SWG and Cold Water

Litlat

Gold Supporter
May 31, 2019
55
Orange, CA
Hello,
I am considering switching over to SWG. We live in So. California (Orange County).
I have read many many threads on this website regarding the pros and cons of switching over. An issue seems to be cold water affecting the cell's inability to produce chlorine with water temps below 59 degrees causing the pool owner to revert back to adding liquid chlorine on a daily basis. With SWG's biggest advantage being not having to add liquid chlorine in the pool on a daily basis doesn't the aforementioned issue negate SWG's "advantage"? Thanks.

~Mike
 
Your pool water is going to get down below 60F maybe 8 to 12 weeks.

When the water is that cold algae growth is slow and you can go a week or so between liquid chlorine additions.

So consider that the SWG benefits you 40 weeks out of the year.

How did you maintain your pool last winter?
 
Your pool water is going to get down below 60F maybe 8 to 12 weeks.

When the water is that cold algae growth is slow and you can go a week or so between liquid chlorine additions.

So consider that the SWG benefits you 40 weeks out of the year.

How did you maintain your pool last winter?
Hi Allen,
Now that I'm thinking about it, I do use less chemicals in the winter.
I read among the many threads most folks run their pumps 24/7 at low RPMs. Is that recommended (24/7 x 365)?
Thanks,
Mike
 
You can run the pump and SWCG 24/7 if you like. Or not. I do not. Mine runs about 8 hours a day.
 
I read among the many threads most folks run their pumps 24/7 at low RPMs. Is that recommended (24/7 x 365)?

I would say some folks, not most folks.

I run my VS pump 24/7/365. At low RPM and low electrical cost I see no reason not to generate some chlorine all the time.

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I am considering switching over to SWG.
Looks like your equipment is Pentair. If you're looking at an IntelliChlor, they function until the water temperature is 52° F ± 3°.

When the water is that cold, FC demand is very little. Last winter, I used less than one gallon of LC in my pool.
 
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Looks like your equipment is Pentair. If you're looking at an IntelliChlor, they function until the water temperature is 52° F ± 3°.

When the water is that cold, FC demand is very little. Last winter, I used less than one gallon of LC in my pool.
Thanks pjt,
Even though we have Pentair, if we make the switch, I'm leaning towards the Circupool RJ-60+. I would be doing the install and want the warranty.

~Mike
 

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leaning towards the Circupool RJ-60+

I live up north of you in Ventura County and installed an RJ60+ a little over a year ago. Last winter, it didn't stop producing until the water temp got down around 55°. That happened very infrequently...maybe a total of 15 days? I added 2 gallons of LC all winter. If you get the RJ60+ with your size pool, you can raise FC 3-4 ppm per day if you turn on super CL mode (and run the pump 24/7), so you could use that ahead of our "cold snaps" when you think the water temp was going to get low.
 
Thanks pjt,
Even though we have Pentair, if we make the switch, I'm leaning towards the Circupool RJ-60+. I would be doing the install and want the warranty.

~Mike
In the few weeks my RJ60+ won’t run due to temp, I use a few tabs. Typically need to build CYA back up getting ready for Summer anyway.

With cold water temps, the tabs last a full week. Think I used maybe 8-10 all winter this year.
 
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I live up north of you in Ventura County and installed an RJ60+ a little over a year ago. Last winter, it didn't stop producing until the water temp got down around 55°. That happened very infrequently...maybe a total of 15 days? I added 2 gallons of LC all winter. If you get the RJ60+ with your size pool, you can raise FC 3-4 ppm per day if you turn on super CL mode (and run the pump 24/7), so you could use that ahead of our "cold snaps" when you think the water temp was going to get low.
Hi Eric,
Thanks. I know Ventura well.
I perused your DIY installation. Great information. Thank you.
I downloaded the Circupool RJ-60+ user manual and read it front to back. Their installation instructions read like it's a one hour job. "Cut the 2" PVC in the proper place. Install the cell and Flow-switch. Mount the control module to a post out of the direct sun. Connect the wires and you're done." A little voice in the back of my head is telling me it's not quite that easy.

After reading the entire manual the worst part seems to be ensuring the pool is in perfect chemical balance before turning on the SWCG.

