Looking for help diagnosing what I’m dealing with. This keeps coming back on my walls pretty much immediately after brushing. One picture show the stairs with side walls covered but not as bad on the top of the stair.
What am I dealing with? (Pics)
- Thread starter Jrobertp
- Start date
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you brush the pool? Algae can hide behind biofilm and if you brush it disrupts the film and lets chlorine get to the algae.
AND you have to have enough chlorine in proportion to your CYA.
What kind of chlorine are you using?? Liquid Chlorine is ideal, whereas pucks and granular add unwanted CYA or Calcium. If those get too high you'll be fighting to get the chlorine high enough to combat algae.
Get either the K-2006C from Amazon, or the TF-100/TF-Pro from www.tftestkits.net and run a full set of chem levels-
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT if applicable
Until we (and YOU) know and understand the health of your water you won't be able to slay the green beast,
Maddie
AND you have to have enough chlorine in proportion to your CYA.
What kind of chlorine are you using?? Liquid Chlorine is ideal, whereas pucks and granular add unwanted CYA or Calcium. If those get too high you'll be fighting to get the chlorine high enough to combat algae.
Get either the K-2006C from Amazon, or the TF-100/TF-Pro from www.tftestkits.net and run a full set of chem levels-
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT if applicable
Until we (and YOU) know and understand the health of your water you won't be able to slay the green beast,
Maddie
I had ordered a TF-100 kit. I was waiting on it to arrive. Here are my test results as of this afternoon (Friday)
PH 7.2
FC 13.5
CC .5
TC 14
CH 325
TA 100
CYA 160
Background on the pool. I’ve owned it 6 years. All of those years the chemicals have been serviced by a company. They use chlorine gas every Monday to add the chlorine to the pool. I do all other pool maintenance. Under normal care walls get brushed once a week. Maybe a little More during the spring. Pressure side Polaris pool vac also runs 2-3 hrs per day.
Lately with the current situation I’m brushing walls 4-5 days a week and my DE filter is needing a backwash almost weekly.
Polaris is picking up blue granular pebbles at a rate of probably 1/4 cup per week. Has been doing that for years. The pebble tec surface is getting more rough and I guess I’ll have to resurface at some point in the future.
If I did not travel during the summer I would probably do my chemicals my self. As it stands I am away from the pool a total of about 4 weeks during the summer. Additionally the pool chemical company I use is economical at around $650 a year.
I’m trying to confirm that this is algae because I can’t keep fighting this and will take on chemicals myself if necessary. This type of thing has been happening each spring for the last 3 years.
I have read several threads and understand that daily care of the water is better. I’m just not sure what to do when I have weeks during the summer away from the pool. Also. $12.50 a week for chemical service (that includes all my DE needs as well) is a nice convenience as opposed to doing it myself.
PH 7.2
FC 13.5
CC .5
TC 14
CH 325
TA 100
CYA 160
Background on the pool. I’ve owned it 6 years. All of those years the chemicals have been serviced by a company. They use chlorine gas every Monday to add the chlorine to the pool. I do all other pool maintenance. Under normal care walls get brushed once a week. Maybe a little More during the spring. Pressure side Polaris pool vac also runs 2-3 hrs per day.
Lately with the current situation I’m brushing walls 4-5 days a week and my DE filter is needing a backwash almost weekly.
Polaris is picking up blue granular pebbles at a rate of probably 1/4 cup per week. Has been doing that for years. The pebble tec surface is getting more rough and I guess I’ll have to resurface at some point in the future.
If I did not travel during the summer I would probably do my chemicals my self. As it stands I am away from the pool a total of about 4 weeks during the summer. Additionally the pool chemical company I use is economical at around $650 a year.
I’m trying to confirm that this is algae because I can’t keep fighting this and will take on chemicals myself if necessary. This type of thing has been happening each spring for the last 3 years.
I have read several threads and understand that daily care of the water is better. I’m just not sure what to do when I have weeks during the summer away from the pool. Also. $12.50 a week for chemical service (that includes all my DE needs as well) is a nice convenience as opposed to doing it myself.
How did you get 160 from the TF-100 CYA test? The test maxes out at 100, and you can't extrapolate between/before/after the numbers due to how it works. Did you mean 60? If it's truly north of 100, that certainly explains your algae problems. You'll need to get the CYA in check (drain/refill) and then SLAM.
Robert,
If your CYA is really 160, you have no choice but to drain a lot of water and start over. Having high CYA is very common for people that use chlorine tablets.
