Riiiiiiight. I got my wires crossed on who was who. Apologies, i'm working on 3 hours of sleep today.
New Pool Startup - Chemistry
- Thread starter BDY
- Start date
But yet still providing great advice!!!!Riiiiiiight. I got my wires crossed on who was who. Apologies, i'm working on 3 hours of sleep today.
Update:
The OCLT passed - I raised
It to 8ppm last night and it passed with losing a negligible amount.
I realized I have been totally misreading PoolMath. When it was saying add “1 quart, 2 cups, 3 oz” my eye was only seeing “2 cups”
so that answers why I could never raise the FC to my target levels. I snapped to that when I realized the log was showing xxx oz of addition and the math to 8 oz/cup didn’t add up…. My bad…
The date code on the bleach I bought from store was way old so I got new 12.5% pool chlorine and it is much more effective it seems… lesson learned….
I will retest for CYA and TA and CH today. I will also continue to get pH down each day. Assuming I get pH and FC under control… do I focus on raising CH next or wait a while for the plaster to continue to cure? All thoughts on nexts steps appreciated ..
(SWGC cell scheduled to be installed on March 20th - an IC40)
Brian
The OCLT passed - I raised
It to 8ppm last night and it passed with losing a negligible amount.
I realized I have been totally misreading PoolMath. When it was saying add “1 quart, 2 cups, 3 oz” my eye was only seeing “2 cups”
so that answers why I could never raise the FC to my target levels. I snapped to that when I realized the log was showing xxx oz of addition and the math to 8 oz/cup didn’t add up…. My bad… The date code on the bleach I bought from store was way old so I got new 12.5% pool chlorine and it is much more effective it seems… lesson learned….
I will retest for CYA and TA and CH today. I will also continue to get pH down each day. Assuming I get pH and FC under control… do I focus on raising CH next or wait a while for the plaster to continue to cure? All thoughts on nexts steps appreciated ..
(SWGC cell scheduled to be installed on March 20th - an IC40)
Brian
Ok
So i tested everything again today with the TF kit.. just a few questions if you don’t mind
Original tests when the PB handed over pool (they did it, I watched) using K2005 kit:
I also tested my autofull water, which is softened:
2) is it normal to get very different readings if using the 10ml vs 25ml methods with Taylor drop tests?
3) should I be worried about the high TA in the autofill water?
My smartstir arrives soon I hope it makes some of these drop tests more consistent for me..
Thanks I’m advance
Brian
So i tested everything again today with the TF kit.. just a few questions if you don’t mind
Original tests when the PB handed over pool (they did it, I watched) using K2005 kit:
- FC: over 10 (using comparator block)
- PH: 8+ (off the scale)
- TA: 70
- CYA: 60-70
- CH: 180
- FC: 5.5 (using powder)
- pH: 7.8
- TA: 70
- CYA: 70
- CH (10 ml): 275
- CH (25 ML): 230*
I also tested my autofull water, which is softened:
- FC: 0
- pH: 7.2
- TA: 160
- CH: 0
2) is it normal to get very different readings if using the 10ml vs 25ml methods with Taylor drop tests?
3) should I be worried about the high TA in the autofill water?
My smartstir arrives soon I hope it makes some of these drop tests more consistent for me..
Thanks I’m advance
Brian
I'm newdude.Good morning
When the PB handed over my new pool a few weeks ago they oriented all the nozzles upwards and in a clockwise direction to create a circular effect and ripples on the surface. I notice a lot of ripples and some churning (no fountain effect). As I read more on this forum I see talk of aeration affecting pH. Would this upwards nozzle orientation be considered a form of aeration if it’s just making waves/churn without splash or bubbles?
I’ve been battling the pH down from the low 8’s everyday - I know that new plaster effect will continue for a whole - but is this making my task worse? Or it really doesn’t matter like a spa or waterfall or jets do?
Thanks
BDY
When the PB handed over my new pool a few weeks ago they oriented all the nozzles upwards and in a clockwise direction to create a circular effect and ripples on the surface. I notice a lot of ripples and some churning (no fountain effect). As I read more on this forum I see talk of aeration affecting pH. Would this upwards nozzle orientation be considered a form of aeration if it’s just making waves/churn without splash or bubbles?
