Pump Replacement & Recommended Pad Upgrades?

[sidewaysboost]

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster!

Looking for some advice for things I can do now to make it easier on future-me for upgrades that I want to do when the budget is willing (shade enclosure, automation, load center, replacement heater for the spa). I've already removed the Polaris booster pump that died and replaced it with a Maytronics robot (thanks to y'all here and to Marina Pool & Spa!), on the to-do list is to plumb that line into another return.

But last month the filter pump started leaking something fierce with a noticeable daily drop in water level, not a good combo on an autofill water valve in Central California, so instead of trying to make a 10+ year old inefficient single speed limp along I decided to upgrade to a VS pump. Due to the stock issues everywhere, I managed to find an IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP from Polytec Pools. I immediately ran into a spacing issue on the pad since the new pump is much longer than the old SuperFlo so currently I'm doing mental gymnastics to make it fit on the pad sideways.

I want to try to get it installed soon because the green swamp that is now my pool makes me more and more depressed every day, but is there anything else I should consider changing or adding now while I've got everything apart? See attached, all pipes are 2", foil is just to cover openings from landscaper's blowers, and included some pics from August right after we moved in with everything original on the pad.

Appreciate any info or insights y'all might have. Thanks!

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP with your 1st time post.
One idea - put the new pump on the right side of the filter (where the old booster was positioned).
Cut the pipe between the filter and the return and slide the filter to the left a little.
Take your suction pipe and run it straight to the wall then right turn behind the filter and then another right turn to the pump. The pump will be facing opposite way but should be accessible because it is on the end of pad. Need to ensure the electrical connection is long enough.
Run the return back to the wall and then left to the filter. It should be at a higher height.

Alternatively, hard to tell but if there is enough room in front of the filter then on suction take an immediate right turn and then to the right pass the filter. Push pump as far back to wall as feasible to create an 8-10 inch straight run into the pump.
Run the return to the filter as above - against the wall.

Having the pump on the end will make it a lot easier to clean the pump basket and also to hook up. Ensure you use unions on both ends of the pump to help with any future plumbing requirements.

I see a heater but no pipes are connected to it from the filter. Is it operational?
Moving the pump from between the filter and the heater will help set plumbing if you decide to set up the heater.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Side,

You might want to think about dumping that DE filter and going with a large cartridge filter. Dirt simple plumbing and no backwash valve. Just open and clean it once or twice a year.

In theory, you should have a long pipe into the pump. But, in practice, it makes no real difference as you will be running most of the time at a low RPM.

If this were my pool, I would not have any issues with turning the pump sideways and using a couple of 90's to connect everything together.

I think the IntlliFlo3 comes with unions, but if it does not, I suggest that you not install the pump unless it is with pump unions. You can't buy then at Home Depot. Makes the install much easier and leak proof.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster!

Looking for some advice for things I can do now to make it easier on future-me for upgrades that I want to do when the budget is willing (shade enclosure, automation, load center, replacement heater for the spa). I've already removed the Polaris booster pump that died and replaced it with a Maytronics robot (thanks to y'all here and to Marina Pool & Spa!), on the to-do list is to plumb that line into another return.

But last month the filter pump started leaking something fierce with a noticeable daily drop in water level, not a good combo on an autofill water valve in Central California, so instead of trying to make a 10+ year old inefficient single speed limp along I decided to upgrade to a VS pump. Due to the stock issues everywhere, I managed to find an IntelliFlo3 VSF 3HP from Polytec Pools. I immediately ran into a spacing issue on the pad since the new pump is much longer than the old SuperFlo so currently I'm doing mental gymnastics to make it fit on the pad sideways.

I want to try to get it installed soon because the green swamp that is now my pool makes me more and more depressed every day, but is there anything else I should consider changing or adding now while I've got everything apart? See attached, all pipes are 2", foil is just to cover openings from landscaper's blowers, and included some pics from August right after we moved in with everything original on the pad.

Appreciate any info or insights y'all might have. Thanks!


View attachment 470461View attachment 470462View attachment 470463

Using Hi-temp unions might allow you to install straight into the valve and make future service easier. Depends on wht the intall manula says about clearance at the fan shroud.

Pump can be set at 45-degree angle with no huge increase in flow resistance. If the heater is not going not be used, move/remove it and set the pump 90-degrees from the way the old one sat and use sweep 90's. If you replace the heater at some point, a smaller form (Max-E-Therm, Mastertemp, Jandy JXi or the like) should still fit.

Yes, adding fittings does add some head to the system, but at lower water speeds its not as much of an issue, and even at a higher speed you likely would never notice. The alternative is to a). dig up and move the suction plumbing (there's really not a lot of room to move it above ground and the extra, more-restrictive, fittings, would just be added in front of the pump). b). There really is no b as it would involve replumbing the entire pad and allowing for a future heater install which would then require extra fittings.

Be sure to leave enough room above the basket to service the pump when you plump pump-to-filter.

 

[sidewaysboost]

Thanks for the suggestions all. I was a little worried about putting a bunch of 90s in front of the pump, but I keep forgetting a VS would be running at low speed most of the time anyway. So that's reassuring to hear it's not as big of a deal and I don't need to be so wrapped up in doing it "right".

I see a heater but no pipes are connected to it from the filter. Is it operational?
Moving the pump from between the filter and the heater will help set plumbing if you decide to set up the heater.

Pump can be set at 45-degree angle with no huge increase in flow resistance. If the heater is not going not be used, move/remove it and set the pump 90-degrees from the way the old one sat and use sweep 90's. If you replace the heater at some point, a smaller form (Max-E-Therm, Mastertemp, Jandy JXi or the like) should still fit.

Unfortunately it isn't operational. Not sure how long ago it was disconnected, but it's been neglected and has rusted out the wiring, gas line, and burners plus being full of dirt and who knows what else. It's a Teledyne-Laars Series 1 EPC-250 that's original with the house from what I can tell, so definitely in need of replacement at this point. I was hoping to keep this spot open since that's where the natural gas is run to the pad, but if it frees up space to rework the pump and filter then I guess I'll prioritize that first and worry about the heater later.

You might want to think about dumping that DE filter and going with a large cartridge filter. Dirt simple plumbing and no backwash valve. Just open and clean it once or twice a year.

That is definitely on the list! Since the house came with an unopened bag of DE I figured I'd use that up and leave it for now. Would a newer Hayward cartridge filter (or any other brand) work for drop-in replacement, or should I just assume I'll have to replumb things again when I get to that point?

I think the IntlliFlo3 comes with unions, but if it does not, I suggest that you not install the pump unless it is with pump unions. You can't buy then at Home Depot. Makes the install much easier and leak proof.

It does come with Pentair unions, or at least the one from Polytec Pools did. It even came with 2.5" to 2" reducers so that works perfect for my existing pipes.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Side,

You might want to check out these filters...

Crystal Water Cartridge

Thanks,

Jim R.