1st Pool Build | Sugar Land - Skimmer Repairs Done - Hardscape Finished

[stack24]

Hi everyone. I have been lurking on here for a long time and reading and trying to absorb as much as I can. I have narrowed down my search to 3 builders that all proposed fairly similar designs in terms of shape and I wanted to share them with you here to see what you guys thought, what you would change or move around to make this a better build. The wife and I are more modern so wanted something geometric that fit our house.

EDIT: Changed up Thread to reflect an actual bid with equipment.

UPDATE - We got out first full bid from 1 of the 2 guys we are considering. Here is the build out and design.

UPDATE 2/9/21 - One of the last builders we had out has come up with a design we like the best. I have attached it below. We are meeting them tomorrow to discuss pricing etc and see what their bid is. I plan on sending the design to the other builders we met with and seeing what their bid would be for the same type of design. We did our own tweaks like adding contrasting colors on part of it.

UPDATE 2/11/21 - We had a face to face meeting with the PB and Designer where we got to work real time with him on changes and ideas. Towards the end the wife asked if she could see the pool symmetrical becuase she just loves simple lines. He quickly whipped up a draft and she fell in love with it more, so now we are on version number 3 of the design. I also have a list of items being used. I know I know, SWG. I'm gonna have to try and figure that out.

Some key things

1. The pool is now essentially 12' X 35 Feet (Interior Measurements)
2. Tanning ledge is shortened since there is no spa behind it now to 6' wide and the spa remains 4.5' wide so that gives us essentially 24.5 feet of swimming area in the middle.
3. Currently we have the depth going from 3.5 - 5.5. I'm wondering from the experts here to leave it like that, or go something like 3.5-5.5-3.5 so it's easier for both sides to hang out?
4. The wife got what she ultimately wanted a simple rectangular pool, water feature aligned directly with the patio as well as the glass doors and windows in our house that open out and can show everything.
5. Since we have to use 400 SQFT of Decking with spray deck he put in a little seating area up top as well near the spa. Not 100% on that one but I think it's a nice addition to just a little green area back there.
6. Currently the 3 walls on the back are 18", 12", and 6" I am thinking about raising each of them 6" to give it a little more effect. So making the feature wall with sheer descents to 24"

Here is the equipment list currently in their bid.

Equipment - ALL PENTAIR

Pentair Easy Touch 8 w/Logic - $2,410 (Asked him about Intellicenter and he said that would be about $300 more than this, if anyone can chime in on normal pricing)
Valve Actuators to have water feature work separately - $230
Pentair Cartridge Filter (420) - Included
Cleaner Pump (3/4 HP) #LA-01N - Included
PENTAIR Racer Cleaner - Included
Intelliflo VSF #011056 - $652
Whisperflo 3/4 Booster for sheer descents - 1,105
3X 18" Sheer - $1105
2X Bubblers - $300
In-Line Chlorinator - Included
Auto Fill System - $322
Pentair Racer Cleaner - Included
MicroBrite Color LED Lights - 3 Total (2 in pool, & 1 in spa) - $1649
Pentair Heating System - Included in the Spa Pricing


UPDATE 2/27/21

CONTRACT SIGNED!

So after some back and forth about pricing and adjusting a few minor things we have finally signed the contract to build our pool. Thank you for everyone for all the help. Below is the latest design after a few minor changes. We still will be making some minor adjustments because we won't start our dig until later in April due to scheduling for GUNITE etc. Below is the pretty much final design of of the pool and some items that we are still ironing out. We dropped the side walls to 6" and the feature wall stayed 1" to give it a uniformed look while the Spa stays at 12" raised.

1. Still haven't decided if we want to keep that seating area and deck near the spa or just leave it clean and some extra grass area for the kids and move the decking allocation to the side of the house to use for storage and deck boxes
2. I spoke to to them about leaving either extra pipe for a later install of SWG and possibly having them plumb everything for a SWG pool and I will pay for the Intellicenter 8 with SWG kit and leave everything chlorine for now to not worry about their waiver for their warranty and then just installed the SWG set after the one year. This way I don't have to get the SWG and power supply later.
3. We don't know what we are going to do with the color of the plaster yet, he just put in a placeholder for the included level, or if we want to actually pay extra for a higher level of color which will be $800.

