Question About Switching to a SWG Pump

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Mendy48

Mendy48

Bronze Supporter
Apr 27, 2018
1,008
Midland, MI
I started this thread a little over a year ago and think maybe I can start looking into updating my equipment. I called the pool store to see how much they'll charge me to update my current pump to a SWG, and they quoted me over 2K. The only reason I called for a quote was because my current pipe connected to my multivalve is leaking and I need that fixed. Thus, I thought I'll look into fixing a lot of stuff for my pool.

So I went online to see how much a SWG Cell would cost me as opposed to having a pool company install one for me. I'm looking at prices that range close to 1K. By the time I get the pipes I want and the tools I need to get this installed, I think I'll be at the 2K mark. Thus, wouldn't it just make sense to have someone install one for me? Mmmm. I'm not sure. Plus, I don't even know if I'm looking at the right SWG cell my pool to come up with a conclusion to this.

For my pool dimension, I was planning on getting a 30K SWG cell. I'm just not sure what type to get. I would like to stick with Hayward. I also realized that the lifespan for a SWG cell is 3-5 years (when properly mentioned). With that said, is it really cost effective to keep buying new SWG cells every 3-5 years? I mean, when they say the cell may become ineffective , does that mean that you have to change out the cell?

Also, why do people buy both a SWG and a VS pump together? If I were to just get a SWG, will that defeat its purpose if I don't get the VS pump with it?
 

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A few things to know about SWG systems.
1. Bigger is better, general rule is that the rating is based on running the SWG and your pump 24/7 at 100% output. That’s why we recommend 2x pool volume or more. I’m using a 60k rated one for a 20k pool.
2. All SWG cells are a consumable item. They will only produce a given amount of chlorine before they are depleted. That’s how you pay for your chlorine. My first cell lasted 7 1/2 years and cost $450 to replace, so my chlorine cost for my 20k pool was (450/7.5=60) or $60 per year, in a pool open year round. Of course there was some additional cost for electricity. That’s where a VS pump helps keep that cost down.

Variable Speed Pumps.
1. They can be run at slower speeds with save a lot on electricity cost. Many report running a speed sufficient to support a SWG 24/7 for $20 per month or less.
2. They can be programmed with the most efficient and economical speed for any task. So you can replace a 1hp pump with a 3hp VSP and the power/flow can be adjusted to meet any task. My pump spends much of its time running at 1,000 rpm and burning less electricity than a single 100w light bulb.
 
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Also by oversizing the SWG, if you're going to stick with your single speed pump, you can create the chlorine you need daily in a shorter amount of time (by turning up SWG output higher) so you don't have to run the pump as long. With your pool being in the 17,000 gallon range, I'd look to at least a 35 or 40k rated SWG.
 
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okay! It looks like I can only afford the cell right now. So I'm looking online for a SWG cell and I found here.

Is this what I should be looking for? It's available in three sizes, and I plan on getting the 40,000 gallons. Am I looking at the right spot for this? I want to stick with Hayward because that's all I have for my pool equipment.

Please advise.

UPDATE....
There is absolutely no way that I'm looking at the right thing. I just saw a YouTube video on how to install this and it goes into depth about wiring...I called to see how much or what I needed and they informed me that I would need the entire system and not just the "cell". The entire system cost $2229.99...woot. and that's not with labor. I'm just confused as to what to do here.
 
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If you don't have the Hayward automation, I wouldn't worry about sticking with a Hayward SWG. As far as the wiring, it's generally pretty easy. You just hard wire the control unit to a timer box if you use one. It's just two wires. If your single speed pump is connected to the timer, you simply connect the SWG wires to the same terminals so the SWG turns on and off with the pump.

I clicked on your link above but didn't see anything on how much that 40k unit would cost you. A 45K Circupool RJ45+ would cost you $1299. Don't know how that compares with the one you're looking at. The install is pretty straight forward if you feel comfortable gluing pvc together, and you've definitely got plenty of room on your equipment pad to cut the SWG in.

From your pic, it's a little hard to tell if pipe (10) connects to (11) and so forth. It looks like everything leads to (15) which takes your water back to the pool. Another pic or two from a different angle might help with further advice. I can't quite tell what all that stuff is on pipe (11) down to the chlorinator.
 
