Trying to understand if a Hayward heater “patented bypass design” works the same as plumbing a bypass outside the heater. This would be for a 400btu propane system, 400FDP. I think it’s the BO code on the heater?
The main reason that "some" water should continue to circulate through a heater, according to every manufacturer's class I ever attended, is so that the water in the heater does not evaporate and leave deposits in the heat exchanger if un-used for a while. It will even with a complete bypass sealing water out of the heater. Water vapor can get past a valve, especially in Texas heat.
The main reason that "some" water should continue to circulate through a heater, according to every manufacturer's class I ever attended, is so that the water in the heater does not evaporate and leave deposits in the heat exchanger if un-used for a while. It will even with a complete bypass sealing water out of the heater. Water vapor can get past a valve, especially in Texas heat.
I would think if your chemical levels are in order (to TGP standards) that allowing water to both bypass the heater and flow thru the heater at the same time might be best.
Since water will take the path of least resistance, most of the water will bypass the heater and some will still flow thru the heater. This should allow the max flow rate at a given pump RPM - and allow "some" water to continue to circulate thru the heater.
If using the heater, adjust the bypass valve accordingly.
Likewise, if the needs arises to prevent all water flow thru the heater, adjust the bypass valve to prevent water flowing thru the heater.
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