Algae won’t go away

[Sara04]

Hello! first post here! This is our third season with our Intex 16 x 48 above ground pool. We have a brand new upgraded sand filter. Opened the pool and it was pretty bad. Was able to get the water semi-clear but the algae just remained at the bottom of the pool floating around. When I took my water in to get tested they said the water levels were perfect. But I still cannot get the algae from the bottom. I noticed too, that my sand filter flow seems to slow down after 20 minutes. PSI reading at 13. Even after back washing and rinsing. I took apart the pump and nothing is blocking it, I opened up the sand filter top and the sand looks fine but I’m not sure if the laterals are cracked. And if the laterals are cracked would that causes the flow to be slow? The sand is only a year old.... should I just change it anyways? I am at a loss and I am now draining my pool (5000 gallons) to clean the bottom and I might as well re level since the pool is about 3 inches off. I guess what I’m looking for is a voice of reason telling me that I am doing the right thing lol. Thank you!

 

[bioguy]

Welcome. You've come to the right place. Lots of good people to help you here.

The pool store says your levels are good, but you know that looking at your pool--they are wrong. So, what you need to do is do your own testing. Here's an article that compares different test kits. I bought the TF-100 and it works well for me. First step is to buy a kit, do your own testing and then post your results here for help.

What is your source of chlorine? If you are using solid "pucks" (like I was when I started), you can get a buildup of cyanuric acid (CYA), also called "stabilizer". This can bind your chlorine, making it not able to kill algae. If your CYA level is too high, adding more pucks won't fix the problem. When this happened to me, draining my pool to get my CYA level down and then adding liquid chlorine made the problem clear up.

13 PSI doesn't seem excessive to me. I don't think your filter is the problem.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Sara, first off let me welcome you to TFP You've come to the right place for pool care. But we do things entirely different from the pool store.

We only add to our pools the basic chemicals they need, knowing what the response will be and how to test for it to confirm. Pool stores over sell extra chemicals that cause you problems if you don't understand what you're adding.

The basis of our methods is OWNER testing. Not pool store testing. Those "free tests" by the pool store always seem to find a problem that costs you a ton of cash.

Our preferred test kits are the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C, which contain the required FAS-DPD test for high level free chlorine.. You can find the TF-100 at www.tftestkits.net or the K-2006C kit at various online sources, but be careful that is *is* the right kit. Sometimes they send the K-2005 kit and try telling folks its the same. It is NOT. (I personally prefer the TF-100, and it is a better buy) The test kit will tell us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

All those are truly necessary to manage pools... Read this--> ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Holler back with any questions

Maddie

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Oh yeah.... as a reference for our methods, check this out-

How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).

How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Sara04]

Thank you I’m going to order that test kit now!

 

[Sara04]

Sara, first off let me welcome you to TFP You've come to the right place for pool care. But we do things entirely different from the pool store.

We only add to our pools the basic chemicals they need, knowing what the response will be and how to test for it to confirm. Pool stores over sell extra chemicals that cause you problems if you don't understand what you're adding.

The basis of our methods is OWNER testing. Not pool store testing. Those "free tests" by the pool store always seem to find a problem that costs you a ton of cash.

Our preferred test kits are the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006C, which contain the required FAS-DPD test for high level free chlorine.. You can find the TF-100 at www.tftestkits.net or the K-2006C kit at various online sources, but be careful that is *is* the right kit. Sometimes they send the K-2005 kit and try telling folks its the same. It is NOT. (I personally prefer the TF-100, and it is a better buy) The test kit will tell us:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

All those are truly necessary to manage pools... Read this--> ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Holler back with any questions

Maddie

Are these test pretty self-explanatory and easy to use?

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I think so. Some folks ask for help and we walk them thru the steps one by one... read the directions and then holler. Which kit did you get?

 

[Sara04]

Was able to order the K2006C. Will be here Monday. I am still going to continue to drain the pool so I can re-level it. Might as well get that out-of-the-way. I guess I will hold off on changing the sand until I refill the pool and use this new test kit. maybe the releveling will help with the flow?

 

[Sara04]

I think so. Some folks ask for help and we walk them thru the steps one by one... read the directions and then holler. Which kit did you get?

