water tested at Leslie's Pool

[msally]

I appreciate all of the pool doctors and pool teachers here, I got it done.

Pool Water:
CYA 180

For CYA, I diluted x1 and tested it twice outdoors then again indoors. Diluted x2 following the same process. I wanted to be quadruple-y certain I got it right. And I followed and read the kit instructions and the "Extended Test Kit Directions" from this site, including the tips for accuracy. I'm determined to have the de-pool stored life. lol

CYA usually gets high with a pool store / service pool.

I understand... the chlorine powder we used are chlorine + calcium and the tablets are chlorine + cyanuric acid. And realizing cyanuric acid is at 180 now, it must have been at least in the 300's before the drain.

Tap Water:
CH 300
TA 190
pH 8.2+ (translucent red fushia-like color)

Here is Leslie's test results (by the same person) before and after the drain.

Total Alkalinity 60...70
Calcium Hardness 670...695
Cyanuric Acid 160...145

From the pump used to drain the pool, I calculated 12,000 gallons were refilled. It was hard to tell where the halfway mark was, so the overall pool might really be 25k. Either way, I don't see how CYA fell so minimally and there is an increase in CH. Leslie's, Leslie's.. smh, our relationship will never be the same again. But I've learned all of the mistakes I made through this. A week ago I didn't even know those round tablets had another name "puck" and pool water had any chemistry to balance. Nonetheless I'm kicking myself for not going with my instinct to drain the whole pool initially.

Thank you for the great advice to run the other tests. The practice helped me feel comfortable with the kit by now and it's quick. The most fun is the TA test.

Drain #2 hasn't started yet but it will be soon. I guesstimate it'll take 2 weeks for the whole process.

 

[Newdude]

Here is Leslie's test results (by the same person) before and after the drain.

This is part of the problem. Their CYA tests are particularly off, and usually high. Without an accurate start point, you don't know what you really need. CYA is only added when you add it. So the tap/fill water is 0. Whatever % you drained will drop it the same % If your expected 50% drain was really only 35%, you still should have seen a larger drop.

What did your test say after the drain ? (Only use that from now on)

 

[HermanTX]

Either way, I don't see how CYA fell so minimally and there is an increase in CH. Leslie's, Leslie's.. smh, our relationship will never be the same again.

You have just shown why pool store results are inconsistent. Even though you had the same person, either he/she contaminated your water sample with someone else's, he/she is inexperienced and not consistent in their process and/or the electronic reader is not calibrated. Most likely a combination of all 3. Thanks for sharing and also great success in your own testing process. The more you do it, the better you will become.

 

[msally]

CYA is currently 180. Thank you for the dilution method!! I tried it several times.

Thank you Hermantx I'm learning the hard way.

I'm wondering if I did the FC test wrong. On the kit, it says "1 scoop, exact amount is not important". But the Extended Version says "add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers". Which guide should I use?

 

[Newdude]

I'm learning the hard way.

All good Sally !! You questioned yourself and went back to the pool store. They only added more questions. You have now been reinforced that for better or worse, you can only trust yourself.

CYA is currently 180.

So you drained a bunch and it's still high. That means it was really that much higher to start. Whatever % you drained (always difficult to guess without perfect water meter readings) you were exactly that % higher originally. A new 75% drain will get you to 40. If you drain multiple times to do less each time, you also lose fresh water with it. Each subsequent drain becomes slightly less effective. Some have no choice either with poor runoff / drain options, or groundwater floating the shell / liner worries. It still works, but you'll have to do some math to figure how many extra drains you'll need.

I'm wondering if I did the FC test wrong. On the kit, it says "1 scoop, exact amount is not important". But the Extended Version says "add one heaping dipper, or two level dippers". Which guide should I use

Play with it, and here is how. If you add too much powder, the extra won't dissolve. You want to add enough (heaping scoop being subjective to the scooper) that there is one or two grains of powder swishing around undisolved. Then repeat that scoop forever.

