you. Fountains and bubblers are decorative. They serve no function in the operation of your pool.

As was said the aeration they cause will cause your pH to rise more rapidly.
 
Ok I just had pool school. The guy they sent out was actually the same one maintaining my pool during start up. I'm going to info dump everything I "learned" and fact check everything. I need to do it now before I forget :)

First thing we talked about were the bubblers/fountains on the tanning ledge. When I told him what I learned here, that having those on raises the pH, he said I still want to run them with the filter pump because there's very little circulation on the tanning ledge which leads to algae build up.

First thing we talked about was how to operate and maintain the equipment:
  • He said with the heater on, the water temp will go up about 1 degree every hour with both the pool and spa on, and about 1 degree per 1-2 minutes with just the spa on.
  • In about 30 minutes, the blower will overheat. He said to just turn it off for 10-15 minutes to let it cool and then turn it back on.
  • He said every 3 months to clean the filter.
  • When cleaning the pump filter basket, he said to shut off the main suction valve to make it easier to prime after starting it back up. Turn the lid on it, take the basket out, clean it. Check that there's no debris on the rim or gasket in the lid. Put back on and turn/lock it.
  • For cleaning the filter, he said to watch a youtube video so he didn't go over that.
  • He said if I clean the filters every 3 months, I should get 4-5 years of life out of them.
  • For the SWG, he showed how to detach it it and test if it needs to be cleaned. He said you stare down it through the metal grille and see if there's any light blocked due to calcium build up. He said if so, dip it in an acid wash. I forget the specifics here. I think he said 1 part acid for each 3 parts water. Not sure if I remembered that right. He also said not to wash it in acid too much because it takes some kind of coating off that's important.
Then we went into pool chemistry. I made this real easy for him 😂
  • He asked to see my test kit. I showed him my TF-Pro test kit and his reaction was "Oh nice I've never seen this kind before".
  • I told him all the tests I had done already (pH, CH, TA, etc) and he seemed content with that.
  • He said in addition to these tests, I should take a water sample to Leslie's once a month for two reasons:
    • It helps cross check that the testing I'm doing is accurate
    • They test for things that my kit won't test for (he did not list anything specific)
  • At this point he was talking really fast and I struggled to take notes on my phone. I'll list what I was able to note, but it probably won't make much sense.
  • Something about phosphates and yellow algae
  • He talked about brushing mustard (I think the same as yellow) algae
  • He mentioned black algae which is what he said I would get on my tanning ledge if I didn't run the bubblers/fountain returns
  • He said that the pool will require a lot of acid, not only from the new plaster but he said the SWG will use it too.
  • He suggested "water clarifier", he said it's a coagulant and to use it once a month
  • He mentioned "Jacks magic" and recommended "Pink" or "Magenta" for my pool. Said it helps keep calcium in suspension (makes no sense to me).
  • He mentioned using Beautec, that it helps "keep calcium to solution" (I may have written that wrong)
  • He suggested keeping pH at 7.2 because of my dark plaster (???)
  • He said for my pool keep salt between 3000-3200. At 2400 it won't produce. He said there was a max but I didn't note it in time.
  • He said to avoid Lowes/Home Depot for any pool chemicals except MA. I think his general issue with it was that they have a lot of "junk" in them. I don't know for sure what he was going on about.
I think that's about the gist of it.
 
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he said I still want to run them with the filter pump because there's very little circulation on the tanning ledge which leads to algae build up
Possibly. Got a pic with other return locations labeled?
He said every 3 months to clean the filter.
Falling debris makes the filter dirty. I clean mine once the spring crud is done, for me...... not because it needs it, and I get the rest of the season not needing anymore cleanings. Monitor your PSI at times and it will tell you if it's time.
When cleaning the pump filter basket, he said to shut off the main suction valve to make it easier to prime after starting it back up. Turn the lid on it, take the basket out, clean it. Check that there's no debris on the rim or gasket in the lid. Put back on and turn/lock it.
(y) it's easier to prime from the skimmers. We also like to lube the lid gasket before it goes back on.

For cleaning the filter, he said to watch a youtube video so he didn't go over that.
We got you when the time comes.
For the SWG, he showed how to detach it it and test if it needs to be cleaned
We got you when the time comes.
Then we went into pool chemistry
*I stopped reading here* we got you. PB doesn't know his rump from his elbow when it comes to chemistry. He does however know how to sell you gobs and gobs of things you don't need tho. They'll even create new problems trying to solve problems you didn't have in the first place.
 
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+1 on the chemistry. Empty anything he told you out the other ear and follow TFP instructions.

The algae is not an issue at all anywhere in your pool because you are going to follow TFP methods. Ditto cleaning the SWG you will never need to clean it.

In addition, your SWG does not use acid. The chlorine pucks contain acid so when not using the pucks you make up for that by adding it manually.

These pumps self prime. It doesn't matter what you do before opening, cleaning and closing, it will prime just fine.

Never ever go to Leslie's for any reason.

Get this for cleaning your filter cartridges.

 
The algae is not an issue at all anywhere in your pool because you are going to follow TFP methods
Can you explain more? What TFP methods? I thought the issue was the lack of water circulation on the tanning ledge (it's only 6 inches of water). Again keeping in mind I'm trying to learn :)
Ditto cleaning the SWG you will never need to clean it.
So there will be no calcium build up like he said? Why will I never need to clean it?
Never ever go to Leslie's for any reason
Other than the seemingly outrageous prices, what other reason do you suggest this?
 
