Polaris Booster plumbing

[Dirk]

Gene, are you replying to a four-year-old thread? I wonder how this all worked out...

 

[proavia]

Well darn - wonder why it popped up in new threads?
I guess that will learn me to check the post dates fiirst.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Dirk]

I got an alert because I had once posted. Maybe someone edited an old post? Or server glitch. Weird. Maybe the OP will come back and tell us what happened...

 

[JodieM]

Hello @Dirk and @proavia. The PB’s plumber did come back out and fix the backwards connection to the booster. It works fine now. The port being in the shallow end isn’t an issue at all. I took one link out of the Polaris line so it does not tangle in the shallow end and it still reaches the furthest point of the deep end. The only issue we ended up having with the system is that the booster pump gets very hot if it runs during the day as it faces due south and it will shut itself off for protection and then kick on again when it cools. That caused my Intermatic timer to get a power surge ( guessing for lack of words) and burn out. The pool techs said I should have had it wired for 220 instead of 110. My electrician replaced the timer clock guts last week after it being broke for 2 years. He said to re- wire the booster for 220 would mean the whole pool electrical panel would also have to be re-wired as it is all 110. I reset the booster pump/Polaris timer and pool pump timer to run on high speed at night so the sun and heat would no longer be a factor. I can take a new pic of the plumbing tomorrow.

 

[Dirk]

Thanks for the update! Glad it worked out. It seems odd that a booster pump would overheat in the sun. Where else would it be used!? The overcurrent problem that burned out the timer might be a clue, but I don't know enough about it. It was my understanding that a pump draws the same Watts regardless if wired 120 or 240. Perhaps @mas985 could offer some insight.

 

[JamesW]

Overheating usually means that the flow is too high due to insufficient resistance from the pump to the cleaner.

Check the voltage and current while the pump is running.

Most likely, the amperage is too high.

 

[Dirk]

Overheating usually means that the flow is too high due to insufficient resistance from the pump to the cleaner.

Check the voltage and current while the pump is running.

Most likely, the amperage is too high.

Interesting. If they left that ball valve on the pressure side of the booster pump (after the replumb fix), could that be used to increase the resistance and lower the amperage, if the OP finds that it is too high?

Usually you see longer runs of flexible hose connecting both the suction and pressure ports of a booster pump to the plumbing. Would the way they ran the 2" PVC almost right up to the pump make a difference in the flow resistance?

How does he (she?) determine the correct voltage and current to look for? Just use the numbers that appear on the pump's spec's label?

 

[JamesW]

The voltage and current should be labeled on the motor.

There is a red or blue restrictor disc that can be used in the wall fitting.

 

[JodieM]

So thank you for validating my concerns. I have had 3 other pools with booster pumps and Polaris sweepers ( in NC, TN and GA) and this is the ONLY booster pump that has ever acted this way and I love in Indiana. It is the only booster I’ve had sit in full sun all day, so I guess I just bought the line from the PB. Here are my pictures of the set up. When you talk about resistance, is that water pressure your speaking about? If it is too much amperage, what is the fix for that?

 

[JamesW]

The pump can use 230 or 115.

If the voltage is 115, the amps should be less than 12.8.

If the voltage is 230, the amperage should be less than 6.4.

See if the wall fitting has a blue or red disc.

If not, add the blue or the red disc by snapping it in.

 

[JamesW]

The pump has a pretty tight range for gpm, which is about 8 to 14 gpm.

If the resistance is too low, the flow will go too high and the amperage will go too high.

100 feet of head is 43 psi and that is about the lowest pressure that the pump should generate.

At 100 feet of head, the flow is about 19 gpm.

 

[JamesW]

Deleted.

 

[JodieM]

I ordered the red and blue restricter disks from Amazon. I’ll update how they effect anything. Must wait for a really hot day though.

 

[JamesW]

They should have come with the unit.

Do you have the original box?

Did you look to see if the disc was in?

 

[JodieM]

They should have come with the unit.

Do you have the original box?

Did you look to see if the disc was in?

I bought the Polaris second hand.

 

[proavia]

Well, I certainly am glad I somehow responded to a 4 year old post, @Dirk popped in to raz me about my (very late) response, which prompted @JodieM (OP) to reply. Then Jodie stated another related issue that @JamesW was able to help her out with.

 

[Dirk]

Well, I certainly am glad I somehow responded to a 4 year old post, @Dirk popped in to raz me about my (very late) response, which prompted @JodieM (OP) to reply. Then Jodie stated another related issue that @JamesW was able to help her out.

Yes, I'm just biding my time for the end result. At which point I'll either delete my post or take full credit for the fix! Heh, heh, heh.

 

[JodieM]

I appreciate you guys. I’ve been questioning this booster pump issue for 4 years. Have had the pool company out twice and they gave me the same song and dance about the sun, overhearing, etc. I’m excited to try the restricters when they come in to see if that solves my problem!

 

[JamesW]

If possible, check the voltage and current before and after adding the restrictor.

 

[Dirk]

Measuring voltage is pretty easy, even if you're only slightly handy. Measuring amps is more involved, and possibly more dangerous, because you have to take things apart. Here are some good tips:

Just be careful, please. Electricity and water and all that. Be smart, or hire a pro (or both!).