 

[msally]

Play with it, and here is how. If you add too much powder, the extra won't dissolve. You want to add enough (heaping scoop being subjective to the scooper) that there is one or two grains of powder swishing around undisolved. Then repeat that scoop forever.

I'm grateful you explained it the way you did. On the site it reads "The goal is to add more than you really need" in reference to 1 or 2 scoops. You made it easy, thank you. Now I recognize my first FC test was flawed.

I'm attempting the overnight FC loss test. I haven't seen any algae since the refill other than the dusty green floor on the first day, then again 3 days later at 1/4th what it was before. No signs of it on the walls, unlike before the drain. I was in hopes the overnight test would help me estimate when the culprit will appear.

FC 28.5
CC 0

The CC at 0 caught me off guard. It was so unexpected, I took the FC/CC test twice.

Does it make a difference if you test after the pump had run for a while? I'm guessing it would since it's circulated together. The CYA test yesterday of 180 was taken 6-7 hours after the pump turned off. So, I redid the CYA test as well, diluted with two separate batches multiple times again. Both were exactly the same at 270.

CC is 0 and the pool is clear...so that's 2 out of 3 to graduate algae-free. Maybe the half drain wasn't entirely futile.

 

[Texas Splash]

Does it make a difference if you test after the pump had run for a while?

Good morning! Pump running for a while is a good thing. You actually want the pump on (if it was off previously overnight) and running for at least 30 minutes before taking your sample for FC testing. You want to ensure the water is mixed well.

Everyone above is giving you good advice. Be patient, read their notes and refer to the links they provide. Once you get a handle on the basic, this will all be very easy. Have a nice weekend.

 

[msally]

You actually want the pump on (if it was off previously overnight) and running for at least 30 minutes before taking your sample for FC testing.

Thanks so much! I'm assuming that applies to all of the tests. I'll be sure the pump has been left running beforehand.

The pool didn't pass the overnight FC test. It was 24 this morning, so a loss of -4.5 But regardless if the algae remained or not, we'd need to drain the pool from the high CYA and CH level. In addition, I found the source of the CYA. Someone (it wasn't me, I promise!!) feels very guilty nowadays for using 10-12 pucks per week and maybe more during the summer. Holy wow... I just can't help find this funny. The pool was re-plastered almost 2 years ago and the owner's only advice on the water was "It's simple, always raise the chlorine. That's it." So that's how our high CYA evolved to be today. I know this will be sky high $$ to reverse but this poor person was given terrible advice. Not unlike how we reached sky high calcium from following pool store advice, which also recommends weekly pucks.

If I followed the overnight FC test correctly, and considering the weather for the next few days, I speculate algae sightings around mid-next week.

Thank you to anyone who has gotten this far in the thread. I appreciate all of the helpful knowledge and experiences, every single post made a difference. Especially for a new TFwannabe poolster. Thank you very kindly.

 

[Texas Splash]

At least you now understand why things got out of control and you appear to be 100% in control now. That's what's important. We've ALL been in your position. Once you do the water exchange to lower the CYA and CH, feel free to post a full set of test results. We can then help you adjust any levels and prepare you for the SLAM Process to kill and remove algae once and for all.

 

[msally]

At least you now understand why things got out of control and you appear to be 100% in control now. That's what's important. We've ALL been in your position. Once you do the water exchange to lower the CYA and CH, feel free to post a full set of test results. We can then help you adjust any levels and prepare you for the SLAM Process to kill and remove algae once and for all.

Thanks Texas I'm not in "control" of all aspects of the pool maintenance however, but I try my best.

Would you happen to know what a green powdered pool floor might be? I thought algae only formed on walls?

 

[msally]

Doh, I just read green algae are free floaters and yellow is clingy. I got it now.

 

[Texas Splash]

Would you happen to know what a green powdered pool floor might be?

Actually, algae is the first thing to come to mind. That makes sense since you failed the OCLT and are pending a water exchange to lower CYA and CH. So focus on that first - the water exchange. Once refilled, you can confirm the new CYA and prepare for a SLAM Process. One thing at a time.