Well we have offically used the Pool (spa) for the 1st time. Once I get the heat pump wiring fixed and added the solar temp senor and the blower we heated the spa up and used it Saturday. The heatpump did great and I was happy with the heat up time. The spa jets ended up working without the blower once the blower got all the water out of the lines but we're happy with the blower too it's super quiet
Possible New Pool In Central FL
- Thread starter Tegguy
- Start date
Ok question....we are approaching 30 days which means I can put the salt cell in and run the cleaner. When I put the salt cell in do I need to add salt to the pool? If so how much?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
For you SWCG you should target 3200 ppm. You need to know what salt level the pool water currently has. Do you have a K1766 test kit? Once you know what salt level you have, use PoolMath to determine how much salt is needed. start with a about 2/3 of what Poolmath tells you you need, let that mix in for a good 24 hours, test the salt level again, then add what is needed to get to your goal.
I do not have that test kit (I have the TF-100) but I can get the local pool store test it
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Where you live you really need a salt test kit. So plan to order one when possible. You get rain and your pool will overflow. So you will be testing the salt level and adding salt as needed.
Up to you on the pool store test. I suspect they will use a strip. Anyone's guess how accurate that will be.
Up to you on the pool store test. I suspect they will use a strip. Anyone's guess how accurate that will be.
Don’t forget to leave the salt cell off till the salt is dissolved and we’ll circulated.
Took me about 10 x 40 lb bags to get the salt level up and looks like we have the same amount of water. Started with 8 bags and then added one every two days.
Ok I need some help I feel like I'm chasing my tail on the pool chemicals. Does it ever get easier? I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or not perhaps someone could comment. I attached a screenshot of my tracking spreadsheet that has all my tests (home and professional) along with the actions taken. The salt cell was just turned on yesterday at 60% so I think that's the cause for the high chlorine today. I have shut the generator off for the time being to see if I can get the chlorine down.
Looks about right. Now that you have saltwater you should raise the CYA up to 75-80. The salt gen will also cause the Ph to keep creeping up according to my test guy at Leslies. At Leslie's they use some type of petri disk that analyzes the water and gives a computerized feedback. I find it more accurate test to test that the original way it is done at my Pinch A Penny. It doesn't rely on someone matching colors. Unless you have been adding CYA, then it shouldn't be going up 10 - 20 in between tests. Keep adding acid to keep the Ph down. I was chasing the chlorine in the beginning. Was always at 1 or lower.. i shocked it a couple times and now it seems to have leveled off and I can keep it level. We also opened the pool right at the end of summer so we were getting a lot of use and rain. With the salt cell at 100 percent it was still riding the 1 ppm. Now I have it at 10-15 percent and it is keeping 4 ppm during these cooler months with less use. The 5.5ppm you have isn't too high. I have seen in the pool math you can go up to 7. It might be worth it to keep it there for a few days and make sure there is nothing in the water that is consuming it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,516
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You are yo-yoing your pH and TA and chasing them up and down.
Any TA down to 50 is ok. Stop raising your alkalinity.
Any pH in the 7s is ok. The lower you get your pH the more rapid it will rise. Run your pH around 7.6-7.8 and lower it when it hits 8.
Chlorine of 5 is fine. You don’t need to do anything.
With your SWG all you should need to do is add acid once or twice a week.
Any TA down to 50 is ok. Stop raising your alkalinity.
Any pH in the 7s is ok. The lower you get your pH the more rapid it will rise. Run your pH around 7.6-7.8 and lower it when it hits 8.
Chlorine of 5 is fine. You don’t need to do anything.
With your SWG all you should need to do is add acid once or twice a week.
Thanks everyone. I was using the values my interior company told me to target for everything. I tested today and the Free chlorine dropped from 5 to 4 but the combined chloramines went up from .5 to 1.5.
Should I leave my SWG off to get the chlorine a little lower or just turn it on a lower setting than I had it?
Should I leave my SWG off to get the chlorine a little lower or just turn it on a lower setting than I had it?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your FC is too low. And with a CC of 1.5, you may have issues. Follow the FC/CYA Levels.
I would suggest a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with your CC level.
I would suggest a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with your CC level.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,516
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
CC of 1.5 is not good and shows possible algae.
Please take a careful look at the FC/CYA Levels. At CYA 60 your FC can be anywhere between 4 and 24. I don't understand why with your FC at 5 you are asking about lowering it.
Anytime your CC tests at 1 or more you should raise your FC a few PPM. Get your FC up around 8. Better to run your FC a few ppm high then low.
So this is the first time the CC has been this high most of the time it's 0 to .5. I can reach out to my interior company or perhaps I'm reading the chart wrong. I also don't want to void the warranty on the interior either.
I'm getting the target values from my interior company book which recommends the following:
CL 1-3 ppm
Ph 7.4-7.6
Total Alkilinity 80-100 ppm
Cyanuric Acid Less than 50 ppm
Sequest 12 ppm
Is the chlorine drop test (FAS-DPD) the same test that is done in the TF-100 Kit?
I'm getting the target values from my interior company book which recommends the following:
CL 1-3 ppm
Ph 7.4-7.6
Total Alkilinity 80-100 ppm
Cyanuric Acid Less than 50 ppm
Sequest 12 ppm
Is the chlorine drop test (FAS-DPD) the same test that is done in the TF-100 Kit?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,516
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
How long are you expected to maintain that water chemistry? Forever?
That is fine for the first 30 day startup that you are beyond.
Maintaining that chemistry forever will not work.
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
So just an update as of 6:36 Eastern. I just re-did the chlorine test and got 4.5 FC and 1 CC I don't know if I screwed up the test earlier or what happened