Thinking of making the switch to SWCG

[FnC80]

First off I will say that I love my stenner pump, and like having autopilot for the pilot. I don’t even really mind filling up the tank and logging the bottles. My issue is COVID and the increased cost and lack of availability of liquid chlorine. I can imagine it’s only going to get worse as summer approaches. I’d like to make the switch to a SWCG but the plumbing confounds me as my pad is very “efficient”, as in quite compact. To play nice with my automation I know I need a Hayward cell, and likely the extended cell for 40k gallon pools (my pool is roughly 18k). I even already have the Taylor salt test and my pool is already like -2500ppm to start. I’m sure I can do the plumbing myself, but need ideas on how to plumb it. There’s very little footage of pump between the heater and the spa valves. You can see where I have my stenner plumbed in. Below is a pic of my pad and appreciate all suggestions.

 

[mknauss]

You can go vertical. See if that would work between the heater and the three way valve.

 

[ajw22]

You also need to inject acid from your Stenner pump after the SWG. You may need to move where the acid injector is placed. Injecting acid into an operating SWG will ruin the plates.

 

[HermanTX]

@FnC80 As you exit the heater you have an ell at 45 deg down. Turn that ell to go straight up about 12 inches or so, then horizontal (with the SWCG) all the way to the return valve. Turn that 3 way facing up to meet the downward return after the SWCG (rather than it being in horizontal plane now). You should gain several inches in that horizontal run with this inverted U design. Just ensure you don't have a lot of heat from your heater vent - not sure which way they vent the heat.

I have been working through my set up as well and you have a lot more room to work with than me. Good Luck.

 

[mgtfp]

Good decision, you won't regret it

 

[Stenner Tech Support]

First off I will say that I love my stenner pump, and like having autopilot for the pilot. I don’t even really mind filling up the tank and logging the bottles. My issue is COVID and the increased cost and lack of availability of liquid chlorine. I can imagine it’s only going to get worse as summer approaches. I’d like to make the switch to a SWCG but the plumbing confounds me as my pad is very “efficient”, as in quite compact. To play nice with my automation I know I need a Hayward cell, and likely the extended cell for 40k gallon pools (my pool is roughly 18k). I even already have the Taylor salt test and my pool is already like -2500ppm to start. I’m sure I can do the plumbing myself, but need ideas on how to plumb it. There’s very little footage of pump between the heater and the spa valves. You can see where I have my stenner plumbed in. Below is a pic of my pad and appreciate all suggestions.
View attachment 173446

Great looking install!

 

[FnC80]

@FnC80 As you exit the heater you have an ell at 45 deg down. Turn that ell to go straight up about 12 inches or so, then horizontal (with the SWCG) all the way to the return valve. Turn that 3 way facing up to meet the downward return after the SWCG (rather than it being in horizontal plane now). You should gain several inches in that horizontal run with this inverted U design. Just ensure you don't have a lot of heat from your heater vent - not sure which way they vent the heat.

I have been working through my set up as well and you have a lot more room to work with than me. Good Luck.

I actually never thought about going vertical then horizontal for the SWCG. I think that would give me enough space. Does anyone know the exact distance between union to union for a hayward SWCG? Is there a flow switch needed even though it should be plugged into my aqua logic automation?

 

[HermanTX]

Does anyone know the exact distance between union to union for a hayward SWCG? Is there a flow switch needed even though it should be plugged into my aqua logic automation?

Suggest you download the operation manual online. It should provide exact measurements of your model for installation and how to incorporate the flow switch.

 

[FnC80]

I was about to pull the trigger on new turbo cell and flow switch, but I saw you only get the 3 year warranty if a “certified” technician installs it? Only 1 year otherwise. It seems straight forward, so why the technician? is this valid? Would I be taking a risk doing it myself in regards to warranty?

 

[HermanTX]

I was about to pull the trigger on new turbo cell and flow switch, but I saw you only get the 3 year warranty if a “certified” technician installs it? Only 1 year otherwise. It seems straight forward, so why the technician? is this valid? Would I be taking a risk doing it myself in regards to warranty?

This is the tradeoff in the industry. Pay a higher price for the product and a "certified" technician to install to get the 3 yr warranty or buy it cheaper and DIY and take the risk. Many people on the forum have done it both ways - what is your risk tolerance?

There are some products through inyopools that come with a 3 year warranty with DIY installation. You can review their website or call them.

 

[FnC80]

I’m pretty tolerant of risk on certain things, but given it’s not a cheap item having the piece of mind of 3 years warranty seems nice. I’ll look at Inyopools and see what warranties are. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[FnC80]

So I ordered my new t-cell from Inyo pools for less than other places and still has the 3 year warranty. I think I may be able to fit it in where my stenner is now. My question is, can I put the flow switch before the heater? I’d like to add the SWG after the heater then add my stenner after the SWG for acid additions. Does anyone see a problem with this setup? I’ll likely keep using the stenner for chlorine until I get my salt up to the ~3000 ppm based on testing then see if the SWG likes it and adjust accordingly.

 

[FnC80]

Any reason I cant modify my plumbing to add the SWCG and flow switch like in my diagram below? This way I only need to really just cut and splice in my components without too much rerouting and trying to remove old pipe from unions/ valve.