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DeanP66 said:
Also by oversizing the SWG, if you're going to stick with your single speed pump, you can create the chlorine you need daily in a shorter amount of time (by turning up SWG output higher) so you don't have to run the pump as long. With your pool being in the 17,000 gallon range, I'd look to at least a 35 or 40k rated SWG.
Click to expand...
I have a single speed pump and a T-Cell-940 which has a 1.74lb output capacity and is 40K gallon rated. I typically run the pool pump at 6-8 hours. Is that enough time to create chlorine for the pool? Or is it a little bit of trial and error where I test occasionally and increase the Chlorine Output and adjust the pump run time?
 
Adjusting a SWG output is different for each pool. Chlorine demand is dependent on many factors (bather load, sun exposure, temperature, other pool chemistry, etc.) Just be aware that run time and percent settings are interchangeable. Eight hours at 50% is equal to four hours at 100% or sixteen hours at 25%. So to increase or decrease you can change run time or output percentage.

Always use liquid chlorine to get the pool to the desired chlorine level, then turn on the chlorinator and adjust as needed to maintain the level.
 
If I did my calculations correctly, that unit will put out 28 oz. of chlorine gas per 24 hours at full throttle, so it should put out around .41 ppm per hour. In your area, you probably need anywhere where 2 to 4 ppm per day of FC generation, so 6 hours of pump run time at 100% output would get you around 2.4 ppm and 8 hours would get you 3.2 ppm. I would say you'll need at least 8 hours to be safe in the heat of summer and maybe a little bit more. You may be able to mitigate that a bit with a CYA at the upper range (80). Just play with it and make your adjustments based on what you find.
 
DeanP66 said:
If you don't have the Hayward automation, I wouldn't worry about sticking with a Hayward SWG. As far as the wiring, it's generally pretty easy. You just hard wire the control unit to a timer box if you use one. It's just two wires. If your single speed pump is connected to the timer, you simply connect the SWG wires to the same terminals so the SWG turns on and off with the pump.

I clicked on your link above but didn't see anything on how much that 40k unit would cost you. A 45K Circupool RJ45+ would cost you $1299. Don't know how that compares with the one you're looking at. The install is pretty straight forward if you feel comfortable gluing pvc together, and you've definitely got plenty of room on your equipment pad to cut the SWG in.

From your pic, it's a little hard to tell if pipe (10) connects to (11) and so forth. It looks like everything leads to (15) which takes your water back to the pool. Another pic or two from a different angle might help with further advice. I can't quite tell what all that stuff is on pipe (11) down to the chlorinator.
Click to expand...
Yes! I have a timer (pic #1). Where exactly do I connect my SWG to? The same terminal? I may have to remove the protective sheet to see it huh? It looks very complicated in there (pic #1).

Yeah! the link doesn't show the cost, but I did call them and it will cost me 2,529.90 for the 40K unit. This does not include labor. Now if a 45K Circupool RJ45+ will cost me $1,299.00 then I'll rather get that. Why is it significantly cheaper? I can't really decipher the difference between the AquaRite® S3 Salt Chlorination System and the 45K Circupool RJ45+. I feel pretty comfortable gluing PVC together, I'm just worried about the wiring.

The next three pics show my equipment a bit closer.

tempImagep1JvGl.jpgtempImageHDiPIC.jpgtempImage3SN35X.jpgtempImageLSkfWl.jpg
 
 
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Hayward w3aqr15 40k rated SWG. price around $1499


The wiring is pretty simple. If you keep your current single speed pump, it connects to the same terminals as the pump. If you change to a VS pump, the pump will move from the switched side of the timer to the feed (hot) side, leaving the SWG on the switched side. If you aren’t comfortable doing the electrical work, an electrician or other experienced person could do it in about 10 minutes.
 
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Mendy48,
So if you remove that single screw that holds the plastic cover on your timer, you can pull it out and see behind it. You should see 4 terminals, 2 that say "line" and 2 that say "load". Your pump, being a single speed pump, should have two wires connected to the load terminals. Variable speed pumps will usually be connected to the line terminals because they are always "hot" and VSP's all have their controls on the pump itself. You set the pump run time with the timer trippers on the timer wheel according to how many hours you need to have it running.

You will simply connect your SWG to the same "load" terminals that your pump is connected to and your SWG and pump will come on and go off at the same time together. Simple as that. Just make sure you turn the circuit breaker off first. Then, put the plastic cover over the terminals and put the screw back in and you're done. Turn on the breaker and you should be good to go in terms of the wiring. Fairly simple.

What is that thing in your plumbing in the middle? Some kind of ozone or mineral system?
 