 

[TexasRain]

Nice designs! I have my Shelf/ledge centered on my patio with the steps integrated. But I don't have a spa to fit in the design. I can't wait to be able to walk right out my door and into the shelf! Also the pool view is centered on my big windows in my living room!

Here is my build so far. No pebble or water in there yet. But there are a lot of pictures throughout the 13 pages

 

[Nikilyn]

Don't base your pool depth in your kids being little. They will grow up faster than you know. They will swim all over the pool and not care how deep it is. They will also want to jump in the deep end and will probably want it deep. They like seeing how deep they can go. At least mine did and that's what I remember doing too. Most of ours are grown and when we were talking about how we were doing this pool they wanted it deep. My 26 yo son said he wishes out could be a play pool to play volleyball and be deep to jump but if he had to pick one it would be deep. The others agreed.
As for water splashing on the stucco, it's going to splash on the stucco when it rains no matter what you have. We have rocks all around our house, like most Arizona houses do, and dirt splashes up on the house even with the rocks. I would think having the deck there would actually keep the house cleaner. JMO though.

 

[stack24]

Nice designs! I have my Shelf/ledge centered on my patio with the steps integrated. But I don't have a spa to fit in the design. I can't wait to be able to walk right out my door and into the shelf! Also the pool view is centered on my big windows in my living room!

Here is my build so far. No pebble or water in there yet. But there are a lot of pictures throughout the 13 pages

Thank you! I definitely will definitely check it out and follow along. That's one of my favorite things about this board are the under construction because you can learn a lot.

Don't base your pool depth in your kids being little. They will grow up faster than you know. They will swim all over the pool and not care how deep it is. They will also want to jump in the deep end and will probably want it deep. They like seeing how deep they can go. At least mine did and that's what I remember doing too. Most of ours are grown and when we were talking about how we were doing this pool they wanted it deep. My 26 yo son said he wishes out could be a play pool to play volleyball and be deep to jump but if he had to pick one it would be deep. The others agreed.
As for water splashing on the stucco, it's going to splash on the stucco when it rains no matter what you have. We have rocks all around our house, like most Arizona houses do, and dirt splashes up on the house even with the rocks. I would think having the deck there would actually keep the house cleaner. JMO though.

All of that makes total sense. We figure we would probably be in this house another 10 years so the prime years of the kids to enjoy the pool and if we stay longer even better. That makes a lot of sense in terms of the splash. Currently we just grass there so we don't get much splash up since we have full gutters pushing the water to the sides of the house at the moment.

 

[Nikilyn]

I would think that if you don't get much splash on the house with rain then you'll get less with the pool. Water from the pool would be more likely to run in a stream to the house than be splashing.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Do you have gutters on the back of the house? That should help any splash from rain.

I also agree on the depths, 3.5 feet is pretty shallow and I would recommend closer to 4'. Ours goes 3'8" to 6'. The kids gravitate to the 6' area and the adults hang out in the 4-4'6" area.

 

[stack24]

I would think that if you don't get much splash on the house with rain then you'll get less with the pool. Water from the pool would be more likely to run in a stream to the house than be splashing.

I was a bit more concerned with the decking that comes right up against the foundation I guess.

Do you have gutters on the back of the house? That should help any splash from rain.

I also agree on the depths, 3.5 feet is pretty shallow and I would recommend closer to 4'. Ours goes 3'8" to 6'. The kids gravitate to the 6' area and the adults hang out in the 4-4'6" area.

Yes I have gutters all around the house. Thank you for the thoughts on the depth. One of the designs that have been done is 4' to 5'6" But I will discuss moving that to 6 feet on the deep end.

 

[Nikilyn]

I would definitely be concerned about water being by the foundation. We are told by homebuilders to not have grass within 2' of the foundation. They don't even want us to have plants on a drip system but we do. It's why we have rock around the house.

 

[stack24]

EDIT - I added the information about the bid to the original post to clean it up. Thank you for your time.

 

[HermanTX]

This is a great pool design. Really well done on how it fits to the available space.
Deck - you do not want your deck to go up against the stucco wall but it can go up against the foundation if you have proper drainage. Suggest that you include drainage system under the deck. I have a poured concrete, stamped deck and have 3 drains built into it (just on the patio where it meets the foundation) that connect to my main sewage drain. So I can wash down my entire deck under the patio and never worry about water standing. I have another 2 drains under the deck on each side of the pool. Suggest that you really consider a drainage system built into the deck to ensure no standing water especially on the patio that meets up with the house foundation.

