Help // Oasis to Green

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caseyrichards said:
Thanks! Glad everything we did last week seemed to do the trick. I’ll do the other test you recommend and report back. As always appreciate the help and support!
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You likely have a good chance that you are still harboring algae with CC at 1. Your actions may have cleared the water, but you still harbor algae. Test your FC right after sunset and test in the morning before sunrise.

In the meantime, I would read this -->SLAM Process

One may be in your future. Your OCLT will help determine...

Better to check it now, or you will go through the cycle again. You kinda, sorta, not really did a slam. Following the SLAM process, you will be sure that you have no more algae.
 
PoolStored said:
You likely have a good chance that you are still harboring algae with CC at 1. Your actions may have cleared the water, but you still harbor algae. Test your FC right after sunset and test in the morning before sunrise.

In the meantime, I would read this -->SLAM Process

One may be in your future. Your OCLT will help determine...

Better to check it now, or you will go through the cycle again. You kinda, sorta, not really did a slam. Following the SLAM process, you will be sure that you have no more algae.
Click to expand...
Here’s the overnight results. Note: I think the first reading I sent you yesterday afternoon may have been off because the free chlorine numbers were actually higher when I tested again last night even though none was added. This morning the FC stayed the same at 12.5 but the CC dropped from 1 to 0.
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Test Results 08-29-2021 @ 09:08 AM
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Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.4
Temperature: 83°F
CSI: 0.36

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Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 09:12 PM
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Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
Temperature: 82°F
CSI: 0.44

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Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 11:41 AM
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Free Chlorine: 8.0
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
pH: 7.5
Total Alkalinity: 250
Calcium Hardness: 350
CYA: 50
Temperature: 85°F
CSI: 0.47
 
caseyrichards said:
Here’s the overnight results. Note: I think the first reading I sent you yesterday afternoon may have been off because the free chlorine numbers were actually higher when I tested again last night even though none was added. This morning the FC stayed the same at 12.5 but the CC dropped from 1 to 0.
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Test Results 08-29-2021 @ 09:08 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.4
Temperature: 83°F
CSI: 0.36

------------------------------------------
Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 09:12 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
Temperature: 82°F
CSI: 0.44

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Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 11:41 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 8.0
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
pH: 7.5
Total Alkalinity: 250
Calcium Hardness: 350
CYA: 50
Temperature: 85°F
CSI: 0.47
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OUTSTANDING! You, sir, have a Trouble Free Pool!!!

George Costanza Reaction GIF
 
So two quick follow up questions now that I’m back on track:

1. Now that I have converted to liquid chlorine do I just dose it based on what PoolMath says each day? Or is there an easy rule of thumb I should remember to use?
2. What do I do with my inline chlorinator and all the pucks I have? Just keep it empty and turned off at all times now and moving forward only use it when I go on vacation? Even then what setting would you recommend I set it to since it’s hard to know exactly how much each turn of the knob is actually adding.
 
caseyrichards said:
So two quick follow up questions now that I’m back on track:

1. Now that I have converted to liquid chlorine do I just dose it based on what PoolMath says each day? Or is there an easy rule of thumb I should remember to use?
2. What do I do with my inline chlorinator and all the pucks I have? Just keep it empty and turned off at all times now and moving forward only use it when I go on vacation? Even then what setting would you recommend I set it to since it’s hard to know exactly how much each turn of the knob is actually adding.
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1) Yep. Nope. Search Stenner pump on the forums. I have a pump and tell it how much to put in each day. Love it.
2) You can keep. Some use it for vacation. Empty and turn off. Number would be hard to know without testing.
 
So here’s the latest. Everything is still holding pretty well. And visually it looks fantastic (the latest attached photo is a world of difference from before!) However CYA and TA still remain high. Is it worth draining some of the water (how much?) and refilling to lower the CYA and/or pouring in muriatic acid (also how much?) to lower the TA in my case or just leave everything as is?

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Test Results 08-29-2021 @ 09:29 PM
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Free Chlorine: 7.0
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.6
Total Alkalinity: 230
Calcium Hardness: 250
CYA: 60
Temperature: 85°F
CSI: 0.39

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Test Results 08-29-2021 @ 09:08 AM
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Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 0.0
pH: 7.4
Temperature: 83°F
CSI: 0.36

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Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 09:12 PM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 12.5
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
Temperature: 82°F
CSI: 0.44

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Test Results 08-28-2021 @ 11:41 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 8.0
Combined Chlorine: 1.0
pH: 7.5
Total Alkalinity: 250
Calcium Hardness: 350
CYA: 50
Temperature: 85°F
CSI: 0.47
 

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TA isn't really an issue in a Fiberglass pool. If you have constant pH rise, then it is worth lowering. Check this out:
Lower Total Alkalinity My advice is wait to see how your pH acts. If it rises quickly and you end up adding acid frequently, then use MA and aeration to lower TA. I have mine at 80 and it doesn't change much. Last thought, if you do lower TA, is borates. Keeps pH really stable, but you will want to lower TA first. Use the forum search function to learn more about borates.

The CYA at 60 is not an issue. No need to drain. Just keep your FC at the recommended levels: FC/CYA Levels. CYA will degrade over time.
 
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Pool looks great! As PoolStored said, just treat the pH as it rises. Don't get hung up on the TA number. It will come down as you treat your pH.
 
PoolStored said:
If you aren't using already, download pool math PoolMath to your smart phone. Configure your pool and it will guide to as to what to add, and when.
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Yep I have PoolMath. That’s how I’ve been posting the results here the last few days. I’ll take your advice (thank you!) however I did want to point out that I have vinyl not fiberglass like you mentioned (or doesn’t matter?)
 
caseyrichards said:
Yep I have PoolMath. That’s how I’ve been posting the results here the last few days. I’ll take your advice (thank you!) however I did want to point out that I have vinyl not fiberglass like you mentioned (or doesn’t matter?)
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TA really is only important in so far as keeping your pH in check (for fiberglass & Vinyl). If your pH is stable then generally whatever your TA is should be fine. People who use pucks to chlorinate have to keep their TA higher as the pucks are quite acidic and the TA helps keep the pH from bottoming out. Those with SWGs or who manually chlorinate typically need to lower the TA further to keep the pH stable.
 
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