I’ve been battling the pH down from the low 8’s everyday - I know that new plaster effect will continue for a whole - but is this making my task worse? Or it really doesn’t matter like a spa or waterfall or jets do?
Thanks
BDY
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 2,253
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yes - the general wisdom around here has always read that pointing nozzles to break the surface is a good way to raise pH via aeration.
How fast is your VSF running? You might be a good candidate for slowing down pump speed, which would also reduce the effect of the nozzles.
I run 24/7 at 1300-1400 rpm's. Keeps my pool skimming really well (lots of trees) plus allows my SWCG to constantly run at low %'s.
How fast is your VSF running? You might be a good candidate for slowing down pump speed, which would also reduce the effect of the nozzles.
I run 24/7 at 1300-1400 rpm's. Keeps my pool skimming really well (lots of trees) plus allows my SWCG to constantly run at low %'s.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,336
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, that is aeration. Point the nozzles horizontal so they don't break the surface and run it that way for a while and see if there is a difference.
You can't hurt anything with some experimentation and observation.
They started at 2750 24/7 but I’ve turned it down to 1500 for 8a-5p
The SWGC starts up in 2 weeks so not running yet
No worries.
Keep anything startup/chem/equipment related here, it HELPS the helpers to have continuity and proper conext when riding along with you. If you have questions about something totally sideways, like polywood chairs, then start a thread about those because it's unrelated.
Yup. Kill the pump and unscrew the outer ring a little until you can move the eyeball around. Then tighten the outer ring. After a few rodeos you can do it under pressure.
Find whatever RPM has the skimmers flapping away every 10-15 seconds. Then run that RPM unless you want to do something else like turbo skim after cutting the lawn.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,336
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The weir doors? My weir doors are always down right now but I’m having issues with the autofill so pool is low by 2 inches. I barely have 1/2 in the skimmers. They are supposed to come fix today but i may have to put a hose in soon
Sorry i meant that it doesn’t take specialized equipment etc. i need to be more clear in my questions ….
Yeah. Sounds like you need water and pronto. I found my new hayward 1085 skimmers liked being 2/3 up the faceplate with very little room for error.
It's part of the learning curve and you're doing GREAT.
Trust me. Most of us didn't even know what we didn't know at one point. We get it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,336
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the jets are adjustable then you just turn it to lossen. You can use the handle of a screwdriver inserted in the eye to push it the way you want.
If you need help post pics so we can see the type of jets you have.
Hayward Inlet Eyeball Removal - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks! Am going to try and adjust today if i get time. Adding more water did help reduce the bubbling and my daily ph rise.
On a separate note I have a skimmer questions. The two skimmers are on the same side and are plumbed to a T connection between them and then to the filter. Both of them have socks in them. One of the skimmers I can see the sock sucked down at low speed rpm (1500), the other skimmer seems to need 1700 rpm in order to generate visible suction. Regardless I am netting the pool every day to pick up surface debris. Is that sort of skimmer performance normal?
For reference the pool is set about 70/30 skimmer to drain (I think - see pic). The better skimmer has had more debris in it since day 1 than the 2nd skimmer.
I also may have added too much water the other day? I see very little visible flow over the weir doors now. The doors also don’t flap up and down for pump on or off the stay mostly down, but I can move them freely with my hand.
Or am I over analyzing?
Thanks
BDY
On a separate note I have a skimmer questions. The two skimmers are on the same side and are plumbed to a T connection between them and then to the filter. Both of them have socks in them. One of the skimmers I can see the sock sucked down at low speed rpm (1500), the other skimmer seems to need 1700 rpm in order to generate visible suction. Regardless I am netting the pool every day to pick up surface debris. Is that sort of skimmer performance normal?
For reference the pool is set about 70/30 skimmer to drain (I think - see pic). The better skimmer has had more debris in it since day 1 than the 2nd skimmer.
I also may have added too much water the other day? I see very little visible flow over the weir doors now. The doors also don’t flap up and down for pump on or off the stay mostly down, but I can move them freely with my hand.
Or am I over analyzing?
Thanks
BDY