Hayward pump, heater and filter are good. Drop the inline chlorinator & UV system. Go with a SWCG and you be much happier down the road.

Remove the Polaris 280 cleaner as well as that requires an extra booster pump. Ensure you have a GFCI socket within reasonable distance of the pool and buy a robot. This will be so much easier.

Depths - min. 3.5ft as you step down into the shallow end. Suggest a min. of 5.5ft in deep end and seriously consider 6ft or 6.5ft. As someone stated earlier - kids love to go deep especially if playing games such as marco polo, catching rings, etc.

Plumbing - great that you have 2 skimmers - ensure they are independently plumbed back to the equipment for better control. So you would have 4 pipes for suction to your main pump - 2 for the 2 skimmers, 1 for pool main drain and 1 for spa main drain.
The PB does not indicate how many returns to spa - need to ensure what that is.
It appears they plan to have a second pump to power the water features. This is good. It should have its own suction to that dedicated pump and ensure valves on each return line to the various water features. This provides you better control or ability to isolate if needed. BTW, my suction line for my waterfall is on the pool side wall and looks like a main drain - just positioned on the wall. This way it does not pick up debris as this circulation path does not go through the filter. EDIT - you may want to confirm with PB the type of water feature as some have very small openings to create the effect. Therefore, the flow may need to go through a filter or a special pump basket to ensure no small debris can enter the water feature.

Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

[stack24]

I would definitely be concerned about water being by the foundation. We are told by homebuilders to not have grass within 2' of the foundation. They don't even want us to have plants on a drip system but we do. It's why we have rock around the house.

Thank you I will definitely take that into consideration when figuring all of this out.

 

[TexasRain]

One thing you might want to look up is a channel drain instead of the regular 2 drains. it looks nicer and is flush. I have a large 20" circle drain that is also flush. Can't remember what it is called at the moment. They fill it in with your plaster so it almost disappears on the bottom of the pool!

edit: mine is like this one, don't know if it is the exact same one.

 

[stack24]

One thing you might want to look up is a channel drain instead of the regular 2 drains. it looks nicer and is flush. I have a large 20" circle drain that is also flush. Can't remember what it is called at the moment. They fill it in with your plaster so it almost disappears on the bottom of the pool!

edit: mine is like this one, don't know if it is the exact same one.

Thank you! Will look into this!

 

[stack24]

Sorry to bump this but had some new info and was curious. From a few other places and people I spoke to they said that the equipment package that this builder is using is pretty basic and Crud, in so many words. The automation system is outdated etc.

The other thing they mentioned is that these spillover spas like that that we were thinking about getting don't really function that great overall when you are using one pump to do the spa and pool since it splits the flow so it's not worth the upgrade. It looks nice but you have to pay to play in a way to get it to work nicely. Since I'm trying to get to a certain budget I don't mind going back to a normal spillover spa for the savings and just tile it top and bottom like a spillover style I guess.

They also said that Hayward LED lights are kind of crappy and not recommended. This PB is the only one out of the ones that I have talked to that use Hayward over Pentair so i'm torn.

I still have 2 more PB's coming to look at everything and give me their design thoughts so I will have more information. This board has been a world of information.

 

[renesme]

I'm no use in commenting about equipment, so I'll let others do that. One thing I have heard about those 360° spillover-type spas is that the narrow channel around the sides and back can be difficult to keep clean and could be a magnet for algae if the circulation in there isn't quite right.

 

[HermanTX]

Sorry to bump this but had some new info and was curious. From a few other places and people I spoke to they said that the equipment package that this builder is using is pretty basic and Crud, in so many words. The automation system is outdated etc.

The other thing they mentioned is that these spillover spas like that that we were thinking about getting don't really function that great overall when you are using one pump to do the spa and pool since it splits the flow so it's not worth the upgrade. It looks nice but you have to pay to play in a way to get it to work nicely. Since I'm trying to get to a certain budget I don't mind going back to a normal spillover spa for the savings and just tile it top and bottom like a spillover style I guess.

They also said that Hayward LED lights are kind of crappy and not recommended. This PB is the only one out of the ones that I have talked to that use Hayward over Pentair so i'm torn.

