Can someone tell me if my salt cell is reading ok? I’m still new to reading and understanding it. I have gone to the pool store to have water tested and each time the salt and chlorine were very low. Salt currently reading 3300 but seems to be 500-600 less with the water samples at the pool store which has left me wondering what’s accurate?
Hayward Aquarite T-9 SWG
- Thread starter Jcsmith9
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,972
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You need your own K-1766 Taylor Salt Test to have an accurate test of your salinity.
From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
The AquaRite uses the performance of the cell to determine salinity. For each cell (T-3, T-5, T-9 OR T-15), Hayward knows the performance of a properly functioning cell at each temperature and salinity combination. The higher the salinity and/or water temperature, the higher the performance (chlorine output).
To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
There is no separate salinity sensor in an AquaRite.
From Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
The AquaRite uses the performance of the cell to determine salinity. For each cell (T-3, T-5, T-9 OR T-15), Hayward knows the performance of a properly functioning cell at each temperature and salinity combination. The higher the salinity and/or water temperature, the higher the performance (chlorine output).
To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
There is no separate salinity sensor in an AquaRite.
Yea. Here are the current readings.
- Default salt display 3200
- Pool temp 73
- Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current. 27.0
- Cell current 4.23
- Desired output (% of the knob). I have it turned to 80 with super chlorinate off (is this ok?)
- Instant salinity -3200
- Product name AL-0
- Software revision (r.XX) 1.58
- Cell type T-9
How old is the cell?
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
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The percentage test indicates that the cell is about 85%.
If the cell is original, it is probably wearing out.
Check the cell for scale and clean it if necessary but only if necessary.
Get a K-1766 salt test kit.
If the cell is original, it is probably wearing out.
Check the cell for scale and clean it if necessary but only if necessary.
Get a K-1766 salt test kit.
I don’t have that right in front of me at the moment but will send when I have it. I can tell you the year is 2017.
Is this a good percentage? The cell was here when we bought our house. The one I’m using was literally in box and looked like it had never been used so I replaced it with the one that was already hooked up after I didn’t think it was reading right.