Need help planning for pool equipment

IN SWG pool

Member
Jan 27, 2021
9
Indianapolis, IN
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Greetings. I’m a new member who has been reading your website to learn about swimming pools. What a valuable resource. I have lots of questions, so thanks in advance for any help you are able to give.
We’re in our 60’s, retired, and have never owned a swimming pool. Am planning to install one next spring (2022) for pool aerobic exercising and grandchildren visits. We live on acreage in a rural area surrounded by farm fields & trees. We also have a Labrador dog that will probably get in the water.

Looking at a 12,500 gallon (14’ x 33’) (3’6”x 5’4”) rectangular fiberglass Lantham pool. Pool dealer uses Pentair equipment.
It will be a simple pool with lights, pump, filter, heat pump , salt water generator, & pool cover. Would open pool cover each day (May thru Sept) if weather permits and close each night.
Dealer has recommended Intelliconnect automation at $800. His price for Easy Touch is $5,000 / Intellicenter $8,000. We are supposed to supply the electrician for all pool electrical needs. Due to cost, we can start with Intelliconnect, but would like equipment to be compatible with Easy Touch and/or Intellicenter if we wanted to convert later.
Will Intelliconnect work for my equipment? Pros / cons? Is EasyTouch worth the extra money?
Can buy a 240 or 420 Cartridge Filter (Dealer suggests the 240 and doesn’t use the 320). Which would be best? Read somewhere that bigger is better and you should match filter size to pump size.
Was thinking of the Intelliflow VS Pump 011028 due to good reviews and ability to work with Easy Touch. Would 3HP pump be too big and cause any problems in this size pool? Any advantage to having 2” piping that comes with this pump vs 1.5” piping that comes with Super Flo VS Pump?
Dealer thinks 110 heat pump would be enough for our pool. I did the online calculation (pool surface area x degrees needed x 12) and came up with 160,000 BTU to get water temp to 85 degrees in IN swimming May- Sept. Any problem using the 140, other than higher upfront cost?
Also are the dual function pumps (heat & cool) good or a problem? Cooling feature needed in central IN?
Heat pump / gas pump combo? Since gas pumps have shorter life spans than heat pumps, is it best to separate these two pieces of equipment, if both are desired?
At this time, probably more interested in plain heat pump or heat / cool pump if needed, due to higher cost of running a gas pump.
I was looking at Intelliflow Generator IC40
as that seemed to be what most people are using. Dealer says I need the IC20. Even at lowest % output on the IC40, he feels I’ll have too much salt / chlorine in water. IC20 is supposed to handle 20,000 gallons, so is that size best for my pool? All size models have the same reported switch problem?
Package comes with 2 color LED Microbrite lights. Online, it seemed people were unhappy with these leaking water & needing costly replacement within a short time period. They have a proprietary niche and there was also some thought that these could be discontinued due to new Microbrite lights. Since white is fine with us, was thinking of 3 microbrite warm white lights. Read that 1 bulb has 500 lumen. Thoughts?
Cover is Coverstar auto cover with Eclipse motor, deck undermount.
Like the looks of flagstone stamped concrete. Does it need to be sealed? Would it be too slick?
Is 100 amp breaker in house electric box needed and adequate? Which pieces of equipment should have surge protection?
Dealer puts Zn Anode ball in pool which they say works and is what they do. Read that it should be tied to electrical equipment to do any good?
Do we need anything else?
Can you please share your expertise to help us make good decisions? Don’t want to needlessly spend money, but do want to right size equipment and do it right the first time. If this was your pool and you lived in central IN, what would you do?Greatly appreciate your time and help.
Thanks,
Bonnie
 
Bonnie, Welcome to TFP, you Shure have a list here :)

Lets see if we can hit some points..

3hp VS pump = yes Better pump
minimum IC40 or IC 60 recommended, you can run your pump and SWG less.... with an IC 20 you would almost have to run your pump 24/7
100 amp house breaker?? if so look to have the house breaker upgraded to 200 amp and your pool should have a minimum of 60 amp, most get 100 amp at the pool..
Lights, get RGB lights, it is a better option, But LED lights are not lasting and are very expensive.. get the longest lasting ones.. as far as what ones I am not sure..
420 cartridge filter is better, you should get a year without cleaning it..
I doubt you will need a cooling feature in a heat pump. remember heat pumps are slow and stay on for longer times, might stay on 12 to 16 hours a day to keep your water temp.. Heat pump will require a 60 amp breaker at the pool so you would need 100 amps at the pool... A 400k NG heater will get the temp faster and be way more efficient if you have gas on the property..