I still have 2 more PB's coming to look at everything and give me their design thoughts so I will have more information. This board has been a world of information.

Well Hayward equipment is well respected and used by many on this forum with regard to pumps, filter and heaters. With regard to automation, PB's are trying to rid themselves of old stock (read as outdated) so just like Best Buy, they push or put on sale the older models. As being the buyer/owner, you need to ask for specific model numbers and post those on the forum to get feedback - this would be for all equipment, not just the automation items.

I did not pick up on drawing that this is a 360 deg spa spillover. I see it now. There are others on this site that can provide feedback back on the needs to create a working 360 deg. spa spillover. I have noted @ajw22 to review and maybe he has others he knows that can provide guidance as well.

 

[Bvacchiano]

Howdy neighbor! Some things that are no brainers if you ask me: SWG. I’d rather saw my arm off than not have one down here in Sugar Land. When you are lugging liquid chlorine every day from June-November or you are draining water to compensate for high CYA due to using TriChlor pucks you’ll understand why...TRUST ME. You need a good Automation system. No doubt. It’s like having a Blackberry if you don’t. Also I’d HIGHLY recommend a Chiller down here unless you like swimming in nice toasty Bath Tub water from June-November. Id also highly recommend understand what type of plaster you are getting. “Tier 1” may not be what you want.
just curious who’s building your pool. PM me if you don’t mind.
Thx

 

[ajw22]

Sorry to bump this but had some new info and was curious. From a few other places and people I spoke to they said that the equipment package that this builder is using is pretty basic and Crud, in so many words. The automation system is outdated etc.

I prefer Pentair equipment but the Hayward equipment and automation proposed is not crud. The Prologic system is ok. Biggest complaint on the Prologic and OmniLogic systems are the complexity of the User Interface. Hayward has a new Omni PL automation that was released this year that does what the Prologic does with an improved User Interface.

The filter, heater and air blower are fine. The pumps are probably ok but you don't have model numbers. You should get the Hayward TriStar VS pump for the main pump. The feature pump should be a low head water fall pump.

A separate spa jet pump will give you the best spa jet experiences.

I would replace the Rainbow chlorinator with a SWG and change the Prologic to the Aquaplus that bundles the Prologic and AquaRite SWG in one unit. Or the Omni PL SWG bundle.

The other thing they mentioned is that these spillover spas like that that we were thinking about getting don't really function that great overall when you are using one pump to do the spa and pool since it splits the flow so it's not worth the upgrade. It looks nice but you have to pay to play in a way to get it to work nicely. Since I'm trying to get to a certain budget I don't mind going back to a normal spillover spa for the savings and just tile it top and bottom like a spillover style I guess.

That 360 degree spillover spa much be build perfectly for it to function properly. The top surface must be PERECTLY level for it to have the overflow effect. Any variance in the wall height or tile height will have teh water spilling over unevenly. Many builders do not supervise the build during gunite and tiling to get it perfect.

That type of 1X1 small tile walls can become a maintenance problem. Tiles come loose, grout cracks and falls out. You have much more grout lines to maintain then if you use a larger tile. water leakage through the walls of the spa can cause tiles to lossen. As much as it looks good I would never do that style tile on large spa walls. And if you do it then make sure the builder applies a water proofing membrane on the inside of the spa like...

HYDRO BAN®

HYDRO BAN is the perfect combination of load-bearing waterproofing & crack isolation membrane you could want! Get yours today!

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They also said that Hayward LED lights are kind of crappy and not recommended. This PB is the only one out of the ones that I have talked to that use Hayward over Pentair so i'm torn.

All the LED pool lights from the major pool manufacturers seem to have reliability issues. Use nicheless lights that can be replaced at a reasonable cost and don't lock into one light model.

Or go with a basic white incandescent or halogen light where the bulb is replaceable at reasonable cost.

 

[stack24]

This is a great pool design. Really well done on how it fits to the available space.
Deck - you do not want your deck to go up against the stucco wall but it can go up against the foundation if you have proper drainage. Suggest that you include drainage system under the deck. I have a poured concrete, stamped deck and have 3 drains built into it (just on the patio where it meets the foundation) that connect to my main sewage drain. So I can wash down my entire deck under the patio and never worry about water standing. I have another 2 drains under the deck on each side of the pool. Suggest that you really consider a drainage system built into the deck to ensure no standing water especially on the patio that meets up with the house foundation.