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chiefwej said:
Hayward w3aqr15 40k rated SWG. price around $1499


The wiring is pretty simple. If you keep your current single speed pump, it connects to the same terminals as the pump. If you change to a VS pump, the pump will move from the switched side of the timer to the feed (hot) side, leaving the SWG on the switched side. If you aren’t comfortable doing the electrical work, an electrician or other experienced person could do it in about 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
I have a single speed pump, I just don't know what terminal this pump connect to on the timer (picture above). I don't think I"m getting a VS pump...maybe later ... years from now. I don't know. I'm just trying to stay within budget by getting the SWG first. Save money in the long run from by Liquid Chlorine all the time.
 
DeanP66 said:
Mendy48,
So if you remove that single screw that holds the plastic cover on your timer, you can pull it out and see behind it. You should see 4 terminals, 2 that say "line" and 2 that say "load". Your pump, being a single speed pump, should have two wires connected to the load terminals. Variable speed pumps will usually be connected to the line terminals because they are always "hot" and VSP's all have their controls on the pump itself. You set the pump run time with the timer trippers on the timer wheel according to how many hours you need to have it running.

You will simply connect your SWG to the same "load" terminals that your pump is connected to and your SWG and pump will come on and go off at the same time together. Simple as that. Just make sure you turn the circuit breaker off first. Then, put the plastic cover over the terminals and put the screw back in and you're done. Turn on the breaker and you should be good to go in terms of the wiring. Fairly simple.

What is that thing in your plumbing in the middle? Some kind of ozone or mineral system?
Click to expand...
I'm going to go do that now and see!!!

UPDATE...
So I removed the single screw that holds the plastic cover on my timer and this is what it looks like (pics below). Which one says "line" and "load"??? I looked and looked but so none. Can you see it?


tempImageP8NG7p.jpgtempImagenWgd8N.jpg
 
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So this is mine, which I'm sure is the same as yours.



From the left, the first screw isn't used. So screws labeled (1) and (3) are the line and screws labeled 2 and 4 are the load. Follow the wires that are connected to the load (screws 2 and 4) and see where they go. They should go to your pump.

It looks like the black wires on the line screws (1) and (3) go out the side hole which probably goes to your circuit breaker. Those are hot wires. Nothing else is currently connected to them. If you had a VSP, you would connect to them and set your programming on the pumps control box, but since you have a single speed pump, you're connected to the load side which is controlled by the red timer switch, and you set your programming that way. You will simply connect the SWG wires (don't believe the order matters, but check your instructions on the SWG) to the load as well and you are done.
 
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DeanP66 said:
Follow the wires that are connected to the load (screws 2 and 4) and see where they go. They should go to your pump.
Click to expand...
I'll defiantly do that today. It looks so scattered in there, but I'll get up the courage and look at 2 and 4 and see where they go.

DeanP66 said:
since you have a single speed pump, you're connected to the load side which is controlled by the red timer switch, and you set your programming that way. You will simply connect the SWG wires (don't believe the order matters, but check your instructions on the SWG) to the load as well and you are done.
Click to expand...
Once I figure out #2 and #4 wiring, all I have to do is ADD the wiring from Hayward w3aqr15 to the timer box?
 
Mendy,

I'm no electrician, but I wanted to poke my head in real quick to help keep you safe.

If you're not comfortable with electrical wiring, it may be best to find an experienced friend/family member or hire a professional. Many here are apprehensive about providing guidance on wiring because of the risks involved. That said, you can at least gain an understanding your components and what needs to be done.

If you plan on poking around in the timer with the cover removed, shut down power at the breaker.

Your timer box should have a model number inside the door. Google the number and find the manual. It looks like an Intermatic T104xx? You'll find the wiring diagram there. This unit accepts voltage of 208-277. If this is the case, terminals 1 and 3 are connected to line (incoming) voltage. The voltage is divided equally between the two wires (legs). These terminals are always hot. Terminals 2 and 4 connect to the device (load) and are only hot when the timer is active. Green wires are ground.

It looks like you have two components connected to the load side. One is the pump and the other is likely your UV system? Trace the conduit that exits on the left side of the box (blk/wht/grn wires) and confirm it goes. If you plan on getting rid of the UV system, you could use this knock out to run the power cable to the SWG controller.

If your system's voltage is 208-277v, make sure your SWG controller is set up to accept like voltage.
 
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I just wanted to chime in to say you are not giving me the warm and fuzzies regarding wiring this up DIY. To avoid any potential bodily injury or property damage, PLEASE get a friend who knows what they are doing or hire an electrician. It is not rocket science, I understand, but there are alot of thing going on inside that box so dont do anything you aren't comfortable with. Not worth hurting yourself, melting something, or frying a 1000 dollar pump or 1300 dollar SWG. I've seen most of these things happen.
 
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