Need help programming equipment

[JamesW]

For heater control, the heater sends 24 volts to the remote (low voltage "Dry-contact") relay in the automation box.

When the automation wants the heater to run, it closes the relay and the 24 volts goes back to the heater.

When the heater senses the 24 volts returning, it begins heating.

You can pick up the 24 volts on the outbound (load) side of the relay to activate program 4 if you want a speed specifically for the gas heater.

You would also need to provide a second wire from the heater to provide the other side of the 24 volts.

This would need to be done by a qualified service person to make sure that it is correct.

 

[Janers77]

Thanks @JamesW. With all the reconnecting, could this be something I could mess up and fry something?? Or is this more of a plug and play?

I was thinking of giving this to my pool company but then I am still cleaning up their screw ups. They put additional salt in the pool a few weeks ago (3700) and now my chlorinator is reading high amps and shuts off.

 

[JamesW]

It would probably be best if you can get a qualified service person to go through everything as it gets a bit complicated if you are not familiar with doing this type of thing.

They can program everything, verify the wiring, adjust the pump speeds to the optimal speeds, and then make sure that everything works correctly.

Heater1 cool down - disabled
Heater1 Extend - disabled

I would enable cooldown and extend.

Solar Extend disabled

I would enable extend.

 

[JamesW]

and now my chlorinator is reading high amps and shuts off.

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[Janers77]

ok thank you. I will make those programming changes. When I first moved in, I had a pool company come out and help me with programming. They don't service my area but their equipment guy was really good. I am going to hit them up and see if they can help me apply your instructions. I think over the years, 2-3 pool companies have messed it all up.

For now today I will focus on draining some water out of the pool to decrease the salt level to at least 3500.

Thanks again!

 

[Janers77]

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

-25.32v -7.54
0000 PPM

Press the + and it goes to Chlorinator off- start delay: (count down)

 

[JamesW]

-25.32v -7.54
0000 PPM

With that voltage and amperage, the salinity should be showing a number other than 0000.

When you press the + button, you have to allow the countdown to finish and then the new numbers will display.

If the amperage hits 8.0, it will shut down.

You are very close and if the heater turns on, the amperage will go above 8.0.

You need to lower the salinity enough to keep the amperage below 8.0 even when the heater or solar is on.

You can increase the flow a little bit to reduce the water temperature coming out of the heater to help keep the amperage down.

The next time that the heater or solar are on, check the temperature from the cell diagnostics display.

 

[Janers77]

With that voltage and amperage, the salinity should be showing a number other than 0000.

When you press the + button, you have to allow the countdown to finish and then the new numbers will display.

If the amperage hits 8.0, it will shut down.

You are very close and if the heater turns on, the amperage will go above 8.0.

You need to lower the salinity enough to keep the amperage below 8.0 even when the heater or solar is on.

You can increase the flow a little bit to reduce the water temperature coming out of the heater to help keep the amperage down.

The next time that the heater or solar are on, check the temperature from the cell diagnostics display.

I did it again, waited for the countdown and it settled on 0100. The solar is on and the cell temp sensor is 85 degrees. Do you think I need to clean my cell?

 

[JamesW]

That is a very unusual result.

The salinity is calculated from the volts, amps and water temperature, so the salinity should be in the 3,500 range.

I have never seen that result and I do not know what could cause it.

Is the check system light coming on?

 

[Janers77]

That is a very unusual result.

The salinity is calculated from the volts, amps and water temperature, so the salinity should be in the 3,500 range.

I have never seen that result and I do not know what could cause it.

Is the check system light coming on?

View attachment 364275

Yes, it is Check system: high salt/amps

 

[JamesW]

Yes, it is Check system: high salt/amps

High salt/amps should only be coming on when the amps hit 8.0.

The salinity value is not relevant to the high salt/amps warning, only the amps matter.

Were the amps at 8.0 when the high salt/amps light came on?

I don't know why the instant salinity is reporting at 0000 or 0100 with those other numbers.

What is the average salinity reading reporting?

You can find the "Average" salinity in the default menu.

Go to the Default menu and press the right arrow to see the Average Salinity.

 

[Janers77]

High salt/amps should only be coming on when the amps hit 8.0.

The salinity value is not relevant to the high salt/amps warning, only the amps matter.

Were the amps at 8.0 when the high salt/amps light came on?

I don't know why the instant salinity is reporting at 0000 or 0100 with those other numbers.

What is the average salinity reading reporting?

You can find the "Average" salinity in the default menu.

Go to the Default menu and press the right arrow to see the Average Salinity.

View attachment 364301

I do not know unfortunately what the amps were when the Chlorinator turned off. Prior to that I was dealing with another Check System: Filter off - low flow. I think that was because the Filter at the time was said to be a variable and not a 2 speed. It went away when I changed the filter pump type.

Before the Chlorinator turned off the salt reading was 3700

Default menu says
Saturday 12:08
pool temp 84
air temp 101
Pool Chlorinator 25%
Chlorinator off High Salt/Amps
Heater 1 manual off
Check system High Salt/Amps

 

[JamesW]

Go to the diagnostic menu and check the readings.
Press the + button and note the new readings.
Press the + button again and note the new readings and then go directly to the Default menu and check the Average Salinity.

 

[JamesW]

Before the Chlorinator turned off the salt reading was 3700

Was that from the diagnostics menu or the Default menu?

In the Diagnostics menu, the salinity is the Instant Salinity.

In the Default menu, the salinity is the Average Salinity.

 

[Janers77]

Was that from the diagnostics menu or the Default menu?

In the Diagnostics menu, the salinity is the Instant Salinity.

In the Default menu, the salinity is the Average Salinity.

3700 was from the default menu. BUT I think the problem is that the instant salt is disabled. Going to change that now

 

[JamesW]

BUT I think the problem is that the instant salt is disabled.

I don't think that you can disable the Instant salinity reading?

 

[Janers77]

Was that from the diagnostics menu or the Default menu?

In the Diagnostics menu, the salinity is the Instant Salinity.

In the Default menu, the salinity is the Average Salinity.

Ok things are looking up. I just checked the default reading again and this is what it is. I did drain an inch of water from the pool and refilled this morning. 3500 is still a wee bit high. But now the system is saying Very low salt. I give up.

 

[Janers77]

I don't think that you can disable the Instant salinity reading?

yes you are right it was saying that cause of the high salt amps that turned off the Chlorinator.

 

[JamesW]

OK, that is the Diagnostic menu.

I don't know why it was giving the 0000 and the 0100 readings earlier. Very strange.

The key is to keep the amps below 8.0, which is especially difficult as the water gets warmer.

 

[Janers77]

OK, that is the Diagnostic menu.

I don't know why it was giving the 0000 and the 0100 readings earlier. Very strange.

The key is to keep the amps below 8.0, which is especially difficult as the water gets warmer.

View attachment 364339

I wonder if there is something wrong with my cell. It is holding at 3500 now. Instant salt is 3500 PPM but the salt reading in Default is 2700 and check system is low salt. Default is an average right? I did turn down the solar to 83.