Before you drain anything, it would be wise to test with the TF-100 to make sure what your CYA actually is. It could be well above 160.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If your CYA is really 160, you have no choice but to drain a lot of water and start over. Having high CYA is very common for people that use chlorine tablets.
Before you drain anything, it would be wise to test with the TF-100 to make sure what your CYA actually is. It could be well above 160.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,535
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
See Step 8 in the Extended Test Kit Directions for CYA.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com
My chemical company is known for using very high CYA and very high chlorine, by way of chlorine gas. That’s their process. I’ve never watched my pool chemistry myself. But I’m fed up with what appears to be algae on the walls even though my pool water always looks clear till I brush.
I tested the CYA twice. Per instructions I found in this forum for testing high CYA above 100, I mixed 1/2 tap water and 1/2 pool water. When I tested that mixture it gave me a result of 80 that I then doubled to get 160. It’s possible it could be a bit lower. I added water until I made sure the black dot was truly not visible.
I’ve read the forum enough to know most are going to want me to fire my pool guy and move on. I get it. I can do a better job daily than he can weekly but speaking frankly, It’s time I just don’t have. Not to mention it doesn’t look to be saving me very much money. Even so I’m trying to understand things enough to see what’s happening and decide if I can continue to get by with this pool company by jumping on them and getting things taken care of or if I’m going to have to take this on myself. At the very least I can keep my own eye on my water for a bit enough to have an intelligent conversation with him and know if he’s doing things that will actually work.
From what I’ve read though it doesn’t seem like slamming the pool with a CYA of 160 is possible?
Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate the experience and expertise of the forum.
I tested the CYA twice. Per instructions I found in this forum for testing high CYA above 100, I mixed 1/2 tap water and 1/2 pool water. When I tested that mixture it gave me a result of 80 that I then doubled to get 160. It’s possible it could be a bit lower. I added water until I made sure the black dot was truly not visible.
I’ve read the forum enough to know most are going to want me to fire my pool guy and move on. I get it. I can do a better job daily than he can weekly but speaking frankly, It’s time I just don’t have. Not to mention it doesn’t look to be saving me very much money. Even so I’m trying to understand things enough to see what’s happening and decide if I can continue to get by with this pool company by jumping on them and getting things taken care of or if I’m going to have to take this on myself. At the very least I can keep my own eye on my water for a bit enough to have an intelligent conversation with him and know if he’s doing things that will actually work.
From what I’ve read though it doesn’t seem like slamming the pool with a CYA of 160 is possible?
Thanks for the help. I really do appreciate the experience and expertise of the forum.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,535
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
@JoyfulNoise may have a better understanding of chlorine gas sanitizing methods. We'll see if he may be able to assist. Standby.
See Step 8 in the Extended Test Kit Directions for CYA.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
I'm an idiot! Thanks for the knowledge.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,535
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
No worries. You're not an idiot. The site is all about sharing ideas and knowledge. I learn something new every day.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,786
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, we have chemical gassers here too - high CYA, insanely high FC levels right after they inject and high TA to offset the acidity of adding chlorine gas.
It’s a process that works … until it doesn’t work!
And, unfortunately it has failed and now you’re left with the worst of all possible worlds - algae and high CYA. The recommendation is simple, you need to SLAM your pool. The implementation will be a huge pain because in order to eradicate the algae a SLAM requires the FC to be 40% of the CYA -
0.4 X 160ppm = 64ppm !!!
That’s a crazy amount of liquid chlorine and one that would be nearly impossible to Measure with your test kit.
Also, your DE filter is the worst possible filter to have with an algae bloom as they clog up quickly. You are seeing that now with weekly backwashing.
You’ve got to choose - it’s either the weekly service goes and you fix this or continue down the road of paying for a service that’s not in the best interest of your water chemistry and fixing the algae problem using all sorts of magical potions that will eventually make it all worse.
The answer to travels is this - get a different job … hahah, just kidding. Get a salt water chlorine generator and an automation system. That will allow you to manage the pool while you’re away and an SWG adds chlorine continuously so you don’t have to. It pays for itself in convenience in the long run.
Sorry you’re in this predicament but it’s all hard choices from here on out.
It’s a process that works … until it doesn’t work!
And, unfortunately it has failed and now you’re left with the worst of all possible worlds - algae and high CYA. The recommendation is simple, you need to SLAM your pool. The implementation will be a huge pain because in order to eradicate the algae a SLAM requires the FC to be 40% of the CYA -
0.4 X 160ppm = 64ppm !!!
That’s a crazy amount of liquid chlorine and one that would be nearly impossible to Measure with your test kit.
