How to fix wrong salt level for a Hayward Cell (half fix)

[factoryfan]

I have a T-9 cell and after calibration the salt level reading is still showing way lower than the actual salt level in the pool. Only after changing the cell type in the menu from T-9 to T-5 the salt level goes up from 2000 to 3000 and the cell works again. In the menu > cell type (t-9) > move the switch to super chlorinate and back until it shows 1 type lower (T-5) cell.
This is not ideal because the chlorine output is lower, but not bad for the cell because the power input for the cell is also lower.

Is there be a better solution to 'repair' the cell?
Since there is no salinity sensor in the cell and the salinity level is measured in relation to conductivity and temperature (red and blue wire). What if the resistor of the temperature sensor is changed how much would this affect the salinity level? and should the resistor value be higher or lower?

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Putting in a smaller cell type does not "repair" the cell. The cell is depleted and on its last legs. You can squeeze a bit more chlorine output from it this way but as you noted it is not generated at its rated output.

Start saving for a new cell. I doubt your cell will last very long.

@JamesW

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[factoryfan]

Welcome to TFP.

Putting in a smaller cell type does not "repair" the cell. The cell is depleted and on its last legs. You can squeeze a bit more chlorine output from it this way but as you noted it is not generated at its rated output.

Start saving for a new cell. I doubt your cell will last very long.

@JamesW

The reason why I am doing this is because i don't think the cell is on it's last legs. There is some kind of grey stuff on the titanium plates and it didn't come off with the muriatic acid. it looks similar to oxidation on aluminum, maybe from pollution or some kind of oil. after the trying to clean it the salt level went up from 1800 to 2000. I almost wish that it was broken so that I can buy a new one. When i figure out how to remove this dirt from the titanium plates i'll take the cell out again but for the moment i am happy that it's working

 

[JamesW]

The gray stuff is ruthenium oxide and it is supposed to be on the plates.

 

[factoryfan]

The gray stuff is ruthenium oxide and it is supposed to be on the plates.

That's interesting to know, thank you. What i don't get is why every cell breaks after 2,5 years, this is the second one.

 

[ajw22]

That's interesting to know, thank you. What i don't get is why every cell breaks after 2,5 years, this is the second one.

How many gallons in your pool?

What % do you run the cell at for how long daily?

 

[factoryfan]

How many gallons in your pool?

What % do you run the cell at for how long daily?

25,000g runs mornings and evenings total 10hours a day at 90%. Runs the whole year straight

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[Newdude]

Runs the whole year straight

So the cell is somewhere very far south of Canada ? Where exactly ? Regional advice can vary greatly.

25,000g runs mornings and evenings total 10hours a day at 90%

What i don't get is why every cell breaks after 2,5 years, this is the second one.

9 hours x 365 days x 2.5 years equals 8212.5 usage hours. Plenty close enough to the 10k expected lifespan in perfect conditions. If it just seems like 2.5 years and is really 2.8, it’s even closer.

 

[Homebrewale]

A T-9 is for pools up to 25,000 gallons. Your pool is 25,000 gallons. You should consider getting a T-15 cell.

 

[factoryfan]

So the cell is somewhere very far south of Canada ? Where exactly ? Regional advice can vary greatly.


9 hours x 365 days x 2.5 years equals 8212.5 usage hours. Plenty close enough to the 10k expected lifespan in perfect conditions. If it just seems like 2.5 years and is really 2.8, it’s even closer.

Saigon Vietnam actually, originally purchased in Canada.
With the 10k lifespan it makes sense why it's not working anymore. tks

 

[factoryfan]

A T-9 is for pools up to 25,000 gallons. Your pool is 25,000 gallons. You should consider getting a T-15 cell.

I will buy the T-15 next week it should safe electricity too with running the 1kW pump a few hours less a day.