Hope this helps some :)
 
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@kimkats, is a big dog in a fiberglass pool OK? I know a vinyl pool is a problem...

Hi Bonnie, welcome to TFP. Boy, you got some questions, but kudos to you for finding us and asking them. The more you know the better off you'll be! Casey stole all the questions I could answer, and all the answers I would have given, too! I'll get even with him later. :rant:

Consider only an IntelliFlo pump. It's the only one that works well with the EasyTouch or IntelliCenter controllers.

That's all I got for your list.

Some things to think about you didn't ask:

You don't need a drain in a pool. That's old school. Have him add a second skimmer instead, one at each end. You'll get better circulation, better surface cleaning, no matter which way the wind is blowing, and your pool will be safer and better looking without drains.

Have him install an auto-leveling system. I like my PoolMiser. Pentair makes a similar model. An auto-leveler is an auto-filler and overflow control system in one. You'll never have to think about your water level again, no matter how hot it is, or how much it rains.

Start researching pool cleaners. Pressure-side cleaners are old-school, and any that require a booster pump are a no-go. I like my suction-side Rebel cleaner. Others here like their robot cleaners. They all have pros and cons, but some need special plumbing, so you have to have an idea of what you'll want while they plumb the pool.

Be sure your pool lights go into a universal housing, so that you can later switch types or brands without being locked into a proprietary system (which will translate to limited and expensive replacement parts). Be sure your pool lights point away from your house and your primary seating area you'll be using at night. You don't want lights pointing at your eyeballs.

Have them install a nice light over the pool equipment pad. Pool equipment only goes haywire in the middle of the night! (Murphy's Law!)

Plan ahead for underground runs. Depending on your decking, you won't be able to add them later. Extra pipes and conduits to handle landscape lighting, drip irrigation or sprinkler systems, audio or video systems, gas for BBQ or space heaters, extra power outlets around the pool, extra hose bibs around the pool, even ethernet cabling for extending wifi or adding a pool cam. Just running empty PVC pipe and conduit can go a long way to future expansion needs that you can't think of just now.

More later as it comes to me...

Congrat's on the new pool!! It's all stress-stress right now, but it'll be worth it!
 
A fiberglass pool + dog is a go! NO problems caused by the nails to the pool. Now the nails on people as the dog swims up to them is another story. If you do not already "drimel" his nails I would start training him to allow it. I use the sandpaper barrel on my dog and it gets the nails MUCH smoother than just clipping them. I can/will help you with the training steps if needed.

I would love to see a pic of the area this pool is going and bonus points if it has the doggy in it LOL

Kim:kim:
 
Bonnie, as other have mentioned, its great you have your list of questions, especially so early in the process. You will be able to read through all the build threads here an pick up a lot of information while you wait "patiently" for your turn in the build schedule. That was me last year. A couple things from a fiberglass, Latham pool owner here. This may be as long as your first post, but I'll try to be concise.

Dealer has recommended Intelliconnect automation at $800. His price for Easy Touch is $5,000 / Intellicenter $8,000.
The Intelliconnect is the most basic automation system you can get from Pentair, and yes, it will work, but if you have already started thinking about other, more robust options, the Intellicenter would be the best one. But $8,000?!?! That is just insane. That is almost a "We don't want to do it, but we will if we can get this price". Take a look at this link, this is the all in one system you would want. Pentair IntelliCenter Control System, SWCG transformer, app access built in, and comes with the IC40. The price from this distributor is about $2,200. A reputable PB would mark this up some amount, after all, they do have to install it, configure it, and warranty it, but not four times!?!? Talk to your potential PB, show him the link, and see if there is something you can work out. You could go with the Intelliconnect now, then upgrade later, but if you can get a reasonable price now, do it now.
Pentair IntelliCenter 5PIC40 Kit - Pool only with Load Center and IC40 (polytecpools.com)

Get the biggest cartridge filter you can now, it will be the easiest to maintain. A 420 is not too big for your pool and will require a lot less cleaning.

The Intelliflo is the best pump overall IMHO, but to pair it with the Intellicenter would be a home run.

