water tested at Leslie's Pool

[msally]

Hello, I'm new to this forum so I apologize in advance if I miss any details. We started having algae, both green and yellow, and shocked the pool twice without any change. So we had our water tested at the pool supply store.

Free Chlorine 22
Total Alkalinity 60
Calcium Hardness 670
Cyanuric Acid 160
Phosphates 4000

He told us to drain our pool which is what we are doing as I type. We were also given a list of recommended supplies worth hundreds of dollars. I'm wondering if all of the supplies are necessary or is it the best way to go? We are grateful for any advice or suggestions.

 

[nobody291]

If you haven't already started draining, I would wait and take some time to decide if you really want to drain, and if you do how much you'll want to drain, and what your plan will be afterward. This isn't really pool season anyway even for those of us in Socal, so there's no rush to deal with this.

The TFP method is different than the method that Leslie's will try to get you to use. One of the main pillars of TFP is to do your own testing...you can read about recommended test kits here:

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why not use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

I think most of us use the TF-100 that you can order through the link in that article.

While you wait for your test kit, read through the Pool School articles, starting with this one:

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

There are lots of informative articles in Pool School beyond that one. Take your time, read the most interesting articles a few times, and then ask questions here in the forum.

Once you have the test kit, then you can test your own water, and the results will be more reliable than Leslie's.

I used Leslie's for the first 2 years we had our pool here, and pretty much every time I would go in, they would have at least $100 worth of things I needed to buy. Their methods aren't sustainable in my experience.

 

[ajw22]

You are being Pool Stored. You can get all the chemicals you need for less at big box stores- liquid chlorine, muriatic acid and stabilizer.

You need your own test kit. Read the links in..

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes. You need to drain your pool to get your CYA and CH down to Recommended Levels

Then follow our SLAM Process to clear the algae using liquid chlorine.

 

[msally]

Thank you so much for your reply. You are right, we should have waited to drain but I was the one who wanted to "nip the algae in the bud" without any certainty. We have relied on Leslie's Supply for so long, I feel we're lost on our own but it's so financially draining.

I was going through the forum and I noticed the TF-100 is popular here. I just didn't know where to find the info so I appreciate the links.

 

[msally]

You are being Pool Stored. You can get all the chemicals you need for less at big box stores- liquid chlorine, muriatic acid and stabilizer.

You need your own test kit. Read the links in..

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes. You need to drain your pool to get your CYA and CH down to Recommended Levels

Then follow our SLAM Process to clear the algae using liquid chlorine.

I'm not fully sure what "pool stored" means but I think we've been pool stored for several years lol. Honestly, I didn't think there were any other options. But maybe there is still hope for me after all, I'll start reading from those links tonight.

Thanks for your advice, really needed it. The pool is drained down to 1/3rd today and hopefully to the halfway mark tomorrow. I'll read more of these articles in the meantime.

 

[HermanTX]

Since you are draining and also have algae. It would be best to go source liquid chlorine now. You may need 8-12 gals initially with a 20k pool. Do not use chlorine pucks or granular shock which Leslie's most likely proposed. You can purchase liquid chlorine (LC) at Home Depot or Ace hardware. Leslie's also sells LC but probably best not to give them any more of your $$. The hardware stores should sell LC with a content of 10% sodium hypochlorite which is the active ingredient.

Once you get your test kit, the experts can help you get the pool balanced and clean up the algae.

You may want to update your signature with the type of filter you have as well as what type of pool cleaner. Those will come into play to clean up the algae.

 

[msally]

Since you are draining and also have algae. It would be best to go source liquid chlorine now. You may need 8-12 gals initially with a 20k pool. Do not use chlorine pucks or granular shock which Leslie's most likely proposed. You can purchase liquid chlorine (LC) at Home Depot or Ace hardware. Leslie's also sells LC but probably best not to give them any more of your $$. The hardware stores should sell LC with a content of 10% sodium hypochlorite which is the active ingredient.

Once you get your test kit, the experts can help you get the pool balanced and clean up the algae.

You may want to update your signature with the type of filter you have as well as what type of pool cleaner. Those will come into play to clean up the algae.

Oh wow, thanks for this. We have never even heard of liquid chlorine. I had to go to "pool school" and read the article, thank you so much. The pool will be at the halfway mark soon, and we'll start refilling later this afternoon. Should I wait to have it tested first before adding the liquid chlorine?
8-12 gallons I feel we'll clean out this item at Home Depot. I'm guessing this is how we shock with liquid chlorine? The chlorine level was high before the drain. The Leslies guy said Free Chlorine maxes out on their computer at 15 and ours actually read 22. Normal is 1-4 ppm.

You're right, we have a bucket of pucks in our garage and a bucket of Leslie's Power Powder Plus 73 (calcium hypochlorite...73%). Over $400 just on those two and we end up draining our pool. At least, I will try to do it correctly hereon. I plan to order one of the test kits today.

Yes, thank you for reminding me. I'll update the pump type and filter on my signature. I need to dig up the manual which I had in mind to do today.

We don't have a cleaner. We just use a vacuum and sweep the walls.

Thank you kindly for your input. As all the others who have, it's very helpful!

