Need help reading test

[mknauss]

Note: your TA should ONLY be going down if your pH is dropping below 7.2. (someone correct me if I'm wrong about this please!)

When acid is added to pool water, it consumes alkalinity. No matter the pH.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Chemically not possible.

Check your testing methods.

You are correct. It was my testing method. I was filling tube to the 10ml mark instead of 25 ml TA is at 80

 

[jesse-99]

You are correct. It was my testing method. I was filling tube to the 10ml mark instead of 25 ml TA is at 8

Heh, earlier in this thread, I mentioned doing the SAME thing myself a few weeks ago. I only caught it when I realized, "hey my TA can't have dropped THAT much from the bit of MA I'm adding..." and then realized I was using the 10ml mark instead of 25ml too.

 

[jesse-99]

When acid is added to pool water, it consumes alkalinity. No matter the pH.

I assumed that adding MA would have a very -minor- effect on TA -unless- you got the pH down to 7.2 or less. Only reason I assumed that was because Pool Math says when you want to reduce TA, "reduce pH to 7.0 - 7.2 with MA and then aerate to increase pH" I also haven't personally seen TA go down when adding MA to go from 8.2 to 7.6 or 8.0 to 7.4 etc. My TA always stays where it was when doing that. Maybe it does go down a tiny bit, but the amount of TA reduction at that point seems negligible compared to dropping pH to 7.2 or less.. ? Can you clarify just a bit more? thanks.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Heh, earlier in this thread, I mentioned doing the SAME thing myself a few we

Heh, earlier in this thread, I mentioned doing the SAME thing myself a few weeks ago. I only caught it when I realized, "hey my TA can't have dropped THAT much from the bit of MA I'm adding..." and then realized I was using the 10ml mark instead of 25ml too.

eks ago. I only caught it when I realized, "hey my TA can't have dropped THAT much from the bit of MA I'm adding..." and then realized I was using the 10ml mark

Heh, earlier in this thread, I mentioned doing the SAME thing myself a few weeks ago. I only caught it when I realized, "hey my TA can't have dropped THAT much from the bit of MA I'm adding..." and then realized I was using the 10ml mark instead of 25ml too.

Yep. I jumped the gun and since I do some testing daily figured I was a pro at it now. Lesson learned.

 

[mknauss]

Can you clarify just a bit more?

Your TA lessened when adding acid, just not enough for the resolution of the test.
The TA is lowered more when going from 7.4 to 7 versus 7.8 to 7.4

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Balance seems to be getting worse by the day. I do not run water features at all. I run my pump 24/7 @ 1400 RPMS. COULD That be throwing my balance off? Could the direction of return jets cause aeration? My swg is set at 70% should I lower it to 35%? Below are the testing results from this morning I'm about to add a gallon of MA .
FC-10.5
PH-8.2 probably more like 9.2 based of picture attached.
TA-80
CYA-70
SALT-2800
CH-400
I know it's supposed to be a struggle with a new pool but I feel as though I'm drowning....Help me please.

 

[Britali]

Try lowering your SWG to 50%… your FC is not harmful but will save you some run time aka electricity. Just make sure you have at least a 2ppm FC above minimum (never skirt min). The only other thing I see is your pH. Use MA to lower it. I would suggest testing FC & pH daily since learning your pool. Whenever pH gets to 7.8 add MA (amount according to pool math) to lower it to 7.2.

You are not doing as bad as you feel like you are. You are actually doing well! And maintaining pH is not a monster…just lower it with MA when you need to. Nothing is perfect…including pool numbers…do not sweat exact but keep in range.

 

[Britali]

Aeration is any water that splashes into the pool…so stopping any splashes will help stop the pH rise. Point your jets down in direction you want the flow to go, may help

 

[Britali]

One other thing since not sure how high over pH 8 but is a darker shade…add MA as if pH 8. You can always add more after it distributes.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

One other thing since not sure how high over pH 8 but is a darker shade…add MA as if pH 8. You can always add more after it distributes.

Ok thanks

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Aeration is any water that splashes into the pool…so stopping any splashes will help stop the pH rise. Point your jets down in direction you want the flow to go, may help

All three of my return jets aim up...I will adjust them down

 

[jesse-99]

All three of my return jets aim up...I will adjust them down

Yes, if they're making some bubbles from the return jets , lower their aim to help minimize any aeration from those return jets.

