Should I close or not? Freezing, but need pump parts repair.......

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Zwrickers

Well-known member
Jun 21, 2019
86
Louisville KY
Hi, I'm in a dilemma. I'm in Indiana/Louisville with a 27' AGP, and it's set to freeze at 30 F on Sunday night...But....I have been waiting to close because my pump needs 2 new parts and they won't be available till next week (when pool repairman comes). My goal was to keep the pool open as long as possible till the parts come in and there is verified no leaks after he installs them, so I can open easily next spring. But now I'm wondering if I should just close this weekend and hold off on the repairs till next spring anyway.

Another factor is that the base of my pump/cartridge filter setup is cracked and I have it propped up with bricks, so, if I closed myself now, it would be stored in a shed covered w/ tarp, but propped up all winter to keep the pump and filter level at their original height. I have a new one, but can't transfer it myself. Is that OK? What should I do?
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Thanks so much,

Kristin
 
Is it going to be a "hard freeze"? aka below 32 more than 4 hours? What is the current temp of the water in the pool?

I would close off the valves and skimmer and take the water out of the filter and pump until the repairs can be done then close.
 
Hi - thanks so much for your reply. Unfortunately it should be a hard freeze for 8 hours or so down in the mid-20s/30 F range for 7+ hrs. Water temp is 51 F right now.

Your idea is looking good - to put a plate over the skimmer and plug the return, drain the pump and filter and store it in a garage till the freeze is over (Sunday night through Tuesday morning), then since next week will be very mild (60-70s F during day, 40-53 F at night), I can have the repairman service it Wednesday, hook it back up to test it out, then close later next week.

Is the risk in having water freeze inside the pump/filter/skimmer, and by unhooking and storing the pump/filter inside, and, plugging the simmer and return, I would be eliminating any damage? We have a brand new liner this year and I don't want to mess it up if the water were to freeze on the top layer of the pool. I will also put the cover on.

What do you think?

Kristin
 
You can put a "gizmo" inside the skimmer hole. You want all water OUT of the skimmer and hoses. If you don't have a gizmo then you can use a raw potato (WHAT??) shaved down so it fits in the skimmer. Some people also put cut up pool noodles to help keep the skimmer safe. That danger is frozen water expanding and breaking stuff. I would leave the hoses open so no water is inside them.

New liner or any liner-if/when water freezes in the pool part do NOT move the water or ice as doing so could cause the ice to scrape and possibly tear the liner.

Good luck!
 
Thanks. Can I confirm - Don't I want to use a rectangular skimmer plate, which I just bought, to cover the skimmer opening from inside?, plug the return (I have an aqualuminator light but did buy a generic plug for it so hope it works), then detatch hoses from the skimmer and return? Do I need to detach hoses if water won't be inside? I think I might be missing something - sorry if so.....

Kristin
 
Thanks. I am so glad I asked. Now I don't have to go crazy-rush to close in the next 1.5 days, and I can take my time w/ the proper 24 hr. SLAM. It IS more work disconnecting/moving equipment twice but at least I will close knowing that everything is correct and working.

Kristin
 
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Hi, I just got a new base for my AGPs pump and cartridge filter. Old one cracked. My equipment is disassembled so I can put it back on the new base. It's a Hayward Xstream voyager pro cartridge filter, and ecco waterway pump. There are two screws that came with the base for mounting the pump. However I CANNOT remove them...they dont turn or budge....but they have a screwdriver head. And I need to remove them to put the pump in.
1605148085189.png
Additionally, with this base the pump sits a bit lower since it's a replacement, so I'll need to prop it up with something underneath (paver, wood?) so I might need longer screws. It needs to be connected to the filter at the same level. What is advisable for 1. Getting screws out, assuming they come out, and 2. Making the heights the same for pump outlet and filter inlet?

3. Is it safe to run the pump without screwing it down? I need it for a few days more before closing the pool for winter. I COULD just not bolt it, but only if this is safe.

Thanks,

Kristin
 
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has been the most effective way of removing frozen screws. Let it soak into the screws for a few hours.

You should be able to run your pump without screwing it down. Many pumps are not bolted down.

Do you have flex pipes or rigid PVC?

Post some pics of how things don't line up with your new base.
 
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Edited above to include the picture. The screws are brand new, came installed into the Hayward base from the factory (I'm assuming. There was no manual.) Could NEW screws be frozen?

I think maybe your sentence above got cut off - was it vinegar or an acid or something?

I have flex pipes.

Thanks so much. If I can get this all hooked back up, without leaks, I will be SO happy. I will finally understand my equipment more which I have been fearful/afraid of messing up. That would be big.

Kristin
 

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Zwrickers said:
Edited above to include the picture. The screws are brand new, came installed into the Hayward base from the factory (I'm assuming. There was no manual.) Could NEW screws be frozen?

I think maybe your sentence above got cut off - was it vinegar or an acid or something?
Click to expand...

It is a link to penetrating oil...

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You don't know what tool they used to drive the screws in.

Zwrickers said:
I have flex pipes.

Thanks so much. If I can get this all hooked back up, without leaks, I will be SO happy. I will finally understand my equipment more which I have been fearful/afraid of messing up. That would be big.
Click to expand...

Just hook up your pump and see if it sits quietly on the ground as it runs for a few days. Chances are it will be fine.

Don't let your pump get water in it if on the ground and it rains. Prop it up if necessary to keep it dry.
 
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That looks like a #2 screw but may be a #3....

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JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)

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Thank you. I found one more screwdriver hidden away in the tool box and lo and behold that worked! You're so kind to post. I just had the wrong tool that didn't get deep enough to catch. I have a lot to learn.
However, I just set up the system and if the wooden shims needed to level the pump so that the pump exit lines up to the filter entry is OK and safe, I think I'm good to go! I hope so.
1605152906907.png 1605152931440.png 1605152962349.png
 
You look good to go.

Check those wood shims every season and replace them if they begin rotting.
 
Hi, I am getting ready to close soon and just did some maintenance on my pump/filter. There seems to be some air leaking into the system because I am getting tiny bubbles in the return that reappear once I bleed the relief valve. We are expecting about 35 F temps tonight worse case, and I had planned to leave my pump running all night just to be safe. Now, from what I read here, it's bad to have bubbles in the return/leak in the system so I'm hesitant to keep it running overnight when I can't watch it or troubleshoot further.

Would it be better to turn off the pump, cover it, and not worry (water temps were 57 earlier today), or, keep running the pump regardless of the air leak (and another constant drip I can't seem to fix yet.)? I'm thinking to just shut it down till tomorrow.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Kristin
 
Nothing will freeze at 35F

Will you be fully winterizing your system? If so, wait until spring to determine your air leak.
 
Hi - You're right.....freezing is 32 not 35 LOL! I'll shut it down tonight.

I will be winterizing (reducing water level, unhooking equipment and storing it elsewhere). I still need to SLAM for 24 hrs and vacuum/brush the pool before closing, which I can do this weekend. Do you think that it's OK to run it for the 24 hrs of SLAM time while it does have the air leak? Or, could/should I reduce that 24 hrs. down to 8 hours or ??? hours?

Thanks,
Kristin
 
Is it possible to keep the air bleed off valve open just a bit to allow a small stream of air that's getting sucked in (till I get a new gasket where the leak is coming from) to escape, while running the pump? I need to slam and then close. I can't judge what is a lot of air vs. a little in the return. (Any feels like a lot). This wouldn't solve the fact that the pump is still having to push air which I know can't be good for it......
 

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