The k2006C. The TF kit was sold out on Amazon and It wasn’t adding to “my cart” when I went to the website posted above.

 

[newdude]

Hey Sara and Welcome to posting !!

They folks above have you WELL covered. I’d like to add how simple the testing is, but warn you it’s gonna seem scary at first. The test procedures are listed simply either under the test kit lid, or on a laminated card. If you glance at it as a whole it seems like rocket science. I myself waited a few weeks due to this. When I finally decided to just focus on one test at a time to learn, I kicked my self. *fill vial to 10ml*. Ok..... I can do that, I thought. *add 5 drops of XXX*.

It was *that* easy. Each step is an absolute joke and you have an army of helpful folks here willing to hold your hand until you are your own pro.

 

[Sara04]

Welcome. You've come to the right place. Lots of good people to help you here.

The pool store says your levels are good, but you know that looking at your pool--they are wrong. So, what you need to do is do your own testing. Here's an article that compares different test kits. I bought the TF-100 and it works well for me. First step is to buy a kit, do your own testing and then post your results here for help.

What is your source of chlorine? If you are using solid "pucks" (like I was when I started), you can get a buildup of cyanuric acid (CYA), also called "stabilizer". This can bind your chlorine, making it not able to kill algae. If your CYA level is too high, adding more pucks won't fix the problem. When this happened to me, draining my pool to get my CYA level down and then adding liquid chlorine made the problem clear up.

13 PSI doesn't seem excessive to me. I don't think your filter is the problem.

Yes, I typically use the pucks in the chlorine floater. I just ordered a kit and it will be here Monday so hopefully by then I have the pool re-leveled and filling up. Is HTH a terrible brand to use for the pucks ?

 

[Sara04]

Hey Sara and Welcome to posting !!

They folks above have you WELL covered. I’d like to add how simple the testing is, but warn you it’s gonna seem scary at first. The test procedures are listed simply either under the test kit lid, or on a laminated card. If you glance at it as a whole it seems like rocket science. I myself waited a few weeks due to this. When I finally decided to just focus on one test at a time to learn, I kicked my self. *fill vial to 10ml*. Ok..... I can do that, I thought. *add 5 drops of XXX*.

It was *that* easy. Each step is an absolute joke and you have an army of helpful folks here willing to hold your hand until you are your own pro.

well I’m so glad you were able to figure it out yourself! Reading that makes me think I can do the same LOL One step at a time haha I ordered my kit and will be here Monday

 

[Sara04]

So do y’all think I should just wait on replacing the sand (only a yr old) until I refill and retest with the new kit? It could be one less step that I don’t need to do but I’m just not sure

 

[newdude]

Reading that makes me think I can do the same LOL

When you see the instructions you’ll LOL now. Trust me. But get right on it one easy step at a time.

most tests have a couple parts. Choose the TA test for example. Get the parts needed, Add X drops of this one, then Y drops of that one. Count Z drops. Easy peasy. Take a step back and look at the whole page....... BOOM. Rocket science.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Oh sorry! I meant to comment on that but got sidetracked. Dont change the sand.... sand almost never needs changing. It benefits from a deep cleaning at times though.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

Maddie

 

[superuser]

Testing is very easy. Seems more complex than it really is, one or two times and you'll be quite fast and comfortable with the process. The Taylor kit makes it super simple, everything is color coded and the instructions are right there on the lid.

 

[newdude]

So do y’all think I should just wait on replacing the sand (only a yr old) until I refill and retest with the new kit

Sand is as old as time itself. It only ‘goes bad’ of the pool store had you add flocculent or other magical clarifiers to bind up whatever was in the water. It will bind up the sand in the filter too when the filter sucks it all up.

 

[mknauss]

So do y’all think I should just wait on replacing the sand (only a yr old)

If you like video instruction. K-2006 Completeâ„¢ Kit with FAS-DPD - YouTube

The only reason to change sand is if you have used Floc or other damaging pool store potions that have gummed it up.

Sand is a million years old. You will not damage it in a sand filter.

 

[Flying Tivo]

If you can get the speedstir from taylor its the best thing since sliced bread.

 

[newdude]

If you can get the speedstir from taylor its the best thing since sliced bread

He’s lying. It’s BETTER than that. It’s the best thing since *Betty White*.

(1922 vs 1928).