Pool is fully drained. Had to scoop the last. It of water out with a bucket this morning. Power washed the ladder, there was lots of algae on it. Power washed the liner. It looks like new! Never would have imagined my green murky pool could look this good again. My husband thinks the pool is more headache than its worth. All the money in maintenance, it’s killed our grass, kids don’t use it enough, blah blah blah. If it were up to him we would not have a pool. I want to fill it and hang on to the last bit of summer we have. This year more than ever! So now the pool is either ready to fill or ready to take down. My plan was to leave it up this winter to avoid the hassle I’ve just gone through. Husband is freaking out about the water coming from our well. Just went through the empty and refill twice so that’s about 5,000 gallons wasted. Now a complete fill is another 5,000 gallons. He wants me to have water delivered. I’m getting quotes. Only received one at $450!! Do I spend that to have swim ready water and have the pool filled to be ready to close up in about a month? Or take it down since it’s empty and figure this summer was a bust with only about 2 months of pool use? What is better for the pool? I admit I hate the thought of taking it down (spiders keep running out from under when the liner moves. Yuck!) but also hate the thought of paying $$$ for water though thinking I either pay for it now or pay for it next June since husband is in this kick of thinking our well will dry up from this pool. Any thoughts to make this decision easier?
Green pool.....nothing is working!
- Thread starter BPool5
- Start date
DAB942
Gold Supporter
Tough call -- here in Florida, we don't have to go through closing the pool. Do you drink from the well - deep, or is it for irrigation - shallow?
Not exactly sure what that means.....our well provides all our water. In house and outside. We are new(ish) to well water so not familiar with different types.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,384
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do you have a softener or iron capture system for your house water? Do your plumbing fixtures get stained from the well water?
We have softener and whole house filter. Something for iron too. Reverse osmosis for drinking water. No staining.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,384
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Can you fill the pool from the house system after the filters? If not, you will have to deal with the iron as you fill the pool.
Read Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading
Read Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading
My husband is being difficult enough about using the outside spigot I’m sure suggesting to him that we use filtered water won’t go over very well. As of now he’s insisting any water come from a delivery. I have one quote of $450, another company responded they’re shut down due to COVID, waiting for a couple more to respond.
Nothing to add here but in PA I paid 300 per 5000/gal. And I did it twice if that helps.
I had water delivered today. My kids swam a few hours. I just tested with the strip and results look like:
Total hardness 250
Total chlorine 00
Free chlorine 0
PH 8.4
Total alkalinity 240
Stabilizer 50
Company that delivered water said I should add 1 lb of stabilizer and then 1/2 lb shock. He said water was chlorinated city drinking water. Should chlorine be at 0? Should PH and Total alkalinity be so high?
After spending so much money on water I don’t want to mess this up. Is he right about stabilizer and shock?
Thank you!!
Total hardness 250
Total chlorine 00
Free chlorine 0
PH 8.4
Total alkalinity 240
Stabilizer 50
Company that delivered water said I should add 1 lb of stabilizer and then 1/2 lb shock. He said water was chlorinated city drinking water. Should chlorine be at 0? Should PH and Total alkalinity be so high?
After spending so much money on water I don’t want to mess this up. Is he right about stabilizer and shock?
Thank you!!
- May 3, 2014
- 58,384
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I don’t know why you would listen to a water delivery person. I suggest you start at the beginning of this thread and re-read everything, including the links provided. The information you need is there.
The only thing I would do immediately is add enough liquid chlorine to get your pool to 10 ppm, and add that amount daily until you get an accurate test kit. Don’t rely on test strips, also known as “guess strips.” For example, I don‘t see how newly delivered water could have 50 ppm of CYA.
You just spent a lot of money on water. You’re ready to take control of your pool - you just need to learn a little and get a real test kit. You’re very close!
The only thing I would do immediately is add enough liquid chlorine to get your pool to 10 ppm, and add that amount daily until you get an accurate test kit. Don’t rely on test strips, also known as “guess strips.” For example, I don‘t see how newly delivered water could have 50 ppm of CYA.
You just spent a lot of money on water. You’re ready to take control of your pool - you just need to learn a little and get a real test kit. You’re very close!
I have this kit and I tried it tonight but the colors looked too similar to tell any difference.
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 58,384
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So we know with fresh water only pH and TA are necessary. You have no FC or CYA.
Can you not do the pH and TA parts of that test kit?
Can you not do the pH and TA parts of that test kit?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,384
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Regardless, you need to start dissolving 40 ppm of dry stabilizer using the sock method. Add 3ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. Test your FC every day and keep it in the upper ranges of your yellow comparison test. Adding 3 ppm FC worth each day should acompolish that but let testing guide you. Use the pH and TA results in Poolmath to lower your pH into the 7's using acid, if necessary.
That filter on the end of a hose doesn't have enough capacity to work hardly at all.