Any problem using the 140, other than higher upfront cost?
No problem at all, its actually a really good idea. The small cost from the IC20 to the IC40 seems like a no brainer to me. My PB was going to put in an IC20 for my pool, which "technically" would have been fine. 11,000 pool x 2 = 22,000, so yea, it would be ok. The IC40 for sure is way bigger than I need, and it for sure took some time to tweak. I overshot the settings early on and ended up having to shut the cell down for a while to let the chlorine drift down. After that, I got it dialed in. With the capacity of the cell, and running it at such low settings, that cell will last so much longer, and the very small upgrade cost will be made up for in no time.

A 400k NG heater will get the temp faster and be way more efficient if you have gas on the property
He is spot on here. Why even consider a heat pump in Indiana? A NG heater would seem to be the best addition to the pool. You will be able to heat the water quickly, and with an auto cover, keep the heat in. We last swam on November 11th here near Chicago. A 70 degree day, and we kept the heater running and the cover kept all that warm water nice.

Also, wouldnt think you would need a chiller here in the midwest. Maybe we get a big heat wave and there may be a day or two where it would be nice, but I'd rather spend the money on a nice big NG heater. It is usually much colder and you want a heater than the other way around.

Cover is Coverstar auto cover with Eclipse motor, deck undermount
I do love my auto cover! I do like having to be able to heat the pool and keep all that warm water ready for me when I need it. A couple points about the cover, and the pool, and the automation.

Check with your potential pool builder and ask what they plan on doing where the cover meets the shell. With Latham pools, and a Coverstar cover, depending on the type of lid and setup, there is a weird spot where the shell and concrete collar are exposed, and it really does not look great. The shell needs to have a concrete shell around it, and the Coverstar cover is set up a certain way, and when the cover is retracted, you can see the top of the shell, and the concrete collar. Looks very bad to me, and something my builder is going to address in the spring. We are having tiles put on this, and Latham is actually working on a proposal that recommends what is needed there to make it a finished look. Right now, there is no guidance so you need to make sure. Coverstar and Latham are owned by the same company, so in order to get the full warranty from both of them, you need to install both of them. Latham wont warranty the shell if you install a different brand cover, though in my opinion, would look better.

I highlighted the area I'm talking about here in red....

Cover finish.jpg

Here is what it looks like with the cover, not all the way retracted. It still looks odd to me, but it "hides" the top of the shell lip and the concrete cover
IMG_5241.jpg

One more thing to consider, since you will be getting a Coverstar cover, and "hopefully" the Intellicenter. There is an upgrade kit for the cover, that will tie the cover into the Intellicenter. You will not be able to open or close the cover with the Intellicenter, but it will know when the cover is open or closed. I am getting this in the spring and when connected, my slide wont be able to run if the cover is closed, and the cover wont close it the slide is running. Without the water features in your pool, the benefit will be in the SWCG control. With a larger cell, and lets say a closed cover, the automation will tell the cell to not produce chlorine while closed. Since you wont be burning off chlorine with a closed cover, this kind of automation integration may be beneficial. If I recall correctly, this upgrade probably costs about $1,000 in parts. There is a great thread on that around here if you want to hear more about that.

You don't need a drain in a pool. That's old school. Have him add a second skimmer instead, one at each end. You'll get better circulation, better surface cleaning, no matter which way the wind is blowing, and your pool will be safer and better looking without drains.
More great advice. Some fiberglass pool companies like San Juan are actually recommending to not install main drains anymore. Latham hasn't gone that far yet, but something to discuss with the builder. For Fiberglass pools, the main drains, if installed, are usually not installed on the floor, they are installed on the back wall of the deep end. Take a look at the picture above, you will see two main drains on that back wall. I didn't really think about that when I was going through the build, and maybe would have pushed them to not install them, but on the back wall they really don't get in the way.

For skimmers, two would be a good idea, really wish I would have pushed for that. For Latham shells, there are four places where they can go, with the notches formed right into the fiberglass. Decide where you want them to be before the builder orders the shell. Normally, Latham cuts the skimmers out at the factory, so if you are not specific, they will decide for you. Find out where the wind blows towards and get them put there. Wind will help as much with skimming as the returns do.

I was thinking of substituting the Microbrites for the above reasons mentioned.

