Muratic acid & liquid chlorine??

[newmum8711]

So after my last questions I have been using my 2005 & my ph was about 9 (since the color was still darker) & it asked for acid, I added what it requested in the evening when my water was green.. next morning my water seemed darker..
Tested it again...
Added more, this time I added about 2cups more ... water got even more darker the next day.. so then I tried liquid chlorine.. 3rd day didn't do anything.
So now yesterday I just got the permission to just flat out empty it out.
So if they say muratic acid & liquid chlorine is all I need (minus the tab) then what happened?? Was the app (poolmath) not right? Should I had doubled it? I know they say it doesn't clear up overnight, but I was not noticing a tad bit of change & when it emptied out there was alot of algae on the floor yes I vacuumed & used the net everyday. I'm confused. Need to know for future reference, what else needs to be added? Ph is supposed to be the 1st thing to take care of???

 

[newmum8711]

Screenshot of app

 

[Mdragger88]

I think u may be misunderstanding,
PoolMath is just a calculator that helps u calculate additions based on your input.

If you are referring to the SLAM Process
You are correct, a swamp won’t become clear overnight- it requires testing & replenishing fc to slam level for your cya multiple times per day until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article. However long that takes - usually at least several days to a week - sometimes longer.
The more often u test & dose with liquid chlorine the faster you will eradicate your algae problem & meet all 3 end of slam criteria. The algae consumes fc at a rapid rate - especially in the beginning, this usually tapers down towards the end as the water clears up.
Before beginning you are to lower ph to 7.2 - this is because the ph test is invalid during slam when fc levels are above 10ppm.

For a successful SLAM Process you need to continue until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where it may hide (light niches, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

 

[Mdragger88]

A ph of 9 is not a measurable #
Whenever this happens,
Use the highest measurement on the comparator block for your “current” level in poolmath & put 7.5 as your target add the prescribed amount of acid , test again in 30 minutes, repeat the process until u get a readable ph then you can lower ph to 7.2

I also see that you have a very small pool.
3440 gallons is listed in your poolmath logs. Is that correct? Is this a temporary pool (intex style) or a permanent pool?
It may be better to drain, scrub & refill then do the slam process upon refilling as it would get u swimmable much faster & use much less chlorine.

 

[newmum8711]

I think u may be misunderstanding,
PoolMath is just a calculator that helps u calculate additions based on your input.

If you are referring to the SLAM Process
You are correct, a swamp won’t become clear overnight- it requires testing & replenishing fc to slam level for your cya multiple times per day until u pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article. However long that takes - usually at least several days to a week - sometimes longer.
The more often u test & dose with liquid chlorine the faster you will eradicate your algae problem & meet all 3 end of slam criteria. The algae consumes fc at a rapid rate - especially in the beginning, this usually tapers down towards the end as the water clears up.
Before beginning you are to lower ph to 7.2 - this is because the ph test is invalid during slam when fc levels are above 10ppm.

For a successful SLAM Process you need to continue until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where it may hide (light niches, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

What I don't get is the term "backwash" I don't have a fancy filter pump. I still have stock.. soo how do I "backwash" that??
Is that term for taking out the filter & wash it clean?

 

[newmum8711]

A ph of 9 is not a measurable #
Whenever this happens,
Use the highest measurement on the comparator block for your “current” level in poolmath & put 7.5 as your target add the prescribed amount of acid , test again in 30 minutes, repeat the process until u get a readable ph then you can lower ph to 7.2

I also see that you have a very small pool.
3440 gallons is listed in your poolmath logs. Is that correct? Is this a temporary pool (intex style) or a permanent pool?
It may be better to drain, scrub & refill then do the slam process upon refilling as it would get u swimmable much faster & use much less chlorine.

It is a bestway pool, one that I hope can last a few yrs at least.
I have drained it & scrubbed it today. It is filing as I type this. I already added 12oz of liquid chlorine as it runs thru .. I wasn't sure I could do the slam process as this goes.. so am I too late?

