Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amps

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DJConn said:
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
Click to expand...
 
Can anyone send a much more detailed or at least enlarged picture of the where the K1 relay is located on the board. I have the exact same problem as y’all so I will first attempt to check to see if the K1 relay is the issue instead of buying a new board. I can’t figure out which one it is.
thank you kindly for your assistance

Robert
 
It is in the upper right hand corner.


20170721_123547.jpg
 
For Aqualogic, K1 should always be in the upper right. I owned both an early version (1.2) and the last version (2.85) and both are in the same location. I believe Prologics are the same.
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you to all who contributed to this thread.

I checked my chlorine level this morning it it was .....wanting. Checked the display and as mentioned so many times previously I was showing too much amperage (10+). Thanks to this thread the problem was quickly identified, repaired with my trusty soldering gun and I'm making chlorine again.
I 'would' like to have a chat with the engineer who thought those plastic 'standoff/clips' were a dandy idea. :stirpot:
Oh, and my bride (of 48 years) says she has an idea what to do with the $600+ I just saved. :cautious:
Again my thanks.

Cheers!
 

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I'm getting the dreaded Chlorinator Off High/Salt Amps on my Aqua Logic control. Just replaced my T-Cell-15 and it before it shuts out I'm getting -40V and 10.08A. Thanks to TPF, I found this threads pointing out the issues with the K1 solder joint. A friend of mine that does electronic repair is going to fix it (clean out the old solder first which should make it last a while. While I could do it myself, I figure I should leave it to the pros. Fingers crossed that it does the trick, but it does look pretty burnt out to me. Just looking for confirmation. I figure the relay is a potential issue also, but fix one thing at a timeIMG_20210720_171648.jpg
 
I am having this exact same issue, but my home warranty is unwilling to cover the repair because their contracted service person said that the board is part of the zone control system, and they don't cover that. They do cover circuit boards, of which there is only one, but they do not cover 'zone control systems'. My pool has no "zones", so I don't even know what that means. Does anyone know what this means, and whether that is a viable reason to not cover the claim?
 
OMG. This forum just saved me $800. Had same high salt/high amp reading. Pulled motherboard back and found same relay with burnt solder joint. Re-soldered. Back in business 😊
 

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Thanks Ya'll. It took longer to explain to my neighbor what I was doing than to resolder the connection.
Working for now!! Not completely satisfied with dirty burnt connection and will probably end up replacing the relay.
I'll also rework the circuit board land & via while the relay is out.
Replacement circuit boards are now over $900 and the OmniPL Retrofit kit (if available) is 2K.
Time for that beer!!!
 
Well, I have a 9 month old Hayward System with Prologic Board and first I got the Low Salt warning and it shut down the Chlorinator. I didn't know you had to clean the T-Cell (Model 925 comparable to a T-9) every 3 months. Anyway, I cleaned the T-Cell as per the instructions. Even got a Stand for it and added 2 parts water and one part Acid and let it bubble and soak for 10 minutes. Then properly disposed of the water/acid solution and rinsed out the T-Cell multiple times with water. Reinstalled it and turned the system back on making sure it was set to the right T-Cell etc. Now it shows Super High Salt Readings at 6400ppm and 24.5 v and 10.08 amps. I have not added any salt and I am using an expensive Salt and PH reader which has been calibrated. It shows the Salt level to be at 2900ppm. Which is definitely not high. I did check the board as many of you have but didn't see any burnt solder points. They were all solid. So I didn't want to mess with a perfectly fine looking board. So I reinstalled everything and turned it back on. No change. This is a brand new system less than 9 months old. I called the Pool company several times but so far they haven't called me back. I will try and clean the Cell again but I doubt that will do anything. Any ideas?
 
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