Also, I know it's a pain, but until you get this under control, you may need to TEST, add MA, then RE-TEST after 30-45 minutes (with the pump running), I feel you need to verify that the MA is bringing down pH ---- it will regardless, but, FOR EXAMPLE, if you add a gallon of MA , and your RE-TEST 30-45 minutes later of pH is still over 8.0, then you KNOW your pH was way over 8 when you -expected- it it to drop to 7.2 from a gallon of MA in the RE-TEST. So Test, add MA, and RE-TEST. (and remember to keep testing TA as well as part of pH).

Also, bring your FC down some. People say that FC over 10 will AFFECT pH tests, so maybe bring yours down to 6 or 7 FC by lowering or SWG or by turning it OFF for a single day (you would only lose 2-4 FC in a given day even without the SWG on at all that day if you don't have algae). That might help with your pH accuracy as well.

 

[Britali]

He is totally right! Any FC over 10 will throw off your pH. Test ph once you get FC under 10.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Yes, if they're making some bubbles from the return jets , lower their aim to help minimize any aeration from those return jets.

Also, I know it's a pain, but until you get this under control, you may need to TEST, add MA, then RE-TEST after 30-45 minutes (with the pump running), I feel you need to verify that the MA is bringing down pH ---- it will regardless, but, FOR EXAMPLE, if you add a gallon of MA , and your RE-TEST 30-45 minutes later of pH is still over 8.0, then you KNOW your pH was way over 8 when you -expected- it it to drop to 7.2 from a gallon of MA in the RE-TEST. So Test, add MA, and RE-TEST. (and remember to keep testing TA as well as part of pH).

Also, bring your FC down some. People say that FC over 10 will AFFECT pH tests, so maybe bring yours down to 6 or 7 FC by lowering or SWG or by turning it OFF for a single day (you would only lose 2-4 FC in a given day even without the SWG on at all that day if you don't have algae). That might help with your pH accuracy as well.

Ok. I originally lowered to 50% but instead, turn it off until tomorrow morning.then proceed to adjust PH balance?

 

[jesse-99]

Just be sure to monitor your FC closely while it's off the day but if you don't have algae you should drop from 10.5 to 6-8 within 24 hours or so depending on how much SUN you get today. Once FC is a bit lower (even 8 or 9) you can recheck pH and keep making your MA adjustments. Just don't forget to turn you SWG back on to 50% or wherever you need it (or it'll keep going down down down).

 

[Bperry]

Balance seems to be getting worse by the day. I do not run water features at all. I run my pump 24/7 @ 1400 RPMS. COULD That be throwing my balance off? Could the direction of return jets cause aeration? My swg is set at 70% should I lower it to 35%? Below are the testing results from this morning I'm about to add a gallon of MA .
FC-10.5
PH-8.2 probably more like 9.2 based of picture attached.
TA-80
CYA-70
SALT-2800
CH-400
I know it's supposed to be a struggle with a new pool but I feel as though I'm drowning....Help me please.

Your pH will read high when the FC is over 10ppm, so beware of that. It won’t be hugely off but don’t go making any drastic changes because of it.

Your pH looks like it’s just above 8.2, no big deal. Add a few “dollops” of acid to lower it back down. A new plaster pool will be raising pH for many months after so just keep at it and it’ll slow down eventually.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Just be sure to monitor your FC closely while it's off the day but if you don't have algae you should drop from 10.5 to 6-8 within 24 hours or so depending on how much SUN you get today. Once FC is a bit lower (even 8 or 9) you can recheck pH and keep making your MA adjustments. Just don't forget to turn you SWG back on to 50% or wherever you need it (or it'll keep going down down down).

Got it.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Your pH will read high when the FC is over 10ppm, so beware of that. It won’t be hugely off but don’t go making any drastic changes because of it.

Your pH looks like it’s just above 8.2, no big deal. Add a few “dollops” of acid to lower it back down. A new plaster pool will be raising pH for many months after so just keep at it and it’ll slow my FC

Your pH will read high when the FC is over 10ppm, so beware of that. It won’t be hugely off but don’t go making any drastic changes because of it.

Your pH looks like it’s just above 8.2, no big deal. Add a few “dollops” of acid to lower it back down. A new plaster pool will be raising pH for5 many months after so just keep at it and it’ll slow down eventually.

Ok. Thank you. Dollops added..lol

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

FC is at 10 this morning so I will keep Swg off and l
Allow FC to drop to about 8 before I begin to adjust for rhe high PH