As mknauss said.....
Good idea

I'd take it a step further and go with three of them. I have three of them in my 30' long pool and they are just about the right amount of light and color. My PB firs pushed back, saying two were enough. Maybe they were, but for the small cost of a Microbite, I'm glad I went with three.
IMG_5190.jpg


IMG_5197.jpg

I think that's all I got for now, probably a lot to take in, but the good news is you have a lot of time to process this.
 
Nice looking pool and lights Dirk. What is your coping material? Do you think the concrete lid they offer to go over the aluminum cover lid would hide the exposed area you were talking about?

The markup on the automation is huge. I had looked up the online systems & found them to be reasonably priced. I asked PB why so much & he said it was for labor as they have to run the wires to the box. Since we have to hire the electrician, is a total automation system install something an electrician could do? Would that nullify the Pentair warranty? Upset the PB?

We already had a local pool builder say he didn’t want to build our pool. I think because I ask questions and wanted a SWG which is different than their standard Frog system pool. Guess with Covid they have enough business to just churn out their normal prepackaged pool.

Great help from everyone with my questions as well as great advice on things I didn’t even know to ask for. Keep it coming. Greatly appreciate it.
 

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The markup on the automation is huge. I had looked up the online systems & found them to be reasonably priced. I asked PB why so much & he said it was for labor as they have to run the wires to the box. Since we have to hire the electrician, is a total automation system install something an electrician could do? Would that nullify the Pentair warranty? Upset the PB?
Crazy markup. Pentair's warranty is a bit cryptic. But they make it sound like several different types of contractors can install their systems without compromising the warranty. But here's the rub: if you buy all their gear at the same time, on the same invoice, and three of the items are qualifying, then they upgrade the warranty of everything you purchase to three years. That may not be worth a 400% markup for automation, but I'm just pointing it out so you can read the warranty yourself and strategize accordingly.

And yes, your PB sounds like the kind of guy that would get offended. His markup is not reasonable, IMO, but these guys know you are a "captive audience." I think they lowball the pool build price to get the business and make up for it with upgrade markups.

If he's a super nice guy, he would buy all the gear for you, do the plumbing, and then let you manage the installation of the automation (charging you a much more reasonable price for the controller). If he balks, then you have your answer about his business practices. To be fair, it's not unreasonable for him to resist having to work with a second contractor, because it introduces some potential liability issues: who warrants what, what if something goes wrong, etc. You're in a tough spot. You could forgo the automation altogether, have the PB install everything else (I think you'd still qualify for the three-year upgrade), and then after the build hire someone else to install the controller at a more reasonable cost. You can run the pool without the IntelliConnect for a while. You can't run the SWG for the first month anyway and I think you can program the pump with a schedule without a controller (it's built in). You could certainly shop around now, on the down-low, and see what price options are available, then decide when you have a better set of numbers to contemplate.

We already had a local pool builder say he didn’t want to build our pool. I think because I ask questions and wanted a SWG which is different than their standard Frog system pool. Guess with Covid they have enough business to just churn out their normal prepackaged pool.
I think that's exactly what's happening in the industry these days. These guys have so much work that they are picking and choosing their projects based on ease and profit. And raising their prices to boot. It's not an ideal time for building a pool, as it's a seller's market...
 
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Since we have to hire the electrician, is a total automation system install something an electrician could do?
That is the trade that would install the automation.
You will have a warranty. And I would suggest you enter the warranty information from all the equipment, regardless whom you bought it through, so you get the 3 year warranty. You will need an invoice from a 'professional' showing install.
 
Nice looking pool and lights Dirk.
Dirk does have a nice pool and lights, I've seen pictures of it

That's @gingrbredman's pool you're asking about...
Ah yes, thanks Dirk, yes, that is my pool!

What is your coping material? Do you think the concrete lid they offer to go over the aluminum cover lid would hide the exposed area you were talking about?
That coping is a bullnose Unilock paver, specifically made for pool coping.

Not sure what you mean by concrete lid, are you supposed to get the poured lid? I have the "Flush Aluminum Lid".

Below is a picture of mine under construction. The Coverstar gets put in behind the concrete collar. You can see the lip of the shell, and the concrete. Even when the cover goes in place, and is all the way in the canister, you can see part of this unfinished mess. You can't put coping on there, its too tall and the cover would be blocked. Latham is working on an installation guide for its dealers to specify what to do in this section to make it look like a finished pool. I will have tile installed there, the ones that Latham uses when they put tiles on the fiberglass so it will match my blue gelcoat. But, if you do not have this conversation with the pool builder before hand, it could stay like this.