 

[mknauss]

Sell the cal hypo. The pucks you can use occasionally.

Get a test kit. The Leslie's comments on FC are so wrong. See FC/CYA Levels

 

[msally]

Sell the cal hypo. The pucks you can use occasionally.

Get a test kit. The Leslie's comments on FC are so wrong. See FC/CYA Levels

I was wondering what we were going to do with the supplies that might be unnecessary. I have that site bookmarked, thanks so much

 

[HermanTX]

The pool will be at the halfway mark soon, and we'll start refilling later this afternoon. Should I wait to have it tested first before adding the liquid chlorine?

It will take 12-20 hours to add back 10k (most likely). It is always best to test before you add any chemical. You will be diluting your existing pool water so your CYA, the CH and the FC should all be lower once you fil back up but we won't know the value until you can test. Have you ordered your test kit?

8-12 gallons I feel we'll clean out this item at Home Depot. I'm guessing this is how we shock with liquid chlorine?

Yes the LC is used to raise your FC level to what we call SLAM level. Please read SLAM Process. Since you have algae, you will need to significantly raise your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels. So you need to know what the values are for CYA and FC before you start.

Also, after the algae is gone, you will continue to use LC to chlorinate your pool. So that will not go to waste. You will not need the cal-hypo. I wonder if Leslies will exchange that for LC? That would help offset your costs. You can keep the pucks for sparingly use when you go on vacation.

 

[msally]

It will take 12-20 hours to add back 10k (most likely). It is always best to test before you add any chemical. You will be diluting your existing pool water so your CYA, the CH and the FC should all be lower once you fil back up but we won't know the value until you can test. Have you ordered your test kit?


Yes the LC is used to raise your FC level to what we call SLAM level. Please read SLAM Process. Since you have algae, you will need to significantly raise your FC based on the FC/CYA Levels. So you need to know what the values are for CYA and FC before you start.

Also, after the algae is gone, you will continue to use LC to chlorinate your pool. So that will not go to waste. You will not need the cal-hypo. I wonder if Leslies will exchange that for LC? That would help offset your costs. You can keep the pucks for sparingly use when you go on vacation.

The pool is now refilling and I'm going to leave it ongoing overnight. I also ordered the TF-100 kit tonight.

We're passed Leslie's 30 day refund/exchange policy, in any case we have already chalked it up as an expensive lesson learned. And I've gotten myself edumacated on water chemistry basics this weekend whereas I hadn't even thought twice about before.

I read the SLAM process. On the FC/CYA Chart under the tab SLAM, the column SLAM FC with the rows 12, 16, 20, 24 <-- I'm assuming those are gallons. ..holy moly.

I'll be sure to gather them before the kit arrives, thank you!!

 

[ajw22]

I read the SLAM process. On the FC/CYA Chart under the tab SLAM, the column SLAM FC with the rows 12, 16, 20, 24 <-- I'm assuming those are gallons. ..holy moly.

No, the numbers are ppm of FC to maintain for a given CYA during the SLAM Process. Basically the SLAM FC level is 40% of the CYA value.

In your 20,000 gallon pool, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 5 ppm. With CYA 40 your SLAM FC is 16 and if your FC started at 0 you would add a bit over 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine to get to the SLAM FC level.

We use the PoolMath app to do the calculations.

 

[msally]

No, the numbers are ppm of FC to maintain for a given CYA during the SLAM Process. Basically the SLAM FC level is 40% of the CYA value.

In your 20,000 gallon pool, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 5 ppm. With CYA 40 your SLAM FC is 16 and if your FC started at 0 you would add a bit over 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine to get to the SLAM FC level.

We use the PoolMath app to do the calculations.

Ohh I had it all wrong. I understand it now, thank you! I like this formula much better lol. I've installed the app too, I so appreciate your help!!

 

[jark87]

Like you, I was somewhat reliant on my local Leslie’s until I found this site a decade ago. I was lucky in that my original “pool school” was provided by my builder and it included a Taylor test kit. He emphasized trusting the kit over pool store results - great advice! It made me question many of the recommendations that I got from Leslie’s and also helped when their results significantly varied from mine.

As several have recommended above, a good test kit is your best friend when it comes to maintaining your pool. Once you get in the habit and start understanding the results, including the chemistry relationships (not as intimidating as it sounds), you’ll feel so much better about the whole process. And it’s super easy! I spend less than 10 minutes per week “managing” my pool - even less during the winter.

I still shop at Leslie’s, as I like the convenience. They have also helped me with testing/repairs of things like my cleaner and filter grids, so I do appreciate their service. I occasionally get my water tested there just as a comparison to my own results, but just smile and say “no thank you” if they suggest something that I know I don’t need.

 

[msally]

Like you, I was somewhat reliant on my local Leslie’s until I found this site a decade ago. I was lucky in that my original “pool school” was provided by my builder and it included a Taylor test kit. He emphasized trusting the kit over pool store results - great advice! It made me question many of the recommendations that I got from Leslie’s and also helped when their results significantly varied from mine.