 

[an1vrsy]

I will link you to an article in the wiki on multi port valve (MPV) there are different valve positions. Read the MPV wiki to get a better understanding, specifically the “backwash” section

 

[Mdragger88]

Do u have the one with the paper filter?
If so, there is no backwashing, you just take the filter out & spray it off.
It’s best to get a pack of filters so u can swap them quickly & always have one at the ready.
Since this is a small temporary/portable pool u can follow this guide upon refill

Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

Smaller seasonal pools can see just as much enjoyment as their larger counterparts. In this guide we'll show you how to maintain your temporary pool.

www.google.com

 

[Mdragger88]

To help u get a better understanding,
Let’s explain how u got where u were with the algae…
You mentioned chlorine tabs,
They are convenient but you must understand what they do.
They add chlorine (which gets consumed daily)
& cya (which stays in the water & continues to build)
they also are acidic & lower ph.
Here are the overall effects of each dissolved tablet on your water depending upon its size



For every cya level there is a corresponding minimum fc level that is necessary to never fall below lest algae & nasties will grow.
At some point you fell below minimum for your cya - this allowed algae to grow.
See —> FC/CYA Levels
Some cya is necessary to prevent the sun from consuming your chlorine but too much becomes a problem & makes it impractical to maintain proper fc levels & slam if necessary.
The solution- if u wish to use the tabs- is to stop using the stabilized tablets & switch to liquid chlorine for daily chlorination when cya gets to 30-40ppm.
That is only about 3 - 8” tabs or roughly 10- 1” tabs in your pool.
Also you must test cya regularly or keep track of how many tablets u have used so u can be sure u are chlorinating at the appropriate level on the chart.
If cya falls - u can use the tabs again to help replenish it but then switch back to liquid chlorine.
Alternatively (Recommended)
You can just use liquid chlorine & dry cya (stabilizer) which is recommended as its easier to keep an eye on each parameter separately than to try & juggle all the changes that occur from using tablets.
Adding enough stabilizer to reach 30 or 40ppm upon fresh fill & then chlorinating accordingly.

It’s best to aim for at least the
high target on the FC/CYA Levels when dosing to ensure u don’t fall below minimum before your next dose of chlorine.
It is safe to swim with fc levels anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya , so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety purposes .
I hope this info clears things up

 

[newmum8711]

To help u get a better understanding,
Let’s explain how u got where u were with the algae…
You mentioned chlorine tabs,
They are convenient but you must understand what they do.
They add chlorine (which gets consumed daily)
& cya (which stays in the water & continues to build)
they also are acidic & lower ph.
Here are the overall effects of each dissolved tablet on your water depending upon its size


View attachment 439299View attachment 439300
For every cya level there is a corresponding minimum fc level that is necessary to never fall below lest algae & nasties will grow.
At some point you fell below minimum for your cya - this allowed algae to grow.
See —> FC/CYA Levels
Some cya is necessary to prevent the sun from consuming your chlorine but too much becomes a problem & makes it impractical to maintain proper fc levels & slam if necessary.
The solution- if u wish to use the tabs- is to stop using the stabilized tablets & switch to liquid chlorine for daily chlorination when cya gets to 30-40ppm.
That is only about 3 - 8” tabs or roughly 10- 1” tabs in your pool.
Also you must test cya regularly or keep track of how many tablets u have used so u can be sure u are chlorinating at the appropriate level on the chart.
If cya falls - u can use the tabs again to help replenish it but then switch back to liquid chlorine.
Alternatively (Recommended)
You can just use liquid chlorine & dry cya (stabilizer) which is recommended as its easier to keep an eye on each parameter separately than to try & juggle all the changes that occur from using tablets.
Adding enough stabilizer to reach 30 or 40ppm upon fresh fill & then chlorinating accordingly.

It’s best to aim for at least the
high target on the FC/CYA Levels when dosing to ensure u don’t fall below minimum before your next dose of chlorine.
It is safe to swim with fc levels anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya , so long as u can see the bottom of the pool for safety purposes .
I hope this info clears things up

Oh? How about the clear balance tablets? What is your take on those? thank you so much for your information by the way.