Coverstar Cover.jpg

For another perspective, this is what an APC cover looks like installed with a fiberglass pool. This is my neighbors pool, a Thursday Pool and APC cover. They have a trim piece that goes there. Latham doesn't have anything like that and since Latham really makes you go with Coverstar, you have to get creative, or work with a pool builder who is.

apc cover.jpg

I asked PB why so much & he said it was for labor as they have to run the wires to the box.
That is an absolute garbage response from this builder. The forum won't let me be more explicit that that, but I'd like to.
The Intelliconnect system is $300 retail. $800 is probably not terrible for a fully warrantied, installed system price. You need to run all the same wires to this, as a matter of fact, its more difficult because the load center is not built in, neither is the salt control. The lights get run to the pad from the pool, no matter what system you get, what more wires need to be run? This is a typical "I don't want to do it" price.

Guess with Covid they have enough business to just churn out their normal prepackaged pool.
You are correct, the builder who didn't want to build your pool, and perhaps this one has the same idea.

And just when I was mentioning how smart Dirk was, I do need to clarify this statement...
You can't run the SWG for the first month anyway
While he is correct in this statement for plaster pools, this is not the case for fiberglass pools. You can put the salt in right after the water, make sure its dissolved, and fire that cell up.
But, that really is a secondary point considering how much of a pain that would all be considering the PB is just being so rigid.

I'll go back to Dirk being smart and agree very much with the following statements...
And yes, your PB sounds like the kind of guy that would get offended.
His markup is not reasonable, IMO, but these guys know you are a "captive audience." I think they lowball the pool build price to get the business and make up for it with upgrade markups.
I think that's exactly what's happening in the industry these days. These guys have so much work that they are picking and choosing their projects based on ease and profit. And raising their prices to boot. It's not an ideal time for building a pool, as it's a seller's market...

I'll follow up on that by saying the pool builder you are working with would give me pause.
Yep, its a sellers market out there. But for a builder to be so rigid, not allow you to ask questions, or work with you, is someone in general I would not want to do business with. What happens along the way when a different change may be needed? Is that another $5k or just a hard no? Or what happens if there are issues you need to address? Will they work with you on them or would that be another hard no?

The reality is there is such a demand for pools, and builders are so busy, they may be perfectly happy with a customer who will pay their quoted price, with their garbage systems (Frog for example) and move on to the next pool. Why work with someone who will ask questions or ask for different things when I have potential customers lined up who will not do this. Sounds to me like your proposed builder is not interested in changing their standard package, and you need to decide if you are ok with that and working with someone who isn't listening to your needs.

There are builders out there that will work with you, and get you the perfect pool, but they also may be busy now and you will have to wait until 2022, which you are already doing now!

As you can tell, I like talking about fiberglass pool installs. They are not the majority here, so when someone asks about them, I do like to let people know the things that worked and didn't. Things I learned along the way and things I'd do differently.

But fiberglass, gunnite, vinyl, there are a lot of people here who also went through some of the things you are experiencing. A lot of help along the way for sure.
 
Thanks for the pictures. They were a big help to see what you are saying. Coverstar does need to find a cosmetic solution. Hope the tile fixes it for you.

Is a Thursday pool as good as a Latham pool? If yes, there are some Thursday pool builders I could look at.

Is APC cover as good as the Coverstar?
Do they have a titanium motor option?

The above automated system prices would be easier to accept if that was the installed ready to use price. It’s not. We are supposed to provide & pay for the pool electrician. May have to leave automation off the install & pay an electrician to come back later & hook up one I buy from internet. Would prefer to do it right the first time though. Still shopping for pool builders, but limited options since I want fiberglass.

Thanks again
 
Is a Thursday pool as good as a Latham pool? If yes, there are some Thursday pool builders I could look at.

I would say in my opinion they are as good. Latham bought up a bunch of smaller manufacturers over the years to include in their offerings. Blue Hawaiian, Viking, Trilogy, and some others. Thursday Pools is a different company, and the other brand people have liked I've seen is Leisure Pools. Some may have more passionate opinions on the "Best" fiberglass manufacturer, but if you have a builder near you that installs Thursday or Leisure, I'd take a look at them as well.

