Pump wiring issue?

[CCT73]

Hey all - I'm at my witts end trying to figure out a problem with my pool pump.

Pump was working fine. I disconnected from the breaker box, and added a Dewenwils pool timer with wi-fi. This model.

The pump turns on and off as it should. However, it is no longer pushing water. I have checked backets. Replaced the filter. Searched for air leaks. Can't figure out why it wouldn't be moving water.

I even disconnected it from the timer and connected directly to the wires coming from the breaker box....same thing.

Am I missing something? Pump hasn't even been used a full season yet...and the change happened when I added the timer, so it feels like I must have messed something up. But I sure can't figure out what the heck it can be!?!?????

 

[Jimrahbe]

73,

The electrical power really has nothing to do with the wet end of the pump working.

What kind of pump is it and is it running off of 240 volts or 120 volts?

Show us some pics..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[CCT73]

Hey Jim thank you for your quick response! Here are some photos and a ).

It's a 240v pump.

 

[drsipe]

Are you sure the pump is rotating?

Can you remove the rear motor cover to verify that the pump is rotating?

Safety Warning:
For the electrical troubleshooting, it requires the use of a multimeter and some basic electrical knowledge. If you are uncomfortable or unable, I would advise contacting an electrician.

If you are familiar with a multi meter, you may want to test the capacitor. When a capacitor fails, the motor may sound like it's operating, but the motor is not rotating.

If you are familiar with a multi meter, you can check voltage, each side of the feed to ground should be 110V and feed to feed should be 220V. I have seen 220V breakers fail and only one feed is live. This would also prevent the motor from rotating.

 

[CCT73]

Are you sure the pump is rotating?

Can you remove the rear motor cover to verify that the pump is rotating?

Safety Warning:
For the electrical troubleshooting, it requires the use of a multimeter and some basic electrical knowledge. If you are uncomfortable or unable, I would advise contacting an electrician.

If you are familiar with a multi meter, you may want to test the capacitor. When a capacitor fails, the motor may sound like it's operating, but the motor is not rotating.

If you are familiar with a multi meter, you can check voltage, each side of the feed to ground should be 110V and feed to feed should be 220V. I have seen 220V breakers fail and only one feed is live. This would also prevent the motor from rotating.

I removed the rear cover and confirmed that it IS spinning - in a clockwise direction...

 

[Jimrahbe]

73,

The SuperFlo can run off of 240 or 120 volts AC.

Show us some pics of your new timer and how it is wired.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[CCT73]

Here it is!

 

[Jimrahbe]

73,

The wiring looks fine to me. I suspect that your priming issue has nothing to do with you adding the new timer.

But... just to make sure, there are a couple of things you could do if you wanted.

1. If you have a voltmeter, test between Com2 and Com1 and make sure you have 240 volts AC.
2. If ok, and with the pump running, test between NO1 and Com1 and then NO2 and Com2. In both cases, there should be close to zero volts AC.
3. If you don't have a voltmeter, use wire nuts and connect NO1 to Com1 and then NO2 to Com2. This would bypass the timer and prove the problem is not the timer.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Hootz]

The wiring at the timer appears correct. Because the pump windings can backfeed disconnect the wiring to the pump at NO1 and NO2 (make sure breaker is off). Also disconnect the white jumpers at com1 and com2. Turn on the breaker and check for voltage at com1 and com2. This will verify you are getting proper voltage from the breaker.

 

[wireform]

Or just put the wires of com1 and No1 under the same screw and the same for Com2 and No2.

 

[CCT73]

Thank you all for your help with this!

I don't have a voltage meter - or any clue how to use one. LOL. BUT. In my original troubleshooting I connected the two black wires from the pump directly to the feed from the sub panel. Then I fired it up, same outcome. Turned the breaker off again, reversed the two hot wires, reconnected with wire nuts. Fired it back up - same outcome again.

So, seems like I'm looking at a bum pump, right???

Frustrating that our pool company can't get to us until this coming Friday. Pool is already getting cloudy (it hasn't had circulating water since last Tuesday).

 

[Jimrahbe]

73,

Just to make sure.. All you did was replace the timer, you did not open the pump and mess with any wires there. Is that correct???

If you were inside the pump, show us that wiring at that end.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[wireform]

Since your signature isn't filled yet I haven't a clue what you have BUT in order not to let it get worse as per poolmath app get 5ppm chlorine in daily and mix it either with a robotic cleaner if you have one or an ordinary pool brush or if you have a submersible pump you can drop it in and move it to another spot after an hour, that'll be good till it gets resolved.

 

[CCT73]

73,

Just to make sure.. All you did was replace the timer, you did not open the pump and mess with any wires there. Is that correct???

If you were inside the pump, show us that wiring at that end.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yup - I just replaced the timer. I didn't open the pump until I took the back off to be sure that it was rotating....

Since your signature isn't filled yet I haven't a clue what you have BUT in order not to let it get worse as per poolmath app get 5ppm chlorine in daily and mix it either with a robotic cleaner if you have one or an ordinary pool brush or if you have a submersible pump you can drop it in and move it to another spot after an hour, that'll be good till it gets resolved.

I'm in central Iowa. I'll get my signature figured out! Since our pump is dead, our vac is dead too. But we have an old fountain pump that I can toss in to get some water moving when I put some bleach in. I'll jump on poolmath and figure out how much. Thank you!!

 

[Hootz]

Is there water coming into the pump basket? If the pump is spinning maybe it lost its prime….did you fill the pump basket with water before starting the pump?

 

[CCT73]

Is there water coming into the pump basket? If the pump is spinning maybe it lost its prime….did you fill the pump basket with water before starting the pump?

Yup I sure did. There is no water coming in to the pump basket. I ended up with 2" additional water in the pool when I stuck the hose in the pump basket. Then I closed both inlets FROM the pool, filled the basket up again - and it maintained level without the pump running. Then I powered up the pump - same water level remained. Opened the inlets from the pool, the water drained to just below the pool inlet level.

 

[ajw22]

It sure sounds like a clogged or broken impeller unrelated to the timer change.

I would unbolt the motor and pull it out and inspect the impeller.

 

[nwardoh]

Here it is!

View attachment 442099

That wiring is not correct!

If you are wiring for 240 then com2 should be hot. You have the neutral for the timer connected to com2. It doesn't look like you have a neutral coming into the timer at all. I only see that black, red, and ground coming in.

 

[Jimrahbe]

That wiring is not correct!

N,

You are relying on the color of the wires to make that statement. It is not something that you can do with other people's wiring.

If you ignore the color of the wires and just look where the wires go, you will see that the wiring is correct.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

That wiring is not correct!

If you are wiring for 240 then com2 should be hot. You have the neutral for the timer connected to com2. It doesn't look like you have a neutral coming into the timer at all. I only see that black, red, and ground coming in.

The timer is dual voltage and for 240V wiring the N screw gets the other hot leg.

It is correct.