Also, your DE filter is the worst possible filter to have with an algae bloom as they clog up quickly. You are seeing that now with weekly backwashing.
You’ve got to choose - it’s either the weekly service goes and you fix this or continue down the road of paying for a service that’s not in the best interest of your water chemistry and fixing the algae problem using all sorts of magical potions that will eventually make it all worse.
The answer to travels is this - get a different job … hahah, just kidding. Get a salt water chlorine generator and an automation system. That will allow you to manage the pool while you’re away and an SWG adds chlorine continuously so you don’t have to. It pays for itself in convenience in the long run.
Sorry you’re in this predicament but it’s all hard choices from here on out.
Last edited:
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 3,100
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
We need to cheer you up, i have a SWG and only test 2-3 times a week(after you get to know your pool). I have full automation.
This is what it looks like:
This is what it looks like:
PoolMath
Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com
With the SWCG, I’m down to testing once a week and sometimes I can go a couple weeks if I plan. Once it kinda stabilizes (it never truly stabilizes) you can predict what it’s going to do fairly well and pretreat beforehand. Something to consider. $650 per year would pay for the SWCG pretty fast.
Chlorine gas is very acidic and it will lower the pH quite a bit causing the CSI to drop too low and damage your plaster.
Also, by the time the service returns, the FC is too low and algae is getting out of control.
Looks like mustard algae which is more chlorine resistant than regular algae.
Also, by the time the service returns, the FC is too low and algae is getting out of control.
Looks like mustard algae which is more chlorine resistant than regular algae.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,786
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Normally a gas chlorine service throws in soda ash or baking soda to bump up the TA/pH while injecting. But I doubt many of them are exact about it. I think the convenience of those services is far outweighed by the erratic chemistry they cause.
And SWG is basically like having a gas chlorine service just on a much smaller scale. And there’s far less of a swing in pH when using one.
And SWG is basically like having a gas chlorine service just on a much smaller scale. And there’s far less of a swing in pH when using one.
Man you guys are far too convincing…
I hadn’t thought of a SWCG. Thanks for sharing that idea. I’ll look into automation.
If I got rid of the company next week. Drained water and started over on my own…is there another option for being gone for a full 7-8 days? Maybe I could get a neighborhood kid to come by mid week and add some chlorine? SWCG sounds like a good plan for the future. But I can’t make that change myself before August and I have at least 3 week long trips between now and then.
I think I’m seeing all the things you’re saying I would see. I’ve been concerned that the pebble surface is breaking down because of the companies management of my water. That definitely stinks. He does throw ash in the water. But not every treatment. Maybe once a month, maybe even less often.
I’ve wondered if it could be mustard algae, but I don’t know how to tell for sure. So far it’s definitely only been on the walls. The water is always clear till I brush.
It is sad when looking at the work ahead of me. So I guess next step is to make the hard decision about which pain to take on. It’d sure be nice if I could just tell these guys you caused the problem so fix it. Sadly I think you’re right that they won’t be able to give me a good solution. Ever heard of a chemical company having to cover the damage they caused to a pool surface with poor water management?
I hadn’t thought of a SWCG. Thanks for sharing that idea. I’ll look into automation.
If I got rid of the company next week. Drained water and started over on my own…is there another option for being gone for a full 7-8 days? Maybe I could get a neighborhood kid to come by mid week and add some chlorine? SWCG sounds like a good plan for the future. But I can’t make that change myself before August and I have at least 3 week long trips between now and then.
I think I’m seeing all the things you’re saying I would see. I’ve been concerned that the pebble surface is breaking down because of the companies management of my water. That definitely stinks. He does throw ash in the water. But not every treatment. Maybe once a month, maybe even less often.
I’ve wondered if it could be mustard algae, but I don’t know how to tell for sure. So far it’s definitely only been on the walls. The water is always clear till I brush.
It is sad when looking at the work ahead of me. So I guess next step is to make the hard decision about which pain to take on. It’d sure be nice if I could just tell these guys you caused the problem so fix it. Sadly I think you’re right that they won’t be able to give me a good solution. Ever heard of a chemical company having to cover the damage they caused to a pool surface with poor water management?
- May 23, 2015
- 25,786
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Check their service agreement language and I guarantee that you signed away any right you had to hold them accountable. I’m sure their agreement strictly limits any liability associated with water chemistry balance.
You can try a floater with pucks in it while you are away for a week. That’s probably the best option unless you have neighbor kids who you can trade use of the pool while your gone for adding some chlorine.
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