Is APC cover as good as the Coverstar?
This can also be subjective. I've seen my neighbors APC cover, and my Coverstar, and can't tell a difference in materials, functionality, or build. I would have chosen the APC just based on the finished look in the end, but with a Latham pool, your builder is most likely going to go with Coverstar. Latham owns Coverstar and they almost make you do it for the combined warranties.

My PB also builds vinyl pools and when he uses covers for those pools, he choses the APC. For me, despite my hesitations mentioned, I am glad I went with the Coverstar because it will tie into the Intellicenter, and the APC will not from my understanding. The finished look will be achieved for mine, it just takes a bit more planning and creativity with the Coverstar. I would say if you went with a Thursday Pool, and had an APC cover and had no interest in attaching this into automation, you'd probably be just as happy. Not sure on APCs motor offerings. Didn't look that deep.

Still shopping for pool builders, but limited options since I want fiberglass.

That is a good plan. It is important to get more than one builder out anyway to see what the actual pricing looks like in your area. One builder may be crazy high, the other low, or some in the middle. You may also find one that's a bit higher, but you like the builder a lot. Thursday Pools, Latham, and Leisure all have "authorized installers" you should be able to find in your area and see if they will come out.
Fiberglass pool complimentary design consultation - Leisure Pools USA
Get an Estimate on a Thursday Pools Fiberglass Pool
Speak to a Dealer - Latham Pools
 
While he is correct in this statement for plaster pools, this is not the case for fiberglass pools. You can put the salt in right after the water, make sure its dissolved, and fire that cell up.
Derr. Yes, of course, gingrbredman is right. One month is for plaster, doesn't apply to fiberglass.

gingrbredman reminded me of another issue with the controller. A Pentair SWG requires a power supply, a big honkin' power supply. With the IntelliConnect that will be in a big, separate box mounted to your wall. You'll also need a circuit breaker box mounted to the wall. And then the IntelliConnect. EasyTouch and IntelliCenter controllers come as an even bigger box, but the circuit breakers AND the SWG power supply are all built in! So you have one, nice looking box instead of three different boxes (different shapes and colors to boot). To some this won't matter a lick, to others, like me, it would. It bugs me every time I walk by my pad.

It could be that by "run the wires to the box" this is what the PB was bemmoaning. Someone would have to run all the 240V and 120V pool electrical into the EasyTouch or IntelliCenter box. Which is true, but someone would have to run all those same wires into a separate circuit breaker box anyway if you get the IntelliConnect. So we're back to PB BS. And just to point out how much BS: an IntelliCenter and an EasyTouch require pretty much the same exact wiring. But an IC is only a few hundred dollars more than an ET, so his price difference of $3000 between the two is a total sham.
 
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Thanks again. All your help is immensely helpful.
Jimmy the Greek gave me a good laugh (which was good too).
Thank you all so much!! Will keep shopping and asking questions (hopefully I’ll find a good PB who appreciates a customer who does their research & has an idea of what they want) 😊. If and when we get this pool built, I’ll send you a picture of our Labrador and/or grandkids in it.
 
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Intellicenter question:

If I was going to buy the Intellicenter online and have my electrician install it, is the 521905 what I would need?

Proposed pool equipment:
Intelliflow VS pump
420 Cartridge Filter
400K NG MasterTemp heater
3 Microbrite lights warm white
Intellilevel Water Level
Auto Cover
CMP Pool Defender Compact
Sacrificial Zn anode
IC40 Salt Generator
(included in above pkg)
Surge protectors for major equipment

Do I need any valve actuators?

Also, if you see any above equipment that doesn’t look like what I need, please say so.

Which 400K heater?
460736, 460775, 460805

An interesting comment from Pentair on an Intelliconnect YouTube was that some states will push people to buy a heat pump instead of a gas heater. Am I safe buying a gas heater in IN or should I go back to looking at heat pumps?

If I wanted to tell the Salt cell not to run when the cover is closed, what parts would I need?

Thanks again for your time in answering the above.
 
I'm Hayward so not much help on pentair but the list is good. The newer XF pump is replacing the 028 pump amd same money I'd go that route. Also not a fan of mastertemp. Raypak makes the best heater amd the cupro nickel models is all I install nowadays. I did solar on my personal pool after being a non believer amd it's great wish I'd done it sooner. Free heat I'm 10 degrees warmer during swim season
 

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