High PSI After Variable Speed Pump Install

[ugadawgs311]

I recently had a variable speed pump installed to replace an old, worn-out single speed pump. The water seems to be moving fine, but I noticed that the PSI gauge is reading way above the max (60+PSI). Is this normal with variable speed pumps? Do I need to adjust some other settings somewhere to lower the pressure? I tried backwashing, but that didn't seem to do anything. The pump is currently running at 2400 RPM.

Also, not sure if this matters, but I'm currently only intaking water through the main drain. I have a leak near my steps (I think) so the water level is currently below the skimmer level.

 

[Jimrahbe]

311,

Show us some pics.. Your filter pressure at 2400 RPM should be way less than 60 PSI. If the water is moving fine, then I would assume a bad gauge.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Here are the pics. I promise the PSI gauge isn't stuck. I was able to move it down about 5-10 PSI with some minor tweaking, but nothing more than that.

EDIT: Sorry, the pump is at 2600 rpm now. It was 2800, but I lowered it to see if that would make a difference (it didn't). I even lowered it to 500 to no avail.

I should also note, that even when I turned the pump off, the PSI still reads high. Could that be caused by pressure within the plumbing? I also released the air relief valve on top of the sand filter. It hissed for a little while then stopped, however the PSI didn't drop by more than 5.

 

[Newdude]

off, the PSI still reads high. Could that be caused by pressure within the plumbing? I also released the air relief valve on top of the sand filter. It hissed for a little while then stopped, however the PSI didn't drop by more than 5.

Great news !!! You've hands down proven a bad gauge,, and they are cheap. Get one that only goes to 30 as it's way easier to read, say, an 8.

There is no pressure to the system when off, yet the vacuum / finger on a straw effect will keep it all full of water. You then added air to the system to allow it to drain and guaranteed ended at 0 PSI. But the gage still said 55.

 

[mknauss]

I should also note, that even when I turned the pump off, the PSI still reads high.

The gauge has failed. Replace the gauge. It should go to ZERO with the pump off. There is no contained pressure in a pool system.

 

[ugadawgs311]

That’s great news! Thank you both! I’ll order a new gushed and replace to see if that solves it.

Any recommendations on a particular brand? Looks like there are a lot online.

Out of curiosity: what happens if a pump runs at too high pressure for too long?

 

[mknauss]

A pool pump is not designed for high pressure. The flow rate lessens as the pressure rises. Eventually it will cease flow. At that time, it can overheat the water in the pump and cause damage to the pump.

 

[ajw22]

This gauge will work well. You don’t need more then a 30 psi gauge and it will be easier to read.

Center-mounted Pressure Gauge

tftestkits.net

 

[ugadawgs311]

Thanks, everyone for the help. Do these gauges simply screw on/off for installation?

 

[ajw22]

Yes, the PSI screws off and on. Dont over tighten it. Snug using hand pressure is all you need to do.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Yes, the PSI screws off and on. Dont over tighten it. Snug using hand pressure is all you need to do.

Got the new gauge installed! Thanks for the tips! PSI is hovering around 13-16 PSI.

 

[Jimrahbe]

311,

Just to give you a reference point.. My filter pressure is 1 or 2 lbs, when running at 1200 RPM.

What RPM are you running to get a filter pressure of 13 to 16 PSI?

The whole point of having a VS pump is to run it as slow as you can that still allows your pool to work. The lower the speed the less it costs and the quieter it is.

I can run my pump at 1200 RPM 24/7 for a month for less than $20 bucks a month.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ugadawgs311]

311,

Just to give you a reference point.. My filter pressure is 1 or 2 lbs, when running at 1200 RPM.

What RPM are you running to get a filter pressure of 13 to 16 PSI?

The whole point of having a VS pump is to run it as slow as you can that still allows your pool to work. The lower the speed the less it costs and the quieter it is.

I can run my pump at 1200 RPM 24/7 for a month for less than $20 bucks a month.

Thanks,

Jim R.

When the tech installed the new pump, he set it up to run: 2800 RPM for 6 hours, 2200 RPM for 10 hours, 1800 RPM for 8 hours (I need to double check to verify, but that's roughly what he said). FYI, my pool is about 22,500 gallons.

 

[Jimrahbe]

311,

I see no logical reason for the speeds that your tech selected. Did he tell you why those speeds for those times?

If you are happy, then I am happy, but the slower you run the lower the electrical bill.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Newdude]

Also ran 24/7 around 1200 rpms for $20 ish a month. I never once thought about filtering or skimming in 9.5 years. My SWG kept me perfectly topped off with FC just a skootch above target level. I *rarely* thought about that.

 

[pjt]

Depending on your setup, you may be able to run your pump at a very low speed. I'm running my pump 24/7 at 1,000 rpm, which is enough to close the flow switch on the SWG and provide good skimming and circulation. It costs me $5/month total in electricity. The needle on the pressure gauge rests at zero.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Hmm all good points on the running the pump at a lower RPM... Is there a way to test the effectiveness of the lower RPMs? Basically, is there a way to make sure that the water is circulating enough?

I imagine regular water checks and overall appearance will be the biggest test, but right now during winter the water usually looks pretty clear. The hotter, sunnier, summer months will be the best test.

 

[Newdude]

Any speed will circulate the water fine. To test the skimming, start as low as you can and add 100 RPMs until the weir door is flapping away every 15-20 (?) Seconds. That's your baseline for effective skimming.

With a SWG, heater, cleaner, or water features you do the same, adding 100 RPMs until rhe flow switch is satisfied or the cleaner functions. Then add 100 RPMs to that to account for flow decrease as the filter gets dirty.

Run any of your baseline speeds to accommodate whatever you need to do. With multiple things running, the highest speed will satisfy the others.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Any speed will circulate the water fine. To test the skimming, start as low as you can and add 100 RPMs until the weir door is flapping away every 15-20 (?) Seconds. That's your baseline for effective skimming.

With a SWG, heater, cleaner, or water features you do the same, adding 100 RPMs until rhe flow switch is satisfied or the cleaner functions. Then add 100 RPMs to that to account for flow decrease as the filter gets dirty.

Run any of your baseline speeds to accommodate whatever you need to do. With multiple things running, the highest speed will satisfy the others.

Where is the flapping “weird door” you mentioned? Also, is a SWG a reference to a salt water system? I don’t have one of those… sorry for any confusion here!

 

[Newdude]

Where is the flapping “weird door” you mentioned?

On the front of the skimmer. You need a door to achieve effective skimming

Also, is a SWG a reference to a salt water system? I don’t have one of those… sorry for any confusion here!

OK then disregard. Click the Hamburger menu in the upper left. Then click the bald dude. Then click signature and go buck wild with your pool specs. Type, size, equipment and model #s. It GREATLY helps all the helpers not have to ask questions about your questions. Or give you advice for the SWG you don't have.