What "gotchas" should I be on the lookout for during the installation?
Thanks,
Mike
 
Hi Eric,
Thanks. I know Ventura well.
I perused your DIY installation. Great information. Thank you.
I downloaded the Circupool RJ-60+ user manual and read it front to back. Their installation instructions read like it's a one hour job. "Cut the 2" PVC in the proper place. Install the cell and Flow-switch. Mount the control module to a post out of the direct sun. Connect the wires and you're done." A little voice in the back of my head is telling me it's not quite that easy.

After reading the entire manual the worst part seems to be ensuring the pool is in perfect chemical balance before turning on the SWCG.

What "gotchas" should I be on the lookout for during the installation?
Thanks,
Mike
Gotchas? None - it’s as simple as it reads.

Installed my own and I’m a moron.
 
I don't know how much different your climate is, but I thought I'd pull the cell, put the bypass in and go back to bleach in December through March here, but typically all I need to do is set the SWCG to come on at about noon instead of the morning from Dec to Feb or so, so it doesn't get locked out with the "cOld" reading on the display first thing in the morning... for the three weeks or so it does... meh.. I add some chlorine maybe at week two... I also can turn it way down.. like to 15% and still maintain enough FC to get through the winter. As long as it doesn't freeze being locked out won't hurt it.

There is about a week here in the first to second week of January where if it's extra cold in the forecast I might swap out the bypass.. but as long as the pump goes into the antifreeze mode I have been fine so far.

As for running the pump.. I think I run it on high 90 minutes a day with the SWCG on, and low for about 8 hours (with the SWCG on for 7.5 of those) and off the rest of the time. A little less in the winter. No reason to waste electricity, and that is the purpose of a VS Pump. This is also an advantage of buying an oversized (at least 2x but more is better) SWCG, you can do this. If you put a 40K unit on a 30K pool you have to run like 18 hours... The best time to run a SWCG is during the day if you can... Hopefully my experience can help you get a practical idea of what you'll do if you oversize the cell as you should.

As for plumbing... if you've ever replaced a faucet under a sink, you are overqualified. It's quite simple to work with the PVC, just make sure you plan out a good place for the cell-- in particular if it is vertical, make sure the unit you pick is compatible with vertical mounting-- and make sure to sand, and prime the PVC glued joints... it sucks when one comes apart. Still not the end of the world even if you have to redo it... don't ask...
 
My drill is to let the CYA drift down normally from ~70 where I try to keep it in mid summer to wherever it ends up when the pool hits 55F in late November/early December. Maybe 55-60.

Then turn off the SWG and throw in a floater with one 3 inch trichlor puck. One load lasts 2-3 weeks. Replenish through the winter. (Once I had some very slow-dissolving tabs, so 2 were needed, but they lasted a full month.)

This keeps FC at 5-7. Never had any algae, knock wood. No lq.

When temp hits 55 again in April, the CYA is back near 70. Pull out the floater and turn the SWG back on.

For me, this is the easiest way to go. I don't like the idea of fiddling with lq either. I've never added CYA except what's in those tabs.
 
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Thanks for all of your insight Fred. Definitely going to supersize it. The upfront cost between a 45 and a 60 is minimal. I need to double check with Circupool, but I believe for our 14,500 gallon pool a RJ-60+ would be adequate. I'll get a bigger unit if necessary.
Thanks again.
Mike
 
My drill is to let the CYA drift down normally from ~70 where I try to keep it in mid summer to wherever it ends up when the pool hits 55F in late November/early December. Maybe 55-60.

Then turn off the SWG and throw in a floater with one 3 inch trichlor puck. One load lasts 2-3 weeks. Replenish through the winter. (Once I had some very slow-dissolving tabs, so 2 were needed, but they lasted a full month.)

This keeps FC at 5-7. Never had any algae, knock wood. No lq.

When temp hits 55 again in April, the CYA is back near 70. Pull out the floater and turn the SWG back on.

For me, this is the easiest way to go. I don't like the idea of fiddling with lq either. I've never added CYA except what's in those tabs.
Thanks for your input. Interesting. I haven't come across any threads yet with folks turning off their SWCG for such long stretches like you do. You've obviously found the sweet spot for your situation. Thanks again.
~Mike
 

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