As several have recommended above, a good test kit is your best friend when it comes to maintaining your pool. Once you get in the habit and start understanding the results, including the chemistry relationships (not as intimidating as it sounds), you’ll feel so much better about the whole process. And it’s super easy! I spend less than 10 minutes per week “managing” my pool - even less during the winter.

I still shop at Leslie’s, as I like the convenience. They have also helped me with testing/repairs of things like my cleaner and filter grids, so I do appreciate their service. I occasionally get my water tested there just as a comparison to my own results, but just smile and say “no thank you” if they suggest something that I know I don’t need.

Thank you so much for your reply! I was reading through some of these articles and posts last night and the thought did cross my mind; I wondered if it might be too time-consuming in the long run with all these tests and having to check daily, etc. So I'm grateful for your post. Now I won't relapse and fall into my old ways. lol

The pool completed filling today. I used a test strip from AquaChek just to have an estimate. (Have no fear, I won't do anything until the kit arrives Thursday.) The test strip I used before the drain was entirely maxed out, I mean the colors for "high" were so dark that they couldn't be any darker lol.

Here's the results today:

pH 8.0 (label reads ok to high)
Free Chlorine 10+ (high)
Total Alkalinity 120 (ok)
Cyanuric Acid 60-70 (ok)

I'm just happy the CYA is low enough that I hopefully won't need to drain again. I also noticed there's a dust of green on the pool floor.. I'd like to think it's dead algae and the pool is slamming itself lol. I got 6 gallons of liquid chlorine yesterday so I can be armed and ready for the algae battle.

Thank you again.

 

[Casey]

I would wait until your TF100 comes in before you start your SLAM. Don't go off the test strips (guess strips). Run your filter and add a gallon of LC daily until the kit comes in. That will keep and algae from exploding in your pool until we can assist you through your first SLAM.

If you can find a neighbor who needs/wants the cal hypo, make them a deal n at least get some money back. You're going to love your brand new TFP Pool.

 

[newdude]

I wondered if it might be too time-consuming in the long run with all these tests and having to check daily, etc

Well yes, but really no. it becomes second nature and takes minutes. Like, 3 total. The UV / daily FC loss is like a bell curve. There is less in the early / late season and much more in the peak season. After you've been at it for a while you will just know the recent trends and if it's been needing XX dose everyday for the last 2 weeks, you'll expect similar for the next two weeks. Any given day that's busy can be double dosed, possibly with a skootch extra for some wiggle room just in case. At that point it's 3 or so minutes every other day. An ounce of prevention whoops a pound of cure here so its time WELL spent. Fixing a swamp can take 2 weeks and $100-$200 in chlorine. You'll be brushing and vacuuming several times a day and babysitting the filter.
Your pool will tell you everything it needs if you listen. In the end, something so overwhelming is almost laughable at how easy it becomes.

 

[msally]

Thank you! Thank you! That's encouraging to read. I hope to be at a place someday where pool maintenance is simple and not so costly.

I haven't added or changed anything with the water since the refill, and the test kit arrived a day early - today. I wasn't sure where to post my semi-results. So, my apologies in advance if I'm going against a TFP etiquette.

FC 18.5
CC 1.5

The test for Calcium Hardness has me stumped. It says to stop when it turns blue but mine turned clear. I figure I made an error. I redid the test, double-checking each step and reagent but the colors were still the same. It wouldn't surprise me if the CH is so high that it skipped the blue and just canceled it clear due to the years of Leslies abuse lol. I have read the extended instructional version here but I still haven't figured out what went wrong. In any case, it fully cleared at drop 16.

The CYA is over 100. Exactly 1/4th inch from 100 (yes, I used a measurement). This is surprising because I thought the draining/refill would drop it below 100. So I redid the test with the same solution, just to be certain and redid it again from scratch. All of the results were very close, if not equal.

I didn't take the TA and pH tests since it already looks as if I need to drain the pool again. Unless I should take those two tests? If I drain the pool, I'll probably do a complete drain this time and just start anew.

Any thoughts or suggestions are very welcome.

 

[newdude]

FC 18.5
CC 1.5

Normally the 1.5 CCs would be a red flag (over 1) but because you will need to drain, it's not that important right now.

The CYA is over 100. Exactly 1/4th inch from 100

100 or above isn't readable the way it appears as it's a logarithmic scale and not a linear one. So we do a dilution test and mix half pool water with half tap water. Your result will be half of the actual # so you double the result. If it's still high, use 2 parts tap and one part pool and triple the result. The amount needed to drain is an exact %. To get from 100 to 30 for example, you need to drain 70%. Rerun the test diluted.

The test for Calcium Hardness has me stumped

Hang tight for this answer. I had a vinyl pool with low calcium so I never got great with this test and all it's quirks. But the result is also not that important as you'll be lowering it considerably when draining.

The TA and PH can also wait but feel free to practice them.

CYA usually gets high with a pool store / service pool. Tabs and shock come in 2 varieties. Chlorine + CYA and chlorine + Calcium. One or both tend to be through the roof by the time we get a chance to help.

 

[ajw22]

Test your tap water for CH. Also pH and TA.

That will give you some practice and also give us an idea what your chemistry will be after draining.