IC40 salt level lights blinking red and green…?

Dirtrakfan21

Member
Mar 29, 2022
19
Clayton, NC
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I purchased a home with a salt pool so I am trying to learn how to run it. Recently the IC40 salt level lights began blinking red to green constantly and the flow light stayed red. I replaced the flow sensor (the Pentair sensor had cracks in it) and it would work correctly for a short period of time and then go back to blinking red and green with a red flow light. Could a high salt content (over 4,000) cause that to happen? It seems to work ok when the salt level reads below 4,000.
 
D,

The lights blink when the IC40 tests the salt level.. But, it can't test squat if the flow light is on. You need to fix the flow problem first, before you do anything else.

Could be..

Pump speed too low
Dirty filter
Bad flow switch assy

The first thing to check is the flow of water back to the pool. Put your hand in front of a pool return and see if you can feel a good strong flow of water.

What is your filter and how long ago was it cleaned?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I purchased a home with a salt pool so I am trying to learn how to run it. Recently the IC40 salt level lights began blinking red to green constantly and the flow light stayed red. I replaced the flow sensor (the Pentair sensor had cracks in it) and it would work correctly for a short period of time and then go back to blinking red and green with a red flow light. Could a high salt content (over 4,000) cause that to happen? It seems to work ok when the salt level reads below 4,000.
D,

The lights blink when the IC40 tests the salt level.. But, it can't test squat if the flow light is on. You need to fix the flow problem first, before you do anything else.

Could be..

Pump speed too low
Dirty filter
Bad flow switch assy

The first thing to check is the flow of water back to the pool. Put your hand in front of a pool return and see if you can feel a good strong flow of water.

What is your filter and how long ago was it cleaned?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks Jim. There is a great flow back into the pool but I havent had a chance to get the filter open to look at it. It’s reading 10 psi on the gauge but I dont know when it was cleaned last since I just moved here in December 2021. Thats my next project. Its a Pentair FNS Plus filter. I replaced the flow switch with an Optimum Pool Technologies Replacement Flow Switch from Poolguy online.
 
D,

If you have good flow then it is not your filter.

I'd look again at the flow switch. Pretty easy to put it in backward, or not have the little wire connector making good contact.

I have never seen an IC 40 that shows low flow and the cell itself be bad. Always an actual flow issue, or a bad flow switch issue of some kind.

Why did you replace the original flow switch? Did your old one have 4 wires or 3? How many wires on the new one? How many wires come from the cell?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
D,

If you have good flow then it is not your filter.

I'd look again at the flow switch. Pretty easy to put it in backward, or not have the little wire connector making good contact.

I have never seen an IC 40 that shows low flow and the cell itself be bad. Always an actual flow issue, or a bad flow switch issue of some kind.

Why did you replace the original flow switch? Did your old one have 4 wires or 3? How many wires on the new one? How many wires come from the cell?

Thanks,

Jim R.
The old flow switch wasn’t reading so I pulled it out to check and it had cracks running down the plastic part in the cell itself (reason I replaced). 4 wires on the old part and 4 wires on the new part so they matched up (image included). I’ll double check those connections but think I’ll start with the filter first to see if any issues there.
 

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D,
Hi and welcome, You need to fill out your signature with all the equipment to make it easier to help you. You say you have strong flow at the return so most likely it isn't a filter issue. I don't know what pump you have and 10 psi isn't bad if it's running on a higher rpm but at a lower rpm 10 psi is restrictive. As Jim ^^^^^^ said concentrate on the flow switch area. Possibly a reverse position so instead of closing it's being maintained open do check for the arrow pointing to the direction of flow. Also check that all the wire connections are solid and making good contact.
 
D,

If you have good flow then it is not your filter.

I'd look again at the flow switch. Pretty easy to put it in backward, or not have the little wire connector making good contact.

I have never seen an IC 40 that shows low flow and the cell itself be bad. Always an actual flow issue, or a bad flow switch issue of some kind.

Why did you replace the original flow switch? Did your old one have 4 wires or 3? How many wires on the new one? How many wires come from the cell?

Thanks,

Jim R.
The old flow switch wasn’t reading so I pulled it out to check and it had cracks running down the plastic part in the cell itself (reason I replaced). 4 wires on the old part and 4 wires on the new part so they matched up. I’ll double check the connections but think I’ll start with the filter first to see if any issues.
 
After taking apart the filter and cleaning all grids, I decided to take the wire connectors off of the flow switch I just put in. I stripped the wires back and doubled them up in the connector to get a better connection and now its seems to be working correctly as the pic shows. Thanks for all the advice on checking the sensor connections.
 

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Well…after letting it run for about an hour, the flow light went red again. At least the salt level lights arent flashing now. I am wondering now should I turn my pump rpms up. It was set at 750 rpm and I’ve turned it up to 950 now but the flow light is still red. Thoughts?
 

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I never recommend running below 1000 RPM.. In my case I have a very simple pool with a cartridge filter and have to run at 1200 RPM. A DE filter has a higher loss so I would keep ramping the RPM up until the flow light just turns green, and then add 100 RPM.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I never recommend running below 1000 RPM.. In my case I have a very simple pool with a cartridge filter and have to run at 1200 RPM. A DE filter has a higher loss so I would keep ramping the RPM up until the flow light just turns green, and then add 100 RPM.

Thanks,

Jim R.
I am up to 1600 rpm now and still red. How many rpms is too high?
 
Your signature shows a Pentair 1HP pump. I assume you now have a VS pump. When possible, please update the signature.
 
Pictures of equipment pad as requested. Pump RPM at 1800 and IC40 salt level lights still flashing red and green with flow light red. Been that way all day.
 

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The lights blink when the IC40 tests the salt level.. But, it can't test squat if the flow light is on. You need to fix the flow problem first, before you do anything else.

Could be..

Pump speed too low
Dirty filter
Bad flow switch assy

If you never get past the red flow light, it will flash red /green forever.

Ramp it up to 3000 and see of the flow light ever goes out.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
My pump is a Pentair 1HP (single speed) p/n 340038. Does this mean that no matter what setting I put in my Easy Touch for my IntelliFlo 4 that it wont change the pump output flow? I am new to this setup (just purchased home in Dec).
Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Jeff,

You have a single speed pump.. It runs full speed all the time. The EasyTouch will only change the speeds of variable speed pumps, like the IntelliFlo or the new SuperFlo VS.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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