Hayward pump, heater and filter are good. Drop the inline chlorinator & UV system. Go with a SWCG and you be much happier down the road.

Remove the Polaris 280 cleaner as well as that requires an extra booster pump. Ensure you have a GFCI socket within reasonable distance of the pool and buy a robot. This will be so much easier.

Depths - min. 3.5ft as you step down into the shallow end. Suggest a min. of 5.5ft in deep end and seriously consider 6ft or 6.5ft. As someone stated earlier - kids love to go deep especially if playing games such as marco polo, catching rings, etc.

Plumbing - great that you have 2 skimmers - ensure they are independently plumbed back to the equipment for better control. So you would have 4 pipes for suction to your main pump - 2 for the 2 skimmers, 1 for pool main drain and 1 for spa main drain.
The PB does not indicate how many returns to spa - need to ensure what that is.
It appears they plan to have a second pump to power the water features. This is good. It should have its own suction to that dedicated pump and ensure valves on each return line to the various water features. This provides you better control or ability to isolate if needed. BTW, my suction line for my waterfall is on the pool side wall and looks like a main drain - just positioned on the wall. This way it does not pick up debris as this circulation path does not go through the filter. EDIT - you may want to confirm with PB the type of water feature as some have very small openings to create the effect. Therefore, the flow may need to go through a filter or a special pump basket to ensure no small debris can enter the water feature.

Good Luck and keep us posted.

Thank you for all the valuable information. For the limited space we have we definitely have to get creative and try to maximize the best we can. Most of the PB we have seen have come with pretty close designs given the way the lot is laid out.

I think I worded it wrong about the deck, I was aware that it would be up against the foundation but was meaning more about the splash up to the stucco of the house possibly. In terms of the drain I believe that our HOA expects a drain that goes out to the street, but not sure if that's a specific drain or basically a deck drain for excess water. I'll have to double check that.

I will write down all the questions for the PB and see his answers and adjustments based on the items I have seen. I definitely want to get more info in terms of the SWG and see which PB will be willing to actually work with me on that because of course everyone tries to shy away from it down here with the exception of a few higher end builders that would be out of my budget.

I'm no use in commenting about equipment, so I'll let others do that. One thing I have heard about those 360° spillover-type spas is that the narrow channel around the sides and back can be difficult to keep clean and could be a magnet for algae if the circulation in there isn't quite right.

I think based on all the comments and great points everyone brings up, as beautiful as it looks I think it might just be more hassle than anything and I should come up with a modern design without that effect and save the money to use elsewhere at this point. I don't want the headache of it not working the way we want and being just nice to look at with 0 functionality if done improperly.

Well Hayward equipment is well respected and used by many on this forum with regard to pumps, filter and heaters. With regard to automation, PB's are trying to rid themselves of old stock (read as outdated) so just like Best Buy, they push or put on sale the older models. As being the buyer/owner, you need to ask for specific model numbers and post those on the forum to get feedback - this would be for all equipment, not just the automation items.

I did not pick up on drawing that this is a 360 deg spa spillover. I see it now. There are others on this site that can provide feedback back on the needs to create a working 360 deg. spa spillover. I have noted @ajw22 to review and maybe he has others he knows that can provide guidance as well.

Thanks for the info on the automation. I definitely don't feel like dealing with old leftover stock at this point. I would rather pay a bit more and get something more up to date and do the things that we want for sure. I always thought the same thing in terms of Hayward from what I had been reading so I was confused when someone had said that.

Howdy neighbor! Some things that are no brainers if you ask me: SWG. I’d rather saw my arm off than not have one down here in Sugar Land. When you are lugging liquid chlorine every day from June-November or you are draining water to compensate for high CYA due to using TriChlor pucks you’ll understand why...TRUST ME. You need a good Automation system. No doubt. It’s like having a Blackberry if you don’t. Also I’d HIGHLY recommend a Chiller down here unless you like swimming in nice toasty Bath Tub water from June-November. Id also highly recommend understand what type of plaster you are getting. “Tier 1” may not be what you want.
just curious who’s building your pool. PM me if you don’t mind.
Thx

Hi Neighbor! I am seeing a lot of TX and especially Houston area members from everything I am reading. Because of this board I have gotten more into learning about SWG and seeing if it's going to be an option for me and also finding the builder that will work since I have only seen 1-2 that I have talked to that didn't try to talk me out of it and it seemed they were also the more expensive builders for sure.