Can you explain more? What TFP methods? I thought the issue was the lack of water circulation on the tanning ledge (it's only 6 inches of water). Again keeping in mind I'm trying to learn :)

So there will be no calcium build up like he said? Why will I never need to clean it?

Other than the seemingly outrageous prices, what other reason do you suggest this?

You'll get enough circulation. The problem lies when you are trying to keep as low a chlorine level as you possibly can and that causes algae issues. Pool stores like Leslie's like to convince you that chlorine is your enemy and the less you use the better you are. This is simply not true. TFP methods center around an appropriate chlorine level based on science.

TFP methods account for calcium hardness and utilize a calcium saturation index (CSI) to avoid calcium buildup on pool equipment. Following TFP methods means you will not have a buildup. You never clean the SWG unless you can visibly see calcium on it as cleaning reduces the service life of the cell.

Leslie's sells mostly overpriced magic beans (like your pool school mentioned) that you do not need. There is nothing in Leslie's that you need that you cannot get via your local hardware store.
 
Bottom line is every single thing pool stores sell you are to make up for not keeping an appropriate level of chlorine. Keeping 1 to 2 points higher than they suggest prevents you from ever having any issues at all ever. in 6 seasons of TFP I have never once had a single spec of algae. I have never once "shocked" my pool which some pool stores like you to think needs to be done weekly. TFP methods keep an appropriate chlorine level. Ergo, you will never need anything they sell. Pool store testing is also well known to be wildly inaccurate and not repeatable. They try to sell you useless magic beans using the inaccurate tests. They also test for phosphates, which are rarely considered in TFP pool care. They use this number to sell you even more stuff that isn't necessary.
 
Thanks guys. I feel a whole lot better hearing from you guys. The pool guy just made this so complicated. I guess the goal is to confuse as many people as possible to either scare them into pool maintenance services or buying a bunch of junk to create new problems like you say.
 
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Can you explain more? What TFP methods? I thought the issue was the lack of water circulation on the tanning ledge (it's only 6 inches of water). Again keeping in mind I'm trying to learn

Chlorine does not need circulation to propagate in a body of water.

Think about the deep end corner of your pool. Is there any forced circulation there? If you grabbed some water from that place you would find it would test the same FC level as the rest of your pool.

In addition your spa spillover falls right next to your tanning ledge. Water will be drawn from your tanning ledge and circulated due to the spillover flow. And then you have winds.

Drop some ping pong balls in the water around the tanning ledge and come out the next day and see where they are.

full

So there will be no calcium build up like he said? Why will I never need to clean it?

Read here for how to clean a SWG - SWG How It Works - Further Reading

You start with the least damaging method and only clean as necessary. An acid bath is a last resort if nothing else works.

If your water chemistry is good you will never need to clean your SWG. I never need to.

Other than the seemingly outrageous prices, what other reason do you suggest this?

Because they give you confusing and bad advice that is different then TFPC Methods and you then spend a day on here instead of enjoying your pool.
 
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I guess the goal is to confuse as many people as possible to either scare them into pool maintenance services or buying a bunch of junk to create new problems like you say.
My GC honestly didn't know squat, but was arrogant as the day was long that he did. He looked me dead in the eyes and told me Home Depot chlorine was weak and his pool shock was 'like 99%'.

I told him I had never seen his bottle but I'd bet him a paycheck his bottle said 12.5%. He countered with that HD was 'like 1%'. I bet him another paycheck it said 10%. His son snickered and walked away from the convo. Later on the son apologized for how jerk-y the GC was. Then he asked if he could stop by one day to learn everything else he was lied to by the industry reps.
 
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BTW: Your pool is gorgeous! I love the travertine. Did you go with the lighted sheer descents or the regular ones? Post a night shot with the lights on if you get a chance.
 
BTW: Your pool is gorgeous! I love the travertine. Did you go with the lighted sheer descents or the regular ones? Post a night shot with the lights on if you get a chance.
Thank you! We didn't get lighted ones. Didn't even know they existed as an option. Last pool builder was bad at a lot of things. Giving me choices was one of them.

I'll post night pics tonight. Pool doesn't seem very well lit to me but I think that's because we don't have landscape lighting yet. I was planning on buying a lighting kit and doing that myself since the last quote I got for a company to do the lighting alone was $9k, which is outrageous.
 
The swg seems to be leaking (see water on concrete in pic). I was able to tighten those 2 rings a tad more but it's tough. Hopefully that's the only reason.
PXL_20230311_185125464.jpg
 
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Just for future knowledge, any unions can be too tight, which causes the drips that you were trying to fix.
 
How do I know how much is too tight?
If you do it yourself from scratch, it will leak loose, then stop leaking when its just right, then start leaking again for too tight.

It's best to make it snug by hand and fire it up. If needed, tighten little bits at a time.
 
So what's the general advice for pool care when you go on vacations (a week or two) or small trips (gone for a few nights)? Right now the advice is to test daily and potentially add chemicals daily.
 
So what's the general advice for pool care when you go on vacations (a week or two) or small trips (gone for a few nights)? Right now the advice is to test daily and potentially add chemicals daily.

I do nothing. You do not need to test daily once your pool is dialed in. A properly balanced and managed pool with a SWG should be able to go a week or 2 with no attention at all. I have done it with mine for over a week never had any issues. I check Aqualink remotely to make sure everything looks good while gone and also have a camera on the pool for a visual inspection.
 
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