 

[Mdragger88]

What are they? Baking soda tablets? If so, they are unnecessary & contain xtra unnecessary stuff as well.
If u need to increase ta (which most people don’t- any ta above 50 is fine) u can just use baking soda. It costs 50 cents a pound or less.

 

[newmum8711]

What are they? Baking soda tablets? If so, they are unnecessary & contain xtra unnecessary stuff as well.
If u need to increase ta (which most people don’t- any ta above 50 is fine) u can just use baking soda. It costs 50 cents a pound or less.

Ohh okay I figured baking soda is better, before I dumped the algae water my ph was always high so I want to be ready for that.

 

[Mdragger88]

The idea here @ TFP is to test regularly & only add what your pool needs.
No more, no less.
For most pools that consists of:
*daily chlorination according to the FC/CYA Levels
*monitoring ph & using acid to keep it in the 7’s
* monitoring TA weekly or so
(u need to know your ta to calculate acid doses to control ph)
any ta 50 or above is fine
* monitoring cya
* monitoring ch monthly
-Low ch isn’t a problem for vinyl pools with no heater
- High ch is a problem for all pools

 

[Mdragger88]

Ohh okay I figured baking soda is better, before I dumped the algae water my ph was always high so I want to be ready for that.

ph & Ta are married chemically-
They are both lowered with acid additions
& both increased with base additions
(baking soda, soda ash, borax)

Aeration will increase ph without increasing TA instead of using a chemical.
Pool Care Basics

 

[newmum8711]

So hi, I've been asking questions here alot lately but I feel like I'm finally getting a bit better at this. It rained & the water lacked a tablet for 2 days& it tried going down hill before I caught it.
But I have a question.. how can we go back to clear looking water when it's cloudy from dirt that vacuum can't pick up?
If u care for the recap:
Sat we had a little party with 6 ppl in the pool, prior to that I added muratic acid to put the ph level@ 7.2
Sat- we were out
Sun night I vacuumed & brush& noticed a floor full of light algae, the ph was still@ 7.2 so I started to add liquid chlorine (pool math recommended 12 oz but I doubled because I knew it wouldn't hold throughout the night.)
Monday morning- tested at 7.2ph & 1fc so I added 24oz (pm recommended 20)
Every 2hrs I was outside brushing & vacuuming & testing added another 24oz.
Then again another 24oz.. no the fc never moved.
& @night I decide to throw in 32oz.
This morning I added 40oz & I'll be testing again in a few when my vacuum is charged.
This is what it looks like right now. Luckily it's blue but cloudy with dirt I can't pick up. So my question is... can I use clarifier or any other chemical that can help? I'm scared of flock tho.
BTW the reason why poolmath is not linked is because It wants me to pay when I'm trying to save my pennies for a better vacuum

 

[newmum8711]

Oops, other pic here...
BTW, 1st pic u may notice a pvc pipe.. yes my daughter grandpa added that for whenever chemicals are in so it can "circulate" better.

 

[markayash]

My concern is it sounds like your FC levels dropped and you might have algae.
If it were mine I would play it safe and do a SLAM or a over night Chlorine loss test and rule it out

If its just " junk" in the water best solution is just let your pump run 24x7, not sure what kind of filter you have but it should clear up. I have actually turned my pump off over night and let it settle and then brush it slowly toward the main drain.

 

[newmum8711]

My concern is it sounds like your FC levels dropped and you might have algae.
If it were mine I would play it safe and do a SLAM or a over night Chlorine loss test and rule it out

If its just " junk" in the water best solution is just let your pump run 24x7, not sure what kind of filter you have but it should clear up. I have actually turned my pump off over night and let it settle and then brush it slowly toward the main drain.

Makes sense it kind of sucks tho because I can only vacuum so long before the dirt goes everywhere causing it to get cloudy.