100% agree with the automation. I am a tech guy and I like to have functional gadgets for sure.

I talked to a few friends that had pools and they mentioned a chiller. The only reason I might not get one is becuase the way my house faces i don't get sun in my backyard until later in the afternoon so I feel like it won't get as hot where i would need a Chiller. The other friends have yards that are exposed to sun the whole day which is why I figure it's as hot. Front of my house faces South East.

I prefer Pentair equipment but the Hayward equipment and automation proposed is not crud. The Prologic system is ok. Biggest complaint on the Prologic and OmniLogic systems are the complexity of the User Interface. Hayward has a new Omni PL automation that was released this year that does what the Prologic does with an improved User Interface.

The filter, heater and air blower are fine. The pumps are probably ok but you don't have model numbers. You should get the Hayward TriStar VS pump for the main pump. The feature pump should be a low head water fall pump.

A separate spa jet pump will give you the best spa jet experiences.

I would replace the Rainbow chlorinator with a SWG and change the Prologic to the Aquaplus that bundles the Prologic and AquaRite SWG in one unit. Or the Omni PL SWG bundle.

That 360 degree spillover spa much be build perfectly for it to function properly. The top surface must be PERECTLY level for it to have the overflow effect. Any variance in the wall height or tile height will have teh water spilling over unevenly. Many builders do not supervise the build during gunite and tiling to get it perfect.

That type of 1X1 small tile walls can become a maintenance problem. Tiles come loose, grout cracks and falls out. You have much more grout lines to maintain then if you use a larger tile. water leakage through the walls of the spa can cause tiles to lossen. As much as it looks good I would never do that style tile on large spa walls. And if you do it then make sure the builder applies a water proofing membrane on the inside of the spa like...

HYDRO BAN®

HYDRO BAN is the perfect combination of load-bearing waterproofing & crack isolation membrane you could want! Get yours today!

laticrete.com

All the LED pool lights from the major pool manufacturers seem to have reliability issues. Use nicheless lights that can be replaced at a reasonable cost and don't lock into one light model.

Or go with a basic white incandescent or halogen light where the bulb is replaceable at reasonable cost.

Thank you for all the detailed information. All of that makes a lot of sense and I will surely talk to him about the lights. I would rather pay a bit more now versus dealing with it Darn later on. From all of the mentions about the spa being that style I am definitely changing my mind and going away from this now and going to just a more normal modern style with a simple waterfall spill over.

Looks like I really need to find and push for a SWG system and see if I can cut costs other places and possibly a builder that doesn't try to get me away from it.

I have 1-2 more builders coming possibly this week and giving me designs and quotes so I will have a lot more to add and hopefully bug everyone for their thoughts. THis forum has already been a wealth of knowledge and really got me thinking about stuff I never would have before. Thanks for everything guys & gals!

 

[HermanTX]

Looks like I really need to find and push for a SWG system and see if I can cut costs other places and possibly a builder that doesn't try to get me away from it.

The alternative is to let them put in a Inline Chlorinator (about $90) but insist the plumber follow your instructions for all plumbing. The SWCG manuals have the need lengths of straight run in the pipe (for before the SWCG and length of the SWCG with unions). So just decide where the SWCG will go (preferably after the heater but before the 2 way valve on the return (2 way valve decides if return flow goes to spa or to pool). Buy the SWCG yourself and DIY or hire a plumber to come back and insert it. If you set it up with a long piece of straight pipe then it will be easy to make 2 cuts to insert the SWCG.
Furthermore, you can buy/make a dummy length of pipe with unions and have the original plumber put that in where the future SWCG will go. Then later just remove the dummy pipe, insert the SWCG (as it has unions) and hook it up to the automation. You probably come out cheaper that way as well if you buy it yourself plus pay for a second visit by the plumber if needed.
Note - I mention putting in the Inline Chlorinator because I assume the PB will insist on some method to add chlorine. If you can drop that piece altogether would be best.
Note - Keep that dummy pipe so if your SWCG has issues in the far distant future, you can always put that in to pull out the SWCG and use liquid